Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Might be a newb question here mates but i am currently getting a slite bore and resurfacing machine job on one of my rb26 engines for 800hp with 6466, motor is a virgin.  it is out of an r33 gtr. i ordered cp pistons and rings (86.5mm), manly rods, tomei 1.2mm headgasket, arp studs. so my question is i know i want to run nismo bearings both main and rod, i just dont know which ones to order they have 4 different part numbers that confuse me. I just want the standard size as I'm going to use a brand new crank, unless the guys that know there shit like piggaz etc talk me in a different direction. below are the links for the 1. rod bearings 2. main bearings, but not for the centre cap bearing that is different but I'm sure i can figure that out once i know what do get for the other main bearings3. link for centre main bearing. thanks mates much appreciated.

 

Nismo - Engine Bearings - RB26DETT - Nengun Performance

Nismo - Engine Bearings - RB26DETT - Nengun Performance

NISMO Metal Main Bearing Center STD6 RB26DETT GTR R32 R33 R34 12261-RRR36 | eBay

Even  with new crank, Nissan measured and put in different bearings, that's why they list STD 0, STD 1 and STD 2 part numbers. 

Since the block is used you should have it cleaned then measured for tunnel straightness, potentially even tunnel bored. Ideally you will then measure the clearance for each journal of the crank to the block and order the bearing to suit. Or just slap a set of STD 0 in there and hope for the best, at least you are only aiming for 800hp not a big build.

  • Like 1

hey duncan glad you posted that's the info i needed. ill do it proper and have it cleaned/checked/what ever it takes to make it proper and not go boom. Was very close to sending my block to the sydney area but ive bought the prp honing brace and all the sonic testing tools to test the block prior too...so im gunna stay on this path with trying it myself. im not afraid to fail ive already learnt lots and usually just run stock engines as they seem to be good if maintained well to about 600whp with studs, but ive always wanted to try and build and rb and rev a little higher.  side not question if you have time, i want to step it up to 9.0.1 compression. to my understanding, small head skim and block skim, 1.2mm tomei gasket with cp 9.0.1 pistons should work without stamping my pistons to my head? if this is dumb i will just run the 8.5.1 pistons. cheers thanks again good mate.

Sorry CR calculation is not something I'm familiar with. I'd dummy assemble it with the 9.0 pistons and check how far they protrude from the block at TDC. I've done light head and block skims before with 1.2mm head gasket and not had issues but that is just one data point, not a rule.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • In a few years from now, you'll regret that. It'll eat away at you, knowing the truth of the ugly hiding beneath the beautiful exterior... 😛
    • I don't think the G2 profile is particularly dangerous for the engine per se, more just are you actually ok with the turbo lag trade-offs? If the answer is yes then go for it. I personally don't think I'd be ok with it because I spend so much time at lower RPMs and I really enjoy the feeling of being able to stay in 5th gear on the highway and just roll into the throttle to get boost. Or staying in 3rd gear on "gentle canyon cruises" without feeling the turbo lag too badly. The 525 pump should be able to run flat out on factory lines but I would bet the pressure drop from pump to regulator is quite impressive. I don't know how much it would be exactly but I've seen figures like 30 psi thrown around.
    • It's interesting seeing everyone talk about what level of risk they are happy to tolerate.  Building a GTR always has a level of risk, you could be that lucky guy that drops 20k on the engine build alone and still has the thing go pop on the dyno. Life is fun like that.  The way I see it, the thing is a toy to be enjoyed. I'd be happy to turn up the power on stock motor and limit the risk with sensible tuning and engine protection. If it still goes pop, it is what it is. The car isn't a daily driver so it can happily sit while a plan is made to sort it out.  Given this thing will be a street car only, I really feel it's worth the (relatively small if managed well) risk to turn the power up to around 350KW on e85.  I don't think anyone getting into the skyline game now is doing it out of logic. Surely it is a purely emotional decision so I'm not sure how important it is to think about the engine build logically. The heart wants what it wants.  @joshuaho96 little note for Josh, I run my 525 pump flat out all the time and through the factory lines without any issues. (excluding the melting connectors, that's sorted now. we'll pretend it never happened lol)
    • But the Nexus S3 is very expensive and won't be as purpose-built for the application as a separate electronic boost controller :^) More seriously my pet issue here would be that the Walbro 525 running at 100% duty cycle is going to require more FPR than the stock setup can handle. I'm also pretty sure from what I've seen elsewhere you might want to slow down the pump regardless unless you're going to come up with some way of upsizing the fuel lines coming from the fuel tank. Factory 8mm fuel line doesn't actually flow very much if you want to keep pressure drop down between the fuel pump outlet and FPR. If you really want to "keep it simple" I would run only as much pump as you need and source a fuel pump controller to slow down the pump in the vain hope of being able to run stock-style FPRs which are pretty dinky. Or just use the HICAS lines and it should be mostly fine. OP should also really think hard about what profile they'd want out of the turbo. My pet choice here would be the G1 profile rather than anything higher power but YMMV. I already think ~stock turbo lag is pretty bad so I don't want to make it worse. In "gentle canyon cruising" I found that I spent a lot of time around 4-4.5k RPM. I also recommend DIYing labor if you're detail-oriented enough. Costs are high for labor + if you do it yourself you can be your own quality control.
    • GTSBoy is again on the money. My actual advice? Sell the car. (really). For what it's worth as is, you can sidegrade into something much better. If you care about function then this is the actual move. If you want a Skyline to perform, set aside about $100K to do it. This is NOT a typo. You will see right away these are two very different mindsets. Realistically we're talking full restomod for any Skyline still kicking around. Have an honest think about which one you are.. and what you want to do, and how much you want to invest in this (with no return).
×
×
  • Create New...