Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

So I’m replacing a few maintenance items and I noticed the cams are both off by 4 teeth. The car will turn on and run for like 30 seconds before shutting off if I don’t give it gas. 
 

i thought the issue might be the tune but now I’m not sure. Could there be damage to the valves?

55AC7947-29AC-4036-909A-79C70FFA37B7.jpeg

B3984533-0736-4C67-B2FA-9A0D45556C21.jpeg

It depends on the direction they are off if it may cause damage. A comp test with the cam timing wrong isn't very useful, a leak down test would be better.

I would just set cams to correct position while crossing fingers and try starting it again. No real need to waste time testing when you could just fix it and see

 

  • Like 2
43 minutes ago, Joey J said:

Working on fixing it now. Balancer is off and mark on crank lines up with tdc marker. I will update once done. Probably won’t finish untill tomorrow night. 

That’s ok I can wait 👍

  • Haha 1

Balancer looks good. When I pulled it off the crank gear mark lined up with the timing mark on the block.
 

Im assuming below is why the cams are both off by 4 teeth. Not sure. Between those 2 teeth was that crud had pretty much turned into a rock. 
 

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at the shop and no one noticed the timing was off. Is it possible it was set like that on purpose? I don’t see why that would be done. 

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

2 hours ago, Joey J said:

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at all................FYP

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

I honestly can't understand how the car could even do dyno runs........surely it would have had trouble revving out?

And what is the crud made up of?  road gravel? metal? old belt?

2 hours ago, Joey J said:

Balancer looks good. When I pulled it off the crank gear mark lined up with the timing mark on the block.
 

Im assuming below is why the cams are both off by 4 teeth. Not sure. Between those 2 teeth was that crud had pretty much turned into a rock. 
 

I don’t know how the car was dyno’d at the shop and no one noticed the timing was off. Is it possible it was set like that on purpose? I don’t see why that would be done. 

A51DECD7-AC36-4373-A75A-2722DA8DD310.jpeg

Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there. 

I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked. 

Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack. 

Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this. 

3 minutes ago, Blakeo said:

Hi Joey, I'd definitely be pulling the crank gear off and giving it a good clean (especially between the teeth so the belt can get good engagement) as well as cleaning up the general area down there. 

I can't comment in this case because I don't know what has been done to the car in regards to its history. But I do know my timing has been adjusted using Tomei adjustable timing gears, as my head has been decked a couple of times as well as the block has been decked. 

Unfortunately we couldn't accurately make up for the loss material with a bigger head gasket, so we had to degree the engine after the rebuild to ensure tdc was still correct as per the marks on the rear timing cover (they weren't), so the timing gears were used to take up this slack. 

Could be the same in this case, but I'd really be asking your tuner as they may have had a valid reason for doing this. 

Nah man, adjustments for facing head and block are a few degrees, one whole tooth is 16 from memory. One whole tooth is way too much

28 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Nah man, adjustments for facing head and block are a few degrees, one whole tooth is 16 from memory. One whole tooth is way too much

Ok, I dare say that's not the issue then my bad. 

I'd say OP is extremely lucky if it hasn't done any damage. 

Also Ben do you still have a RB or have you gone to the dark side? 

 

20 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

I honestly can't understand how the car could even do dyno runs........surely it would have had trouble revving out?

And what is the crud made up of?  road gravel? metal? old belt?

They had sent me a vid when it was getting dyno’d. Sounded fine.
 

The crud was dirt and gravel. No metal. Old belt actually looked good. No teeth missing. Didn’t appear to be old at all. 

19 hours ago, NZ-GTT said:

Exhaust valves could be bent but as mentioned a leak down test will reveal any damage. 

I hope that’s not the case. I don’t want to have to deal with pulling the engine. I don’t have space to do all that. I’d have to ship it to a shop. I really want to avoid that. 

 

I got everything back on today but I ran out of time. I’ll check all the bolts next week end and refill coolant, check for leaks and give her a crank. I had replaced the water pump and thermostat since I was there. The gasket maker says it needs 24 hours to cure.

I’ll report back next week. 
 

Thank you all for the responses. Much appreciated! I feel I’d be lost without this forum. 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...