Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I run a 2way full time. All comes down to have you like your set up to be. I’m a little happy on the track with front brake bias high and steer with the rear. If you don’t like the rear being a little loose on corner exit just run a stock lsd and you will be fine

Time attack/track work I would personally go with a 1/1.5 way only.

I have a 2 way KAAZ LSD and I can say that driving my friend's car with a 1.5 way around a technical track, it's actually faster than mine with a 2 way.

The thing is, all 1 ways, 2 ways, 1.5 ways etc are all 2 ways, just with different ramp angles.

If you want to go down the rabbit hole, go asking for ramp rate specs on diffs. Nismo actually only make a 1 way and a 2 way diff.

I'd wager that's the same for most manufacturers.

The "1.5 way" people are talking about is likely the 1 way, i.e the 45/90 ramp diff. (45 accel, 90 decel). My old "2 way" diff was also a 'real' 1.5 way with ramp angles of about 45/60.

Are other 2 ways true 45/45 '2 way' diffs? You'd have to ask. As for what is best... well, it really depends a lot of your driving style.

Depends on which cam is selected.

kaaz-adv-5-711x400.jpg?resize=711%2C400&+

image.png.a5e406d3f3105de9383648936262b26e.png

 

I definitely can say my 2 way KAAZ looks like this (actual photo of my diff)

image.thumb.png.a2c438551d755822b16e52161fda727e.png

 

and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

image.png.e546888de035199f8d9a58ce4c9c772a.png

 

 

 

 

  • Like 5

For what it is worth the Nismo 1.5 way I have is so fkn tight it may as well be a two way.  Shits me to tears it does. Clunkety clunk clunk.

It isn't just the ramp angle that is key here.  The amount of preload on the clutch packs before you add the motors torque is also important.  Get much of that and the diff will be an annoying clunkfest.

@admS15That looks like a 1.5 way. Assymetric ramp angles.

What djr said is correct. The ramps define how much of the locking power is applied on accel and decel, (ie 1, 1.5 or 2 way) and the rest of the diff (the number of clutch plates, springs etc) in the mechanism define the breakaway torque. You can make a 2-way diff with low breakaway torque that will behave nicely without clunking, but it will open up earlier than you might like. Or you can make one that might as well be welded. Cusco have a range of different diffs that cover that span and some even offer adjustment of how tighjt they are.

  • Like 1
11 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

and my mate's 1.5 way looks like the below (not his photo)

image.png.e546888de035199f8d9a58ce4c9c772a.png

 

This is a 1 way 😛

Good example though! 😛

but yes when selecting a diff.. "1 way" or "1.5 way" or "2 way" is very much like "Stage 1 turbo". There's not really enough information there.

I guess they key point is, you don't want/need a diff that locks the wheels together under deceleration as that promotes understeer on turn in. If you are buying, preference should be 1 > 1.5 > 2.

Having said that the GTR (non 33 vspec) factory diff is a mechanical 2 way and can be readily shimmed for the level of carpark clunking you want, That's all we use in the race car and it is a good thing, thanks Nissan.

49 minutes ago, ERO54N said:

Hey guys,

Just wondering what the benefits of an open diff are when compared to any sort of LSD on track? Genuine question.

 

When you've binned your car and one wheel/hub is completely seized but you want to try drive it back to the pits.

 

  • Like 2
  • Haha 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I started with the above in my head too, and I might be reading / thinking about what they want wrong, which is why I complicated it a bit further. Purpose I'm seeing is for the corner indicator to be on with headlights, and then if the indicator turns on it can still flash. The relay part above I can see working as required, except in the case of headlight is on, and indicator is on. The change over relay you've wired in would get signal from the indicator, and as it flashes would give power to the globe from the indicator, but as it flashes off, power comes from the headlight, which would cause the indicator to be constantly on when headlight is on, even while indicator change over is flashing. That is unless we don't care if it flashes or not if the headlight is on? I guess that's an OP clarification.
    • HI, Ive got an r34 gtt sedan A/T. The instrument cluster went out and I replaced it with another A/T everything visually looks the same and all the gauges work now with the exception of the speedometer and odometer. The speedo will stay pinned at zero until I'm going about 55kmh and then it'll say Im going about 5kmh. my odometer seems to be tracking at about a 1/10 of what it should. If I go 1km it'll say I've only gone 0.01. Appreciate any and all help. Ive tried searching through the forums reddit and a local fb group. The only info I think I've found is that some cars didnt come equipped with TCS (mind is) and the clusters may be different between those? I've also installed a brand new VSS and no joy obviously. TIA. 
    • what speedo healer did you use?  
    • Certainly. It is probably broken under the wire style clamp. At least that one is easier to get at than the front one.   Sounds like it isn't a major leak, I'd start with backing off the the water feed and return banjos into the turbos half a turn then tightening properly. Hardlines can still crack over time, either in the tube (particularly when turbos are changed if the banjo is siezed in the the tube) or at the brazed joins between the lines and the banjo fittings. A coolant system pressure test will reveal all. BTW you'd be able to get a sump without exchange, it will just cost more as they will have to source another stock one for the next customer. If you want to address the sump a much better option is something like this https://www.hioctanedirect.com/hi-octane-racing-sump-extension-nissan-rb26 that you weld in locally (and add the oil return fittings at the same time)
    • Pretty sure you are thinking of the throwout bearing there (which you should change when you change your clutch), when they are worn they will get quieter if you put your foot on the clutch. An input shaft bearing is turning/noisy at all times.
×
×
  • Create New...