Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, I am working on an R32 GTR and have run into an issue with the AC.  When I got the car, it had most of the AC components, but not functional.  I had a new clutch put on the compressor and checked the diagnostics on the dash and all seem good.  When I charged the system, it's not pumping.  Clutch is engaged and compressor spins fine, but not pumping at all.  At the rear of the compressor, there is a plug with a red wire and green wire.  Neither have power.  I think this is a high pressure bypass valve, but currently is not receiving power.  I want to know which wire is the power input and what voltage?  If someone can unplug their's and check, it would be appreciated!  Thanks!

I have looked at the diagrams and they show the wires, but not the continuity.  I just need to know which has the power going in.  It's important that I know which is proper as if I run power the wrong way, I may or may not fry the switch.  

Help me out with that, as it's certainly not clear.  In most wiring diagrams, the continuity will have an arrow on the circuit showing flow of power.  There is nothing on the standard Nissan diagrams that I can see.  It shows ground, but it's a shared ground and not clear.

The wires literally START at the 12v rail and run to the earth rail. I have NEVER seen arrows on an automotive wiring diagram. This isn't kindergarten.

Just follow each wire back from the plug (on the diagram). One will go earthwise and the other will go to a power source.

4 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

The wires literally START at the 12v rail and run to the earth rail. I have NEVER seen arrows on an automotive wiring diagram. This isn't kindergarten.

Just follow each wire back from the plug (on the diagram). One will go earthwise and the other will go to a power source.

LOL, thanks for the help.  I'll just figure it out myself.  You sure you aren't in South Florida with that attitude?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Thanks mate   It's all coming together finally. It's just a better racecar now and also yeop I've pulled my thumb out and committed and the combo seems to be gelling Depends what you mean by not much more haha There's at least a 1.19 in this My fastest lap posted lost 3.5 tenths in T10 and this was on 80% power and 5 heat cycle old tyres The next session/ lap we did we were up 4 tenths with the car out of the final turn T12 accelerate straight and going with 1 or 2 tenths to come from the power to the finish line and the shifter/gbox combo stopped selecting    So we wouldve had it. The whole thing..   Also repeated this the very next lap up 3 tenths out of T10 and same issue Add some news tyres and we good   Looking forward to a break then yeop WTAC and see if we can actually have a decent run  
    • Thanks,managed to find one from Australia.
    • Yeah pretty impressive hey, good to see quality products not over-shooting their prices. That's what drew me to buy the hypergear turbo, just a shame I've never got the chance to see it in action
    • Thank you GTSBoy and MBS206 I have done the compression test with the motor out of the vehicle, reason for the test was to see if I needed to remove the head and do rings etc while its out. I'm in the process of respraying the vehicle and tidying up a few things. Story behind it all is I've just purchased the skyline and it was running when I got it, never drove it on the street though as I wanted to pull it down and do it all up again before registering it. the gentleman I purchased it from told me the motor has a forged bottom end and has a decent tune through it but I was going to pull the sump off anyway to see if it is a forged bottom end. that's why I thought id do a compression test beforehand. 
×
×
  • Create New...