Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi,

Just came across this RB30 block with a bit of an issue.

Not much damage apart from the hole in the block, any ideas on what caused it?

I'm contemplating welding the hole up and rebuilding it with standard rods and pistons to see how it holds out. 

RB30's are hard to come by where I'm from.

Is it worth it, has anybody done anything like this to any other block?20201022_183044.thumb.jpg.c1c7157a774b47fad4c5a4cf29b6cfa4.jpg20201022_183101.thumb.jpg.cbc287c3e68f90283ac83c083e23fb7f.jpg20201022_183132.thumb.jpg.9e2cecdf52e0bcecb6db5b183e66d8d2.jpg20201022_183143.thumb.jpg.bb5ee3a267299fecf6e27e12bd110305.jpg20201022_183201.thumb.jpg.b6d72f0b850b0d5e64ff4c8f7a39c13f.jpg

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481348-rb30-block-problem/
Share on other sites

I've seen (and done) old cast iron blocks welded up before and it can be done . . . . however . . . 

if you really want to save it then you should get the block crack tested before you start.

As GTSBoy states no point in welding up the hole if there is structural cracking in the surrounding areas.

As to welding you will have to find the best cast iron welding rods (or wire) that are as close to the parent metal in the block.

Then find yourself a specialist cast iron welder

You will also have to heat the entire block up to a very high temp over a long period of time and hold the temp there while it is being welded.

Then you will need to bring the temp of the block down very slowly to avoid cracking.

One method I have used for this is using heated sand, which you place the block in and let it cool over a day or so back down to ambient temperature.

Another method is to braze the broken piece back into place.

This is a specialist welding method also and will again require the above heating/cooling method.

Thank you PLYNX, I was hoping someone had actually seen this done before.  I'm a welder by trade myself and a welding inspector so I believe i have the ability and the knowledge to do it. Also I know a few welding engineers that will help with the composition of the welding rods required.

Crack testing here we come.

Be sure NOT to sand blast the block clean as it can leave residue in the porous cast iron which can affect the welding process.

If you are going to attempt the cast iron welding yourself. best to practice on scrap cast iron first.

As you say if they are hard to find where your at you'll only get one shot at it to get it right so your preparation work is paramount. 

Just out of curiosity where are you located ?

And looking back at your pics, my guess would be a rod bolt failure.

Bores being perfect might be a bit of an overstatement!

I'd be pretty dubious about welding this, the last of the guys who I would've trusted even attempting this repair used to operate a backyard furnace in the 70s and the last of the partners died about 20 years ago.....all the good ones here were ex-railway workshop it seemed.

If the thing is anyway salvageable and you're desperate, machining, tapping and gluing might introduce far fewer stresses. One Ayrton Senna, won a championship, running just such a repaired engine which had a serious  "alternator failure" at one stage.

 

On 10/26/2020 at 7:23 PM, niZmO_Man said:

He also died apparently because of a re-welded steering column.
I'd get a another block/engine/V8
or get a billet block yolobro

Ha, the prosecutor's line! ☺️ 

Surprise, surprise, story is online even, patch

Do agree, this bloke (in the US?) would be better off biting the bullet rather than trying to resurrect crap.

I'm not sure, I've been advised that its a 'race only' block, and its not suited for the street. I've been trying to dig up info on this but no-one seems to want to disclose. I also heard that some people advised on pre-heating the coolant prior to starting or some crap.

Another thing I found is that billet blocks need lots of oil pressure(dry sump) as apparently the clearances become tight when at temperature.

These are just claims I've heard, so I don't know how accurate they are.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • You will need to extend the turbo inlet pipe somehow, which could/might be done with silicone/rubber pipe, but might need steelwork, depending on your intake. And you will need to change the pipework on the outlet in teh same way, but this is more likely to need steelwork.
    • I see... Any idea how much fab work is required? I note the Hygear megathread but its like 900 pages
    • I should try the experiment you're talking about, the throttle switch is still there carried over from the R32 and it's still all wired up but after I did the whole intake manifold refurb and had to recalibrate the TPS I managed to somehow get the idle switch reporting activation at 0.22V, then when I adjusted it to 0.45V for idle it decided the engine was permanently no longer idling which caused some very weird behavior, closed loop idle was disabled so it would basically be at the whims of the cold start valve and whatever the base timing table was at. Then just unplugging/replugging the TPS with the ECU live caused it to relearn the idle TPS position and decide 0.45V was idle. Presumably there's nothing in the TPS that allows for the throttle switch to "recalibrate" like that, not easily at least.
    • Duh... to answer my own silly question, it's actually described in the FSM... ...400 pages away at the end of the manual, for RB25DE/DET signal descriptions, it cites the TPSwitch signal action, is dependent on the TPSensor value ~ this tends to infer the builtin POT voltage signal is the primary, and the switches are fallback/secondary should the POT fail/TPSensor signal lost (and switch alone with no TPSensor signal allows for base idle speed setting).... makes sense... they (TPS units) used to fail/wear the POT with time, they're not exactly built to last ~ having the switch as a redundancy gets around this...(or, it's less likely both signals would be lost as they're on different power rails)... and of course wrt RB26DETT, you have to electrically disconnect the IACV solenoid from the harness, to defeat idle air control...  
    • Dose is unaware just how much fun 145-150kw would be in a 2.5L NC MX5. It would be one of the most fun things to drive to ever grace SAU.
×
×
  • Create New...