Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I have a s1 r33 . I have only spark and pulse on cylinders1 and 3 while the car is running I pull the plug on each cylinder and injector while running only 1 and 3 do anything.. tho I have pulled the coils out tested it seams to have spark on all coils also pulled the rail off an all six pulse fuel out. bench tested the injectors for pulse an resistance all seem fine the numbers were all the same 11 or 12 ohms i believe.. what could this be ecu? 

Any help would be good.. first time using forum so apologies.. 1st off my car starts..., idles ok but it's definitely not on all cylinders how many I don't no.. like I said engine doesn't change idle speed when I pull the power supply plug on injector 6,5,4,2 or coil 6,5,4,2 

OK, so now we're a bit more clear. When you said "only have pulse on 1 & 3", that's not true, and it was conflicted by what you said in your first post "pulled the coils out tested it seams to have spark on all coils also pulled the rail off an all six pulse fuel out".

What you really meant was "all cylinders except 1 & 3 appear to really suck".

Could be that those other 4 injectors are too dirty to give you a decent dose, the spark plugs are shitty, the compressions are actually really shit and perhaps masked by oil in the cylinders, etc etc etc.

We are not going to be able to remote diagnose this. I suggest you either take it all apart yourself and see what's inside, or take it to a mechanic for a little bit of directed and effective diagnosis.

When you pulled the spark plugs out to do the compression test, what did the plugs on cylinders one and three look like compared to rest? Did you put the same plugs back into the same cylinders after the compression test?  Have you tried new spark plugs?

You said you had power to the coils, use a LED test light to check to see if the computer is switching the earth at the coils. And/or use a noid light to check for injector pulse and report back your findings.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Meh, At 60 years old, I have been doing dumb stuff for much longer than you mate, I am the true King And unfortunately I cannot be a maroon, as I am not brownish red As for not getting ITB's, the plenum intake will apparently show typical gains across the board and increase induction noise a bit, but, have all over less dort than ITB's Cost difference for the extra ITB dorts was significant though, the total parts for the plenum set up is "around" $2kAUD plus shipping, the ITB's were $4kAUD plus shipping, I was contemplating really hard about paying the extra $2k for all of the dorts, but weirdly, some form of common sense, from listening to the platform experts prevailed  As for the NA mod hate by some, I've had a few boosted cars, with all their inherent issues, I'm now looking at simplicity and legalities for a street car, maybe I'm just getting old, and I'm quite happy to spend some of the kids inheritance, 5kw at a time 🤣 And think of all the money I'll be saving on consumables that something with boost needs, like engines, gearboxes, diffs, clutches,  tilt trays... etc. etc. etc. 🤪
    • Haha.  I wouldn't say I am either but I've definitely been around it plenty.  I'm guessing you know the dial in is basically to make a handicap to level the playing field between racers.  The car with the slower dial in goes first and in theory if they run their dial in time and the faster car also does then they cross the finish time if they also have exactly the same reaction time - if you go faster than the dial in them you lose, but if you are too slow there's a good chance the other person will get to the finish line first. I'm normally supporting other cars but they were all pretty dialled and were egging me on to race as well, here's one of the cars I tune (Starlet) which ran within like 1 hundredth of its dial in through the competition: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=inEBu-d9Gn4&t=69s
    • Where ever the fuel reg gets it reference is what I use to T into for map reference been a very long time so where it goes to plenum/runners I have no idea but never had issues. 
    • What ecu? Same shop every time? Same ambient temperature? If timing is correct then pull plugs and see if lean or rich. Dyno can also read different if they have changed ramp rate or not set tacho/speed properly  
    • I've never done dial in's just straight up, whatever that's called. I'm far from a drag (racing ) expert.
×
×
  • Create New...