Jump to content
SAU Community

Cracked block: Steelseal? Any experience?

Jobi

By Jobi,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
Posted

Hello,

I finally completed the rebuold of my R33 after having spent 10 years on other projects. I'm running circa 550/600bhp, with many mods on the engine (forged, cams, twin 2530s, etc.) and on the car (Cusco diffs, brakes, Ohlins, etc.).

After only 1000miles, I now have a slight cooland leak. I tracked it down and...bingo, I have a crack in the block. I thought for that amount of power it would be ok but facts prove that...errr...no. I'm kinda gutted and I'm now saving for a brand new block, 86mm CP pistons (to keep cylinder walls as thick as possible) and a PRP brace.

Anyway, in the mean time, I'd like to keep using the car and have read one or two good stories about SteelSeal for that kind of problem.

 

Has anyone ever given it a try?

Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
  • Author
Posted

Tried JB weld. Worked great...for a while. Last sunday I switched the car from mid fun to max fun mode (1.7bar boost) and thrashed the car a lil' bit on nice roads. "Hello, the leak is back!" lol Or not so lol actually...

WantGTR Mentor

WantGTR

Posted
Posted

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
20 minutes ago, WantGTR said:

Where is the crack?

Works better if you take the paint off the block in that area. Clean well and apply jb weld dry. Drain coolant if it leaks while car is off.

Run chemiweld in coolant if you see fit.

 

Dont forget to send.

 

Crack is on the intake side, between cyl 4 and 5. I removed the intake plenum, drained coolant, removed paint, sanded the block, apply weld (https://sader.fr/produits/epoxy-repare-metal) and let it settle 48h before refilling the coolant.

It worked. But I guess 550+ bhp and cusco front diff is too much for my block...

 

That's why I'm now thinking of Steelseal.

Have you tried chemiweld on cracked blocks?

seanyreeves Rookie

seanyreeves

Posted
Posted

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

Jobi Apprentice

Jobi

Posted
  • Author
Posted
9 minutes ago, seanyreeves said:

also you may want to drill a hole at each end of the crack to stop it cracking even more. but that will depend on how much room you have and how visible the crack is etc. when i used to repair the gas network the old metal pipes would crack often and before fitting a rubber clamp to seal it we always drilled each end of the cracks to stop them getting longer.

Problem is that even after having grinded the block with my Dremel tool I could barely see the crack. 😞

There is no drip until you build pressure in the system. I've put a 0.9bar rad cap so far. Wonder if a lower pressure cap exists...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • niZmO_Man
      forum.r31skylineclub.com down or gone?

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      We will review wtf is going on, but if you made any donations let me know and i will follow it up with the admins
    • MBS206
      Pillar gauges

      By MBS206 · Posted

      See, that button sounds like perfection Duncan! My eyes really don't like light shining at them from a dash when I'm driving. Being part red colourblind, I've found for most cars that I can change colours on, I set everything to red, so my eyes see the elast amount of colour! I miss normal gauges in cars
    • niZmO_Man
      R33 rear seatbelts

      By niZmO_Man · Posted

      bro, knowing the Japanese in  the 90's, i wouldn't be surprised if they shared components across their model lineup.
    • Kapr
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By Kapr · Posted

      Maaaan so many "little" things  i rly hope my old RB20 would be "ok" and not too bad. I try to learn what and what not do i need. I look at crossmember at it looks different...even parts numbers are different. Wiring and all that i rly do not know...yeah someone mentioned the speedo thing. On that yoke clip. I rly do not know what can and cant be done "custom" so that is why iam asking to know and not be suprised 🙂  I know what it looks like  
    • GTSBoy
      Possible swap on R34 RB20DE NEO?

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Oh, there's also the gearbox crossmember which will probably be different between the small box and the big box, and the wiring loom will probably need to be modified, because the plugs for the switches etc, will probably be different. And I think the speedo on the small box R34s is from somwhere stupid, like the diff, possibly, so you'd need to work out what needs to be done about that (assuming it is different). I think the thing you need to realise is that the front end of that yoke is a large hollow tube with splines on the inside that mates with the splines on the box's output shaft. It is a dedicated thing - not available "aftermarket". They were made to suit that box, by the car's OEM.
×
×
  • Create New...