Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I am rebuilding a RB25DET Neo (may get an RB26 crank in it) so need advice on crank dampers + cams + valve springs. Purpose of the car for weekend fun in track days/drifts/drags/dyno comps, but also be a reserve to my daily driver, maybe use to get me to work for 1-2 days of a week. I have 3 Holset turbos of identical fitment so can switch between them as needed, smallest turbo should max at 60 lb/min, middle turbo at 80lb/min and biggest turbo at 100lb/min, biggest turbo will likely installed only for dynos/drags. Would like a powerband thats relatively responsive around town while revving up to 8000-8500 rpm. Plan is in the future (2-3 years) it may be rebuilt as a stroker.

What is the limit of new OEM crank damper in either whp or rpm when aftermarket crank damper is needed?

If upgrading to aftermarket crank dampers, what differences in performance/fitment between using RB26 crank dampers like from ATI or Fluidampr compared to Neo crank damper from Ross?

Any camshaft profile recommendations best suited to my purpose? Opinions/experiences on Tomei Type A Poncam 252/9.15 mm, Kelford 264 in/272 ex/9.6 mm, or Camtech 264/9.5 mm or 272/9.7mm?

At what boost and rpm when upgraded valve springs are needed (Per Hypergear Turbo thread, OEM valve springs seems to hold boost of near 30 psi just fine, dont know if  current Hypergear max dyno result of 570rwkw at40 psi is on OEM valve springs or not)?

Thank yous for any advice, cheers.

if the proposal is to put a turbo larger than 60lb/min on it at any time then you should budget on replacing the crank damper. It's a reasonable bet that you'll want one for a 26 if you use the 26 crank - but don't trust me on that, as I haven't played with both to know the differences.

If you're going to want to make stupid power than you're looking at at least Camtech or Kelford cams with as much lift as the Neo head can be made to swallow (without shitting shims out! they are shim over bucket, remember), and at least 264° duration. Don't f**k about with Jap cams. If you're putting cams in, just put springs in too - especially if going for the largest workable lift and longer duration. There's no easily defined boost/rev/threshold for this. It just makes sense to do it.

Stock valve springs & Japanese branded valve springs are junk (waits for every American to have a sads) :)

Straight up go Supertech or Performance Springs or Kelford Valve springs in the 80lb flavour.

  • Like 2
29 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

if the proposal is to put a turbo larger than 60lb/min on it at any time then you should budget on replacing the crank damper. It's a reasonable bet that you'll want one for a 26 if you use the 26 crank - but don't trust me on that, as I haven't played with both to know the differences.

If you're going to want to make stupid power than you're looking at at least Camtech or Kelford cams with as much lift as the Neo head can be made to swallow (without shitting shims out! they are shim over bucket, remember), and at least 264° duration. Don't f**k about with Jap cams. If you're putting cams in, just put springs in too - especially if going for the largest workable lift and longer duration. There's no easily defined boost/rev/threshold for this. It just makes sense to do it.

Thank you for the input, to clarify on first paragraph you mean replacing with new OEM damper or ATI/Fluidampr/Ross damper?

25 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Stock valve springs & Japanese branded valve springs are junk (waits for every American to have a sads) :)

Straight up go Supertech or Performance Springs or Kelford Valve springs in the 80lb flavour.

So either stay stock on lower boost/rpm if go bigger get those valve springs, thank you for this.

5 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Stock valve springs & Japanese branded valve springs are junk (waits for every American to have a sads) :)

Straight up go Supertech or Performance Springs or Kelford Valve springs in the 80lb flavour.

I presume the 80lb is seat pressure compared to approximately 20lb stock seat pressure. With such an increase what's the effect on on valve seats, guides etc? 20lb does seem low though.

4 hours ago, NZ-GTT said:

I presume the 80lb is seat pressure compared to approximately 20lb stock seat pressure. With such an increase what's the effect on on valve seats, guides etc? 20lb does seem low though.

I'm going to be honest with you here, no idea 😅

Just I know with SR20 VCT motors, you pull the VCT super quick with stiffer valve springs, in RB25s however there's no talk of grenading VCT units.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • The more I think about it, the more I should probably go with a genuine Bride seat and rail set up. But damn the $$$ for a driver and passenger seat + rails!
    • From what I understand, stock internals should hold out for a while even if you run 500 at the crank, no? Especially if you don't run a modern turbo setup that reaches power and torque much earlier than the original twins. My engine isn't unopened either, it has N1 Pumps, head oil restrictor, new crank and cams, new piston rings, ARP head studs and Cometic headgasket along with 2860-5s. Considering everything is healthy this should run fine for a while I assume. Once my engine stops leaking shit everywhere, it'll be tuned to 370 crank first anyway, because I need to legalize the turbo setup. If I end up needing a new engine because my block actually has an issue, even though GTSboy was adamant that the whole porous block story is nonsense, before putting an engine in I'm probably gonna take care of the weakspots.
    • Hah, I have no issues with what you are doing whatsoever! You clearly know what you are getting yourself into. It's just funny reading things like this. "What's that noise?" "Oh, that's normal. That's just the engine not getting any oil. Nothing to worry about. It'll go away in a moment"  
    • Yeah I'm keeping an eye on it and might take it out as a once off if this doesn't fully charge. I did some research that said it's normal in equalisation charging. Voltage I thought was 20+ (faulty battery in multimeter) but now its on 15.9v, the max it should go to is 16.2v as per the manual. I'll provide an update once hopefully it's actually fully charged and in float mode. Waiting for it to go to 16.2v and not higher and see what happens. What I suspect has happened is that even though it's not an old battery, I did leave the car turned off for almost 4 weeks at one point then left it off for another 2 weeks which might have erroded the battery and is taking a long time to do this equlisation charge.
    • I wouldn't be using the seats a lot since it's on Historic rego and will not be driven a lot, however I also don't want to fork out 3k for something that won't last. Havent looked at BRZ seats, aiming for something of the same era I did speak to him on the phone once, and I do see your point haha. How many kms do you think you drove before they started wearing out? Just had a look at yours, certainly looking for a reclinable version. The Brides don't look too bad! I would still like to sit in one just to make sure it's what I'm after.    Thanks for the replies fellas. 
×
×
  • Create New...