Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Precision 6875 Gen2 .96 T4 open entry
Turbo has never been ran only been mounted
Selling due to changing to a smaller turbo
Rear housing has been ceramic coated in Titanium ceramic and front housing has been powder coated in Champagne gold
Also has Hypertune clamp flange welded onto front housing
Turbo is still mounted to vehicle and slightly negotiable on price also willing to swap for a precision 6466 T4 split or open entry .96 
Thanks

Screenshot_20201202-153639.png

Screenshot_20201202-153630.png

Screenshot_20201202-143646.png

Screenshot_20201202-143622.png

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481598-precision-6875/
Share on other sites

On 02/12/2020 at 10:18 PM, s13vert said:

 

Screenshot_20201202-153630.png

Screenshot_20201202-143646.png

Screenshot_20201202-143622.png

Looking for 4000 slightly negotiable on price or willing to swap for T4 6466

Seemed I couldn't edit original post and forgot a price sorry.

Thank you

Screenshot_20201202-153639.png

Edited by s13vert
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481598-precision-6875/#findComment-7944076
Share on other sites

  • 5 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Have you put an aftermarket oil pressure gauge on and verified your oil pressure?   Noise being on the block, on exhaust side, how high up the block does it seem to be? It could be the VCT system getting cranky, especially if it's mainly at idle, and when warm, as that'll be your lowest point for oil pressure. Could be showing that oil passages / VCT solenoid are blocking.
    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
×
×
  • Create New...