Rob's S Chassis track cars. Now with more s15 and less 180sx

[robbo_rb180]

8 minutes ago, MBS206 said:

Is the time Attack on Thursday night, or it's an all day event?

Thursday day event. Plenty of spots left to enter 😉

[MBS206]

59 minutes ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Thursday day event. Plenty of spots left to enter 😉

Ha ha ha! Would love to, but nothing to enter into it with, or easy way to get something there.

At the moment I've got the work Hyundai Kona EV, and while I think it'd be interesting to give it a thrash, she'd be good for 2 hot laps at most before I hit temperature limits on the batteries.

And that leaves me with the swift, which would be an awesome track car, but it's not registered, and no easy way to tow it there

 

Unfortunately the cruiser leaks oil faster than a sinking Ship can, and Sarah bent the Subaru 2 weeks ago, so it's waiting on assessment

 

Maybe I should steal works Veloster, it at least looks like a race car, and has the exhaust, intake, and tune to match

 

what time is it starting out there?

[robbo_rb180]

1 hour ago, MBS206 said:

what time is it starting out there?

on track from 8:30-9

Work car would be fine, a few tesla's should be out there

[MBS206]

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

on track from 8:30-9

Work car would be fine, a few tesla's should be out there

BRB need to go pickup the PoleStar2 Twin Motor vehicle... 

[34GeeTeeTee]

Saw a couple of pics of the car on track, looked awesome!

Looking forward to recap video and updates 😎

[robbo_rb180]

On 9/12/2023 at 11:32 AM, MBS206 said:

BRB need to go pickup the PoleStar2 Twin Motor vehicle... 

that would be great to see on track

4 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Saw a couple of pics of the car on track, looked awesome!

Looking forward to recap video and updates 😎

Yep, got it out last Thursday. New PB on sprint layout by .02
No more boost leak issues so car is hard to get out of turn 6 again.
Tyres were proper dead and past their best.
Will maybe have video up tomorrow.

Will do a write up late tonight with more info and whats happening.

[robbo_rb180]

After all the fixes headed out to QR for Time Attack rnd 4.
Weather was good and track was good until around 10:30ish then too much sun and it went away.

Usual plan of using the first session to warm the car up and make sure everything was good. Tested the second boost table and was a bit too spicy around 5500rpm and hit map limit. Its pretty low around 250kpa. 
Checked all pressures and bled down to usual of 28-29 hot depending what corner of the car, no leaks and no wierd noises so was happy.

Second session I left boost on gate pressure and felt pretty confident of how car was so went for it. Was up .450 before last corner and I stuffed it by coming in a bit quick and the  tyre just being there and also on exit getting on the throttle too early and getting all the boost. A decent controlled slide but lost all my time BUT I did set a new PB by 0.02 so thats a win but the supra I've been battling rocked up with new bridgestone re71s and went 0.2 quicker than me.

Came in and did usual checks but did a quick change on the second boost map to avoid another limit.
Third session was pretty much pointless, tyres were past their best and I cooked turn 1 and under steered which knocked on to turn 2 with more understeer, backed off and tried to cool it all down but damage was done and just more understeer at turns 1 and 2, used rest of the session to improve dipper onto middle straight corners but not much to gain with cooked tyres.

Let the car cool down and missed a session on clubman. First lap in the next session car felt great, tyres were good into turn 1 and was up around 0.2 by dipper into turn 4 but had a decent slide on turn 5 and tyres were gone. Was around 0.5 off PB and with the track going away also called it.  Got to chase a newer porsche but backed of when I caught it as wouldn't let me past 


So after the event I was going back through the logs and noticed that the car was still laggy. Full boost at by 5000rpm, theres no leaks anywhere so went back through all my data from the years and found with the old motor was only getting full boost by 4200-4300rpm. This is weird as the turbo is a gtx2867 gen2 with a .64 rear housing and I expect some extra lag with cams..........
So go back through some parts orders and make sure its a .64 rear, yep all good. Go check the car and yep it a .86 rear housing which explains a few things wish I had checked that 4 years ago. Anyway I have found a .64 rear that I am going to swap too as would rather more mid range and can still make decent top with a smaller rear.

This is also in preparation for Noosa Hill Climb which I decided to enter as a heap of mates are all going up and would like to drive something different.
With that I have ordered new tyres to be fitted and will get the alignment redone as the steering wheel hasn't been exactly straight since the small off at Morgan Park. Also before that I wanted to corner weight the car to see what it really weighs and if there is room for improvement as I am chasing hundredths at this point at QR.

First time doing this so its been slow, started off with this


Ended up here after around 4 adjustments, theres a small amount I could gain with another adjustment to get a 52/48 front rear split and cross around 49.6%


Car without me and gear in it. Pretty good not cutting it up.



And picked up my new hoist too, went a Happ45 this time. Organised for a mate to install in first week of October


Got a small test day Friday to scrub the tyres and test handling before swapping turbo housing.

Edited September 18, 2023 by robbo_rb180

[robbo_rb180]

Got video edited and uploaded
 

 

[34GeeTeeTee]

Good watch!!

Not sure if you have played with different brake pads but with everything I have used over the years I always end up back with the Winmax/Circo pads! The Skyline and 86 run similar with 6.5 up front and 5 in the rears. The Fiesta just has DS2500 front and rear but its doing light duties in comparison.

I ran a Project Mu higher spec pad in my front Alcons and was pinching brakes everywhere due to the aggressive initial bite which may be fine for an ABS car or a driver with some talent but not for me! So I went back to Winmax/Circo pads.

If you want some options check with Matt @ Race Brakes Sydney and he might have some feedback based on what you currently have VS what you want from the car? 

[robbo_rb180]

6 hours ago, 34GeeTeeTee said:

Good watch!!

Not sure if you have played with different brake pads but with everything I have used over the years I always end up back with the Winmax/Circo pads! The Skyline and 86 run similar with 6.5 up front and 5 in the rears. The Fiesta just has DS2500 front and rear but its doing light duties in comparison.

I ran a Project Mu higher spec pad in my front Alcons and was pinching brakes everywhere due to the aggressive initial bite which may be fine for an ABS car or a driver with some talent but not for me! So I went back to Winmax/Circo pads.

If you want some options check with Matt @ Race Brakes Sydney and he might have some feedback based on what you currently have VS what you want from the car? 

thanks,

Yeah have used project mu rc09 and something else, endless me20, elig and initima, QFM over the years in different cars.

The endless ME20 is the next set I'll get, I tried getting some at start of the year but non were available for months. I drive a few different cars with them and they work well from cold and super consistent.

I generally will pinch fronts and I can't really tell when its going to happen.

 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

How do you find the Nankang CR-S tyres? 

If you were to rank all the tyres, where would it sit in say this list:

• Yokohama A050
• Yokohama A052
• Yokohama AD08 or AD09
• Hankook Z221
• Hankook Z232 aka RS-4
• Nankang AR-1
• Nitto NT01

 

[robbo_rb180]

28 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How do you find the Nankang CR-S tyres? 

If you were to rank all the tyres, where would it sit in say this list:

• Yokohama A050
• Yokohama A052- Super reliable and consistent, good for multiple laps. More expensive
• Nankang CRS- Great for single lap when pushing hard, sensitive to surface temp changes. Average Price
• Yokohama AD08 or AD09
• Hankook Z221
• Hankook Z232 aka RS-4
• Nankang AR-1
• Nitto NT01

 

I like them but I also understand their quirks........ Sensitive to sudden heat changes especially towards the end of their life span, need to get pressures right from the start. Don't heat cycle them too many times similar to AR1. They do wear a bit funny and I suspect thats from how they are constructed. Definitely not a 200 tread wear. The outside shoulder I suspect is a softer compound from the way these have worn compared to my old A050's. I have to run 4.2 degrees of camber so not roll the shoulder too. compared to the A050.

Lap time wise they are faster than the A052 over 1 Lap.

If the price difference in a set was $200 I would go A052 but anything more than $400-500 CRS all the way.

 

Edited September 20, 2023 by robbo_rb180

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

That's good, so budget friendly (ish) tyre. Might try something like that next year (hopefully) when I hit the track again.

[No Crust Racing]

10 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

That's good, so budget friendly (ish) tyre. Might try something like that next year (hopefully) when I hit the track again.

Quoted here for posterity.... 

 

[34GeeTeeTee]

15 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How do you find the Nankang CR-S tyres? 

If you were to rank all the tyres, where would it sit in say this list:

• Yokohama A050
• Yokohama A052
• Yokohama AD08 or AD09
• Hankook Z221
• Hankook Z232 aka RS-4
• Nankang AR-1
• Nitto NT01

 

The AR1 was good bang for buck being mid $300s per corner for a 295 tyre but I wouldn't run them again as the lifespan was much shorter than expected and they heat cycled out really fast doing Supersprint stuff. The CR-S seemed to kill the AR1 in the wet so it has that advantage! AR1 was deadly lol

Hankook Z221 is the tyre I've run the most on the 34 and at $2000 a set they still seem to be the best bang for buck for regular track users. For the occasional track day it would change things a bit but for heavy track use the Z221 is great!Currently in negotiations about trying A052/A050 but will see how that pans out and if it falls through I'll likely just put the C50 medium Z221 back on the car. The downside to the mediums is the time they take to come up to temp which makes events like the upcoming Bathurst event difficult as they don't switch on till the end of the run.

Robs 180 is significantly lighter than our land barges so that also plays a factor in tyre choice.

I run the Toyota 86 on Chinas Finest $100 drift tyres and its good fun haha... I have cycled all sorts through that thing but its a tyre killer. Am yet to run a proper R comp tyre on it but I think it will be a rocket when I do even with its 120kw of fury! The Fiesta is on R888 and they weren't anything exciting but also cheese cutter spec at 205 wide so I guess you can't ask much from a rubber band!

Anyway, not a tyre thread... Sorry Rob

[robbo_rb180]

So got hold of a boost leak test kit and tested the system..........

Air is pushing past turbo seals through the oil drain hose into the motor and boost solenoid was leaking too so that explains alot.......

So now waiting for a new turbo to arrive then need to cut off cast elbow and weld to new comp cover as new turbo is garrett based but another brand, not keen on swapping housings just incase there is differences.

Will update more once it's here but hopefully can get it sorted by Friday then can book dyno time.

Edited October 1, 2023 by robbo_rb180

[No Crust Racing]

Where there any other signs of turbo failure? Oil in intake etc? 

Cant think of when I've heard of boost leaking past seals into crankcase. 

[robbo_rb180]

On 10/2/2023 at 5:28 AM, No Crust Racing said:

Where there any other signs of turbo failure? Oil in intake etc? 

Cant think of when I've heard of boost leaking past seals into crankcase. 

Yeah at v8s 3 years ago had big oil issues with a slightly kinked oil drain hose. Found lots of oil in front and rear housings. With new motor put in a 1mm restrictor and new drain but suspect pressure pushed seals out.

 

Aeroflow and performance parts plus came to the rescue and sorted me with a new boosted 5047 .64

There's differences between the turbo housings so had to mod actuator bracket and rod. Lots of welding, cutting and tapping new threads had it all fitted up.

Couldn't get dyno booked so pretty much extrapolated the VE table down to around 2500 from 4500, zero base wastegate table and 20% second wastegate table and headed to Morgan park for a work event I ran. Kept hitting a  MAP limit at 140 kpa so raised to 165kpa just to see how far it went. After 2 laps stop hitting the limit and held 100kpa perfectly from 3800rpm. So just actuator being stuck. VE table needed 3% correction and went for another lap on wastegate pressure. One slow warm up lap and went for a flyer, took 1.1 seconds off old pb on k track now down to a 1.23:48. Car feels like it makes maybe 210kw but works so happy there.  One little issue car was smoking on that fast lap. Oil drain had cracked and leaked onto the exhaust so was an easy fix especially with a hoist now.

Did I mention I have a hoist again 😄

 

Will do a post later on about the weekend at Noosa Hill Climb 😁

 

[No Crust Racing]

Great work

Hoist gang represent! 

[robbo_rb180]

1 hour ago, No Crust Racing said:

Great work

Hoist gang represent! 

Thanks mate.

Been a hard 18months without one. Proper first world problem.