Another BK R32 GTR money pit...

[BK]

FU dead crank and bearings.

 

[BK]

Another fix for something that was bugging me on this car ever since we got it - the RH front indicator. Some genius decided to stick an R32 GTSt indicator in it at some stage. Don't do this as the fitment is terrible - it makes the indicator inner edge protrude about 10mm too far forward compared to the headlight, as they are not the same shape as a GTR housing.

Not to mention the orange colour is also completely different on a GTR one - the GTR one is a lot lighter. For comparison, zoom in:

Existing white 32 with wrong gts indicator:

My blue 32 with correct GTR indicator:

Just Jap to the rescue with an actual new discontinued original Nissan, not Nismo heritage, full GTR indicator with wiring harness. The Nismo one now only comes without wiring, as the harness is discontinued completely now with no replacement.

Gts vs GTR

[MoMnDadGTR]

On 22/02/2022 at 3:19 AM, BK said:

FU dead crank and bearings.

 

another rb crank to the bin...hope shes back together soonish. do you have a block for it yet?

[BK]

On 23/02/2022 at 11:43 PM, MoMnDadGTR said:

another rb crank to the bin...hope shes back together soonish. do you have a block for it yet?

Block is fine and will be reused, just needs a proper oil gallery clean out. Knocked out the 2 front and rear oil gallery plugs yesterday, tapped the block and converted them 1/4 NPT grub screws. Hopefully get the sump away to Hi octane today to be modified and already pulled down the Nitto pump and cleaned it out / replaced backing plate screws.

Still aiming for mid year back on road.

[MoMnDadGTR]

On 23/02/2022 at 5:05 PM, BK said:

Block is fine and will be reused, just needs a proper oil gallery clean out. Knocked out the 2 front and rear oil gallery plugs yesterday, tapped the block and converted them 1/4 NPT grub screws. Hopefully get the sump away to Hi octane today to be modified and already pulled down the Nitto pump and cleaned it out / replaced backing plate screws.

Still aiming for mid year back on road.

i had the hi octane one on my last setup mate. i went with this 8L leask spec sump this go around. took longer to clean it then weld it up. rebuilt with new seals and drill out the oil passages with a healthy long ass bit, done. The reason I went with the LeaskSpec sump is because it sits above the cross member still and you can still service your diff(barely). you dont have to modifiy your oil pickup height either. you do have to buy a Tomei oil baffle kit as well. though thats the kicker. comes with some convenient 10an spots for drains on each side of engine for your rear head drain/turbo drain/ and if needed a catchcan drain back to sump. cheers mate.

Edited February 24, 2022 by MoMnDadGTR

[MoMnDadGTR]

i had my buddy get it through facebook. he does provide the service as well welding etc. cheers good mate.

 

[BK]

The Hi octane one is not supposed to be too much lower than the crossmember at all. I've had a Trust one and they are stupid low. Not sure I really like that design above TBH compared to a Hi Octane or Lewis one, and the Tomei baffle kit is not as good as a swing gated sump baffle with their rubber flaps.

We're getting the Hi Octane cast version with the 3 swing gate baffle design as part of the sump pan, which is still going to be about a 6 week turn around time from Hi octane themselves doing the fabrication.

I have the Lewis engines 8.5 - 9L fabricated sump on my blue 32. Easily gets the front diff centre out and is pretty much level with the cross member. Has the 4 swing gated baffle design using the stock top baffle plate which is far, far better to the Trust or Tomei baffle setups. I'd get another one as I actually think his is the superior overall design to anyone else and reasonably priced - but Darren takes ages, doesn't answer his phone and hardly replies to emails so getting one is a full on mission.

My last sump from Darren was nearly a six month wait, but it is good and he is very good at what he does.

[alexj]

 

Since its being discussed, here's a few pics of the hioctane sump extension going on my car this week to replace the RIPS sump it had.

Hoping the swing gates and bit of extra depth will control the oil surge a bit better. To trust sump was worked perfectly by too little ground clearance for me in the long run.

[MoMnDadGTR]

On 24/02/2022 at 5:28 PM, BK said:

The Hi octane one is not supposed to be too much lower than the crossmember at all. I've had a Trust one and they are stupid low. Not sure I really like that design above TBH compared to a Hi Octane or Lewis one, and the Tomei baffle kit is not as good as a swing gated sump baffle with their rubber flaps.

We're getting the Hi Octane cast version with the 3 swing gate baffle design as part of the sump pan, which is still going to be about a 6 week turn around time from Hi octane themselves doing the fabrication.

I have the Lewis engines 8.5 - 9L fabricated sump on my blue 32. Easily gets the front diff centre out and is pretty much level with the cross member. Has the 4 swing gated baffle design using the stock top baffle plate which is far, far better to the Trust or Tomei baffle setups. I'd get another one as I actually think his is the superior overall design to anyone else and reasonably priced - but Darren takes ages, doesn't answer his phone and hardly replies to emails so getting one is a full on mission.

My last sump from Darren was nearly a six month wait, but it is good and he is very good at what he does.

Yeah that’s a beefy sump Mate. I wouldn’t dare disagree with someone of your knowledge hell you helped me with most my car in the nitty griddy and appreciative every time I fire her up. That being said I do like the way how tucked the leaskspec sump is. Each to there own tho forsure that sump you have looks solid as hell and like you stated swing gate baffles. Here is a picture of my sump finished. It was a big deal for me to have the sump nice and tucked as my wife drives the car often and our roads are fricken awful. I would like to make My own baffles with gates likes yours. Cheers buddy.

[BK]

Well you definitely have ground clearance with that.

Used to think this was on the great on the 32, but it seems a completely pointless modification now

 

Too low, not swing gated and really doesn't add enough extra capacity for the effort and cost.

 

[Duncan]

Yeah I used to run the trust sump on the race car but you just cant have anything below the cross member for race/rally use. I hit it so hard on the curbs at Oran Park that I knocked the sump plug out and cracked it in multiple places.

I also use the high octane one now and even in the recent off road excursion there was no damage to the sump

[MoMnDadGTR]

On 25/02/2022 at 7:06 PM, BK said:

Well you definitely have ground clearance with that.

Used to think this was on the great on the 32, but it seems a completely pointless modification now

 

Too low, not swing gated and really doesn't add enough extra capacity for the effort and cost.

 

yeah those sumps are bin worthy for sure mate. after dialing the tig i feel like a wanker for not building my own sump extensions with its own baffle gate system. i could of made something better/bigger. all aside mate hope the build goes well, im just itching to drive the gtr we have 6 feet of snow and was -49 celcius today. bunged.

[alexj]

Reassuring to hear you rate the hioctane sump Duncan - no one in the uk has heard of them as far as i can tell.

The RIPS sump is shallow and safely tucked and it does seem to fix the straightline oil surge you get with a stock sump but I was still getting oil pressure drops in long, high g, high rev left handers.

My ecu has a very conservative oil pressure cut set up so I've not had a failure with the RIPS sump yet, but I does hit the ecu cut occasionally once the oil's hot and the boost is turned up.

The Trust sump actually seemed to work better in that respect but you could see it was just a matter or time until you run a sausage curb at the wrong angle and rip it off. Hopefully the hioctane cast sump is a good mix of the two; decent capacity, a bit deep, with flappy gates.

[BK]

A few updates are in for this one on progress-

Sump finally arrived at Hi Octane to be modified and bottom end parts from Golebys have arrived along with the turbo.

In the end went with the Precision ball bearing PT6266 CEA with S ported compressor and T4 divided 0.84 a/r turbine housing, so goodbye Trust T78-29D.

[Shoota_77]

On 09/03/2022 at 2:51 PM, BK said:

A few updates are in for this one on progress-

Sump finally arrived at Hi Octane to be modified and bottom end parts from Golebys have arrived along with the turbo.

In the end went with the Precision ball bearing PT6266 CEA with S ported compressor and T4 divided 0.84 a/r turbine housing, so goodbye Trust T78-29D.

Welcome to the 2020's!  Should be an awesome car with the 6266.  I think it's a well balanced turbo with good response at the sacrifice of a bit of top end (which apart from Insta who cares...).  What are you hoping/expecting power wise, around 400-450kW or are they pushing more now?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Just run an oil filter and an oil pressure regulator for the turbo and enjoy many years of fun. At least it won't spit out turbine wheels if you run too much boost or run them on a hot day or hit the limiter or yell at your car.

[BK]

On 10/03/2022 at 7:19 AM, Shoota_77 said:

Welcome to the 2020's!  Should be an awesome car with the 6266.  I think it's a well balanced turbo with good response at the sacrifice of a bit of top end (which apart from Insta who cares...).  What are you hoping/expecting power wise, around 400-450kW or are they pushing more now?

Well since my blue 32 with the 2.8 is doing 460kw on 98 at 22psi and 610kw on E85 at 32psi with the 6466, I would expect on the 2.6 with the 6266 to do about 400kw on 98 and up to 500kw on E85 at similar boost levels. Definitely won't have the top end of the 6466 but would expect at least 130mph on the 1/4.

On 10/03/2022 at 8:00 AM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Just run an oil filter and an oil pressure regulator for the turbo and enjoy many years of fun. At least it won't spit out turbine wheels if you run too much boost or run them on a hot day or hit the limiter or yell at your car.

That's a definite on the oil feed filter and do that already, but I'm not completely sold you NEED an oil pressure regulator. I don't with the 6466 on high oil pressure with a Nitto pump. I've defintely looked into it, but I think you'll find most problems are caused by undersized turbo oil returns rather than too much pressure and is the cause of most Precision turbo hate.

Look at anyone running an AN10 braided return and that is far too small under even normal conditions, as the inside hole size at the end of a male AN10 flare fitting is smaller than the turbos oil drain port. Needs to be minimum AN12 and even then is only just adequate once fittings are introduced which are smaller than the ID of the hose size - AN12 line is about 17mm tube ID and AN10 is around 13mm ID, and that's before the 1-2mm reduction in ID size from fittings.

This is the main reason I don't run braided drains. I use a 3/4" / 19mm hardpipe barb drain fitting on turbo and into block on the front a 3/4bsp barb fitting return, as its still bigger than even an AN12 male fitting inside. A 3/4 barb fitting is at least 17mm ID, which ends up being the smallest part of the oil drain setup. Doesn't look as cool but it definitely works.

Precision recommends minimum 5/8" ID oil return which is nearly 16mm internal hole size, which most people do not have when braided hose is installed for an oil drain line.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

All valid points as listed, however (this is just my opinion) since the turbo is off and all, it's not a huge investment to have your oil pressure always fixed for the turbo.

I would imagine the seals would prefer that rather than varying pressure.

When my 2nd motor went in, I got the guys at Birrong to install the OPR right after the oil feed and then have it drained back into the sump on the turbo oil return. Just makes the engine bay look a tad neater  

[BK]

On 10/03/2022 at 12:32 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

All valid points as listed, however (this is just my opinion) since the turbo is off and all, it's not a huge investment to have your oil pressure always fixed for the turbo.

I would imagine the seals would prefer that rather than varying pressure.

When my 2nd motor went in, I got the guys at Birrong to install the OPR right after the oil feed and then have it drained back into the sump on the turbo oil return. Just makes the engine bay look a tad neater  

So are you saying your actual turbo drain and OPR big bypass drain share the same return ? If so that would be a big no no.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

On 10/03/2022 at 2:06 PM, BK said:

So are you saying your actual turbo drain and OPR big bypass drain share the same return ? If so that would be a big no no.

at the moment yes, and so far (from the very limited driving) there hasn't been any issues yet - time will tell.

It's a -12 return.

BK is now patiently waiting for a new thread "Just blew my turbo, should I go G40-900 or 6266?"

LOL