Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Guys, recently Ive noticed that my radio is turning off for some seconds and restarting when I play around with any of the lights, like head or fogs. Not every time but especially often when I hit the high beam for a couple of times like when you wanna greet somebody.

Do you got a clue what could be the cause of such things?

 

Thanks and regards from germany

You likely have a bad earth somewhere. Or possibly the headlight switch or dip switch have dirty contacts.

I had this happen when an exhaust pyro gauge was dying. It pulled the power in the console area low enough to drop the stereo out (and then as it died completely I couldn't start the car). I wouldn't suggest you have the same problem I did, just demonstrating that power issues have been seen to cause the same thing you're seeing.

The headlights pull a lot of current. If that current can't get to earth (on the other side of the headlights) you might cause some weird voltage issue in the dash/console.

Hey mate

Ye even though Im not very skilled in electrical stuff, thats the first thought I had. I have to edit my post, its not only the car thats going down its the ignition. I can tell by the antenna thats going down as you know well too, and by the defi gauges that start the launching animation.

 

So how could I attack this problem now?

I'd start by checking if the common grounds between your lights and radio are clean and tight. See my link below and report back if you don't find anything. Cheers. 

https://www.dropbox.com/sh/jl8xtprmam0iiuy/AAAQn3fxW_-jiQPGOXX6bOyFa?preview=R33+Wiring+Diagram.pdf

  • 2 weeks later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I know you don't want to hear this comment, but I can't not say it.  I just can't see 200kw being worth the time and effort. Its like guys with NA cars, putting in headers/exhaust/tune for a massive 20% jump in power. Great, the slow car is still slow and you're down $10,000.  My vote is leave it NA or price in a gearbox upgrade and shoot for at least 300KW, preferably 350KW+.  Now you have a NC that will try to kill you from time to time and will be exciting to drive
    • Ah yep. The main message I want to pass on is, try not to get scared of ghosts when thinking about knock/knock detection.  What I mean is, healthy engines make noise. Knock is also noise. Your knock sensor and ECU combo are trying to determine bad noise from good noise based on how loud the noise is. The factory knock sensors and ECU are not good at doing this.  Modern ECU's are pretty decent at it, however I'd still say that you would want to verify that if your ECU says it's knock, that you actually listen to it and confirm that it is correct.  Are you familiar with the plex knock monitor?  https://www.plex-tuning.com/products/plex-knock-monitor-v3/ I expect you're the type of person that would be very keen to play with something like this. It is great knock detection and you can pop some headphones on and listen to what's going on.  Knock that you've deliberately induced in low load low RPM areas is not really putting anything at risk and is a great tuning/learning/verification tool.  I just thought this was worth mentioning based on the way you were talking about setting up a base map and the Haltech base map settings. There are better ways to spend your time then chasing ghosts and worrying about detonation in scenarios that it is crazy unlikely to encounter it.  I was also wondering, what ECU are you planning to get? Will it be long til you pick it up?
    • This came quicker than I thought. It ain't even 2025 yet.
    • I somehow quoted my post instead of editing it. I regret nothing.
    • STOP GOOGLING FAB9 MAKE BORG WARNER EFR KITS FOR THE NC. THEY PACKAGE AN EFR 6758. DO NOTHING ELSE. CAPS INTENTIONAL. THE BEST RESPONSIVE SETUP EXISTS FOR YOUR CAR, AND HAS BEEN PROVEN FOR QUITE SOME TIME NOW. IN B4 "BUT I WANT EVEN MORE RESPONSE, IN A SIMPLER, MORE RELIABLE PACKAGE" WHICH IS A LS.
×
×
  • Create New...