Jump to content
SAU Community

R32 GTR Power Steer issue

Dorifudo
 Share

Recommended Posts

Dorifudo Enthusiast

Dorifudo

Posted
Posted

Hi All,

I have recently changed my dash to one of Link's new digital dashes, managed to get the speedo and odometer working by using the S13 speedo sensor as they run a analog to digital converter and sends the signal to the ecu then onto the dash. My problem now though is that i feel like i have no power steer at low speeds, which i am guessing with the factory setup the speedo drive cable goes to the dash then from there sends a signal to the hicas pump( i have removed hicas) 

Unfortunately my mechanic isnt really too familiar with it so we are a bit stuck. Any ideas? im guessing in theory i need to get the speed signal to the hicas ecu?

 

Regards

Jeff

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481629-r32-gtr-power-steer-issue/
Share on other sites
Duncan Grand Master

Duncan

Posted
Posted

Really interesting how different people feel the power steering impact. I haven't had speed input in my 32 GTR for years and am happy with the weight. Yes it is heavier than a modern car but not unmanageable.

Sorry I can't help with the 33 GTR wiring, I've only ever seen manuals in japanese not english

GTSBoy Grand Master

GTSBoy

Posted
Posted

If the ECU is getting a speed signal then the HICAS CU is getting it. They're all on the same bus. (So long as you haven't damaged the appropriate wiring, that is).

The signal goes nowhere near the "pump". There is a solenoid valve on the front rack. That is PWM controlled by the HICAS CU to provide assistance from hydraulic pressure. It could be stuffed. Check for voltage there and see if it is still even receiving power. If it is not, then the power feed wiring could be at fault. I burnt that wire when my oxy sensor had a severe problem and damaged a couple of wires (they run in the same loom).

Dorifudo Enthusiast

Dorifudo

Posted
  • Author
Posted
On 10/12/2020 at 1:09 AM, GTSBoy said:

If the ECU is getting a speed signal then the HICAS CU is getting it. They're all on the same bus. (So long as you haven't damaged the appropriate wiring, that is).

The signal goes nowhere near the "pump". There is a solenoid valve on the front rack. That is PWM controlled by the HICAS CU to provide assistance from hydraulic pressure. It could be stuffed. Check for voltage there and see if it is still even receiving power. If it is not, then the power feed wiring could be at fault. I burnt that wire when my oxy sensor had a severe problem and damaged a couple of wires (they run in the same loom).

Something weird has happend, when infirst start the car, i would have powersteering for about 3kms then steering would get heavy and stay like that until i start the car again.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted
1 hour ago, Dorifudo said:

Something weird has happend, when infirst start the car, i would have powersteering for about 3kms then steering would get heavy and stay like that until i start the car again.

That's because the HICAS computer waits for a predetermined period of time to receive a speed signal and confirm all other sensors. If it doesn't get all correct signals, it kills all power steering assistance. It really does appear that your speed signal is not correct at the HICAS unit.

You really need to go into HICAS diagnostic mode and check the fault codes from the unit. I'm not sure how you're going to do that without the HICAS dash indicator to flash codes, which I guess you don't have with your new Link dash.

If you do have a HICAS indicator, there are tutorials on how to enter it and read the fault codes on SAU.

BK Grand Master

BK

Posted
Posted

Agree it mght be the only way to go to diagnose the HICAS now. That said, I don't know where Jeff lives in NZ but getting access to a proper scan tool might not be so easy for him. We all don't live in a major city.

I know if I needed one here I'd have to go 1500km down to Adelaide to find a workshop with one, because I know the only ones around here would be factory dealerships who no way would connect to any import.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • WARLORD
      injectors top feed for sale

      By WARLORD · Posted

      Deatschwerks 1800cc sold
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • GTSBoy
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • myrbgivesmeheadaches
      Ticking Sound On Idle - Rb25

      By myrbgivesmeheadaches · Posted

      Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
×
×
  • Create New...