Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all,

I have just been given a Pod filter and I was going to replace the tubing from the filter to the air intake manifold on my 2008 Subaru Impreza Rs. Currently I am unsure if firstly what sensor I am looking at is a mass airflow sensor and also how to reinstall the sensor on new piping. Sorry if this doesn’t make sense, quite new to the EJ20 and have no clue what I am doing. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481661-need-help-for-impreza-na-pod-filter/
Share on other sites

First point - you know you're wasting time and money, right? There will be no benefit from this except to make the horrible dak-dak noises louder.

Second point - what year of Impreza? They are not all the same across the 25 year history. Show a photo of the engine bay in question?

Third point - Here's a photo of a pod in an Impreza engine bay, as taken from a google search for same. The box between the pod and the intake pipe is the AFM on that model.

Advice] How to clean up my engine bay? : subaru

Fourth point - Here's a photo of a probably more recent dak-dak. Note that you cannot see any AFM. I think they have it integrated into the airbox on these. If yours is like this, it might be a bit of trouble to replace the airbox and relocate the AFM, which might not want to be separated. I don't know - I had a 2010 Forester for many years and never lifted the bonnet, so I wouldn't know where the AFM was.

DIY: Engine Bay Washing - YouTube

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
    • How old is the battery, it's more likely your battery is on its way out.
    • I reckon you'd get 90% off. My washer doesn't get between spokes very well. Haha! I love my Gerni!  Argh! Steam cleaning has its place for sure.
    • Hey all, I did a voltage test with the car (video attached) not running for 3 days. And here is some interesting stuff: - Battery voltage is 12v (I had the key in the ON position) - Drops to 9.76v while cranking then quickly goes up to 14.5v - You will notice there was a sorta slow start but not as slow as it usually is. - Idle surprisingly was better at just over 1,000rpm instead of 1,100 rpm. - I turned on the A/C, radio and headlights in the video and the voltage remains the same - I haven't cleaned the grounding wires on the chassis yet, that's next. - Battery drops to 12.6v when I turn off the car and wait a bit Seems like I might have a parasitic draw? I do have an immobiliser system which does drain the battery more of course but was wondering if there is anything else I should be looking at fixing? Does the ground wires on the chassis have anything to do with the low 12v?        SAU.avi
    • My lord that is some low oil pressure as minimum in the manual! I guess the big part will be seeing how it changes as the engine gets more spirited use.
×
×
  • Create New...