Another BK R32 GTR money pit...

[Komdotkom]

Hi mate, my point was more that reluctors are generally very reliable; probably more than hall sensors particularly with high tooth counts. With that in mind I would suggest that your issue is likely to be wiring/setup based rather than a fault with the reluctor itself.

As rpm/triggers increase so does the amplitude of the waveform from the reluctor but as you've pointed out the voltages can be very low at cranking RPM. I think once you run a ref/sync trace on it you'll know what the problem is and how to address it.

With respect to tooth counts on crank triggers, I would prefer to run a missing tooth configuration if I'm spending the money anyway so I wasn't happy with the standard 12 tooth from Ross. They make nice gear though, I've got their dry sump setup and it's very well made.

[BK]

3 hours ago, Komdotkom said:

Hi mate, my point was more that reluctors are generally very reliable; probably more than hall sensors particularly with high tooth counts. With that in mind I would suggest that your issue is likely to be wiring/setup based rather than a fault with the reluctor itself.

As rpm/triggers increase so does the amplitude of the waveform from the reluctor but as you've pointed out the voltages can be very low at cranking RPM. I think once you run a ref/sync trace on it you'll know what the problem is and how to address it.

With respect to tooth counts on crank triggers, I would prefer to run a missing tooth configuration if I'm spending the money anyway so I wasn't happy with the standard 12 tooth from Ross. They make nice gear though, I've got their dry sump setup and it's very well made.

Yeah I completely agree with everything, but I will reinforce reluctors definitely require very small sensor to tooth height gaps ideally well under 0.5mm. Ross do also have the 36-2 missing tooth count versions which work with hall effect for more resolution over the 12t, but yeah if you want to run something like a 60 tooth a reluctor seems to be the only option there as you mentioned. For the single tooth cam home signal though a reluctor really offers no advantages over a hall effect.

On another note I think I made progress last night with the cam trigger setup though. I will elaborate later, but it seems to be more related overfuelling on cranking at over 70c.

[BK]

18 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Maybe just for the sake of it, update your firmware.

I noticed you're using not the latest firmware.

On the Nexus 3 firmware and NSP software now. Can you post your fuel prime pulse and fuel cranking tables for me ? I think this thing has been massively over fuelling on crank at over 70c as I've had to dramatically reduce both of the tables, more so than I would expect to be normal.

In the wiring department the ground has been changed back to the cas pin 4 wire and signal ground B14 pin. The signal + was changed to cas pin 2 wire and terminated at B1 Trigger + too just to rule out the signal + wire fault.

I'm really starting to think I haven't been chasing an electrical signal fault at all and the overfuelling at 70c + has been stalling the engine creating inconsistent cranking in turn upsetting the low cranking voltage signal.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Still needs work, but on a 15 degree day it starts by the 2nd crank

 

[BK]

12 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Still needs work, but on a 15 degree day it starts by the 2nd crank

 

Cheers dude. Yeah that looks a little closer to my blue 32 sort of coolant temp vs fuel decrease, but on this car with the cranking and prime pulse I'm having to drop this shit down into the 30 - 40% region after 70c to not flood the engine. At 80% even it seems to start to stall the engine cranking speed. It seems like a fairly dramitic reduction to me to have to do. Haven't really needed to touch post start as once the engine fires all is well.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

How is your base fuel map too? I've been told that needs to be dialled in properly as well (a bit hard trying to dial in fuel for a motor that's not running).

This is my base fuel table, noting that I didn't not use a ethanol 4th dimension and relying on the calculations by the Haltech's inbuilt flex fuel table.

Ignore the big dip around the idle area, I enabled VCT from idle and also pulled out heaps of timing to give it a silly brap idle lolololol.

[BK]

57 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

How is your base fuel map too? I've been told that needs to be dialled in properly as well (a bit hard trying to dial in fuel for a motor that's not running).

This is my base fuel table, noting that I didn't not use a ethanol 4th dimension and relying on the calculations by the Haltech's inbuilt flex fuel table.

Ignore the big dip around the idle area, I enabled VCT from idle and also pulled out heaps of timing to give it a silly brap idle lolololol.

Been letting the ltft sort out the low load low rpm stuff and applying as necessary. Base fuel map though should have nothing to do with fuel at cranking as that's what the prime pulse and cranking tables are supposed to be for. They are not correction tables - they are the cranking fuel references.

Are you finding the base table affecting cranking fuel ?

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

3 minutes ago, BK said:

Been letting the ltft sort out the low load low rpm stuff and applying as necessary. Base fuel map though should have nothing to do with fuel at cranking as that's what the prime pulse and cranking tables are supposed to be for. They are not correction tables - they are the cranking fuel references.

I thought this too, until I read this:

https://www.hpacademy.com/technical-articles/cold-starting/

Scroll down a bit to the Elite 2500 screenshots.

[robbo_rb180]

Base fuel has to be right.
All cranking, IAT, ECT are all corrections or multipliers of the base fuel map. This goes for Ignition and boost tables too 

I thought with my trigger kit there was issues on cold start/cranking rpm but was Cranking and Prime fuel tables being off between 10-30C
 

[BK]

1 hour ago, robbo_rb180 said:

Base fuel has to be right.
All cranking, IAT, ECT are all corrections or multipliers of the base fuel map. This goes for Ignition and boost tables too 

I thought with my trigger kit there was issues on cold start/cranking rpm but was Cranking and Prime fuel tables being off between 10-30C
 

Yeah well mines been the other way around with off values at 70+, no dramas cold.The strangest shit is happening here right now on the NSP, the Nexus 3.7.1 firmware has changed everything. I'm finding me going back to nearly the same starting point values on cranking, pulse prime and base fuel map when on the older software. Msybe it has been a firmware problem all along which was screwing with my hot cranking values

[BK]

On 22/12/2022 at 5:37 PM, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

Maybe just for the sake of it, update your firmware.

I noticed you're using not the latest firmware.

Nexus 3.7.1

I think we have a winner

[GTR-80Y]

Wow its great to see the old girl finally getting the love she deserved. 

I owned this heap from 2006 until 2017, but it sat defected and stored for the last 5 years of ownership. The car had a very chequered history before i purchased it, i would of been the 3rd previous owner before it got to you.

The original for sale post i purchased it from can be found here:

All the chassis issues came with the car when i purchased it, the next owner after me did an engine swap right away and a respray before passing it on fairly quickly.

Would love an update, did you even finish the build? 

[BK]

Have I not posted since 2022 ? wow...

Yes, it's pretty much finished mechanically.

I'll probably sell it soon as the old man is 80 in November, so 99% he won't ever drive it again.

I don't really need 3 GT-R's and I haven't driven any of them since September last year - correction, drove my 33 earlier this year on Australia day.

All of them have been like this since then.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Welcome back Cnut 😘

[BK]

Thanks dude 😎

 

Anyone want to buy an 32 GTR in Adelaide ?

[GTSBoy]

2 hours ago, BK said:

Anyone want to buy an 32 GTR in Adelaide ?

Yes, but at the same time, no.

[BK]

How about an XR6 FG manual ute with 64000km on the clock ? It's gotta go too.

Time has come, don't need 3 GTR anymore so time start culling my cars. The old man is 80 in November and no more manual cars for him.

I will never sell my 33

[BK]

This R32 GTR is for real actually for sale, make an offer before it goes on car sales site

At its new home in SA with its siblings

Make no mistake I absolutely do not want to part with this car, but 8 cars is now a bit ridiculous.