Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all,

Am considering taking the head off the engine to replace the head bolts.

am thinking of doing some preventative maintenance while I'm at it.

I am planning to make around 450hp and is used as a fun weekend car and also for some track days.

i want to replace the head studs, but wondering while I'm there  should i add some restrictors and a head drain? I have a catch can and it's empty at the moment, but it's only making 380hp.

In regards to the restrictors, ii was thinking of blocking the front and adding a 1mm restrictor to the rear. This is for a Neo motor (is the Neo oil pump considered an N1?)

also planning to get billet years for the oil pump and also a head drain. 

i don't really want to drill the returns though. It's it worth doing the above even if I don't drill the returns?

Also what head gasket would be best to replace? Just a new OEM?

It's there anything else you guys think would be worth doing while I have the head off?

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/
Share on other sites

Don't open it and let the Nissan out if there aren't any issues that need to be addressed. If the head studs help you sleep at night, you can do that but again if there's no problem to fix, I'd leave it alone at 450hp.

 

The good ol if it ain't broke don't fix it. My 2c.

Edit. If you are going to open it, do the whole lot.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7944833
Share on other sites

14 hours ago, Tobz said:

 also would I be better off ignoring all the above and just replace the head bolts one at the time and leave the head on?

Do this please, trust me you don't want to do what I did.

Also when you move to the billet Spool oil pump gears, you also increase flow (bad thing).

I took apart a fully working NEO motor, got carried away (was suppose to only do HG, studs, bearings), nek minnit built dis dat, ARP rod bolts, ACL bearings, blah blah blah.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Killed the motor after 2x track days, stock unopened motor did about 10+

  • Like 1
  • Sad 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7944864
Share on other sites

2 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

I took apart a fully working NEO motor, got carried away (was suppose to only do HG, studs, bearings), nek minnit built dis dat, ARP rod bolts, ACL bearings, blah blah blah.

yer i can see how u can get carried away!  i think ill just change the head bolts one at a time and nothing else.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7944865
Share on other sites

17 hours ago, robin schembri said:

You must remember if your upgrading your head bolts and the torque on the bolts are greater than the old ones you will put your cylinders bores out of round slightly. this may lead to other problems

Isn't that more an issue for rods?

I know it may slightly distort a little, but from what I read noone really cares it's that small

  • Like 2
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7945114
Share on other sites

Have done this on my previous motor, others have done it on theirs with great success. Most of the mild SR20s I helped build & tune all have the same methodology applied and have held together well.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7945115
Share on other sites

ive been running 23 psi on a stock motor now for 3 years, no issues with -5's. people get caught up on all this shit on forums and think they need to spend 30k for a strong motor...then put it together wrong and the 30k race engine is in the bin while the stock motor gets put back in and ran for years. sure in cases money needs to dumped but not at 450hp. I've seen this many times with rb motors and unless going for some serious power keep it uncracked...ill take a well maintained stocker over a sketch built motor any day at 450hp.... but that's my 2 cents. if your not smacking your limiter and over revving it all the time they seem to last quite long. usually poor maintenance and driving habits that seems to kills them. look how much power the motive gtr made before it popped. they tougher than everyone makes them out to be. have faith in your rb mate!

Edited by MoMnDadGTR
  • Like 3
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7945295
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, Tobz said:

Have totally come to my senses. Just did the heads studs one in one out. So leaving it unopened and in original working condition :) shouldnt be an issue at all

nice mate, little off topic but im fully convinced that use of a high zinc oil on the stock rb engines is also a great thing to do helps hold oil on engine components great for older motors i don't know about new rebuilt. cheers good luck with studs.

this is a link for what i use here in Canada, sure you guys got something better or much like it down under.

Premium Protection 10W-40 Synthetic Motor Oil AMO - AMSOIL

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7945313
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

@MoMnDadGTR we have Penrite 10 Tenths Racing here in Australia, high in zinc for limiter bashing goodness and 3rd gear burnouts at baby gender reveals.

Yep I only use 10 tenths in the skyline, but it in bulk when it goes on sale

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481683-head-off/#findComment-7945324
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MR HAMMER has said his piece. Painted up to avoid Rusty Rusty. Actually lines up well. (i.e it lines up the same as the unmolested GTR guard). Turns out the GTR Strut brace does foul on the bonnet vents ever so slightly. May need a little bendy bendy if intended to keep using with a strut brace. So spacing it out to clear the FAST102 is not an option. Annoyingly, the bonnet vents also foul on the heater lines running over the engine. Given this engine does not EVER require a heater, a delete loop is going to be used. Don't worry, the defogger uses the AC. The heater is basically "Do not use the aircon and turn the fan on". It will still be effective, I promise.... once I get the system regassed... Will have to revisit with unvented bonnet I suppose, and suitable strut brace. There's plans to do this and other things tonight and bleed brakes (there was a weep) and put the bumper back on, and take Good Friday morning - Because troubleshooting on the side of the road limping it home at midnight tonight is ... not very smart.
    • Thank you all for you assistance. I contacted Nistune regarding the support for the RB20DE along with my ECU Code (23710-10U00). They do have a map for it and added the RB20DE as a purchasable option now as well. They also added Malta as a Billing and Delivery options as this was missing. I was honestly amazed at their quick response and action, it took less than 24 hours. I also looked again at direct fit options for injectors, just in case I were to replace them. DeatschWerks seem to use a Bosch EV14 base and makes ones that fit mine at 440cc lowest, but also have 550cc at the same price. I tried looking for other direct fit options and managed to find one (also Bosch EV14 based) which includes a plug and play adapter on ebay. Did a small test with a Noid Light on the troubled injectors and all seems good, so they are pulsing properly electrically. One weird part is that they are missing on the same two cylinders as before I got the injectors cleaned. Mechanic also found this weird as he did not label the injectors and it is unlikely to have the faulty injectors be installed in the same cylinders.  
    • Nice, let me know how you find the 98 tune
    • Put a hand on an injector and see if that's what the buzzing is. You might be triggering the injectors by moving off idle command.
×
×
  • Create New...