Jump to content
SAU Community

WPC Treatmeant for my rb26 build

MoMnDadGTR

By MoMnDadGTR,
in General Automotive Discussion

 Share

Recommended Posts

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
Posted

pretty straight forward i haven't heard a bad thing about this product yet so really I'm looking for anyone that thinks wpc treating my rb26 or any engine build is a waste of time...from what i see which is only online content it is a god saver for metal and makes engines last at least 50 percent longer...looking for only the top dogs to put up some info here nothing shady/no newbs please!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481776-wpc-treatmeant-for-my-rb26-build/
Share on other sites
Rusty Nuts Experienced

Rusty Nuts

Posted
Posted

From what I recall, This was developed by a couple of companies in the Fuji Heavy Industries Group. Its a refinement of shot peening, using smaller projectiles(media) at much higher speeds. Its been around for years and highly regarded particularly in Trumpland. Only ever heard one naysayer, who said " but its a sacrificial process"  Where its more like a microscopic forging and heat treatment, with rapid heat rise and cool at the impact points.

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

yeah i researched the process pretty intense. i think its well worth it im gunna give it a shot. about 1000 bucks to do the entire rotating assembly plus shipping. seems to me that sa great way to save bearings, etc from the rb's crank walk issues. ive got a prp brace and with, the wpc i hope to pull my new engine down after 2 years and be able to confirm the results.

MoMnDadGTR Mentor

MoMnDadGTR

Posted
  • Author
Posted

nismo bearings. im still trying to figure out which coating is on the bearings cause they may not accept the the wpc properly. the new king bearings have a coating on them that are pretty good but im staying, my engine was line bored and crank machined a bit so will have to go one size over Nismo bearing on the rods and mains. but yeah wpc the whole rest of the engine pretty much. will post pics and lots of success or not success videos. the process was much cheaper than i thought. its simple less friction more power more smiles.

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • BaronOBeefdip
      Baron's R34 GT-R build thread - car in Japan for 5 years -_-

      By BaronOBeefdip · Posted

      Hey, it's a GT-R, it's just as significant a moment as mine😁 It's not ideal when things are uncertain; I'm the type of person that always has a set plan for things in life so being unsure of this plan puts me in a weird place mentally.
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      Hows your intake piping? Are you still running stock? Having in the stock AFM position would mean, if the BOV was shut/venting out, it'd create the almost stalling kind of effect right // "the rich pulse behaviour" due to MAF thinking air is flowing ? But this would be better than having the bov in the stock position + MAF on/just before cross over piping right?
    • GTSBoy
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      Essentially, yes. Although I wouldn't put the AFM on the crossover pipe. I'd want to put it into what amounts to the correct size tube, which is more easily done in the intercooler pipework. I bought a mount tube for card style AFM that replaces the stock AFM - although being a cheap AliExpress knockoff, it had no flange and I had to make and weld my own. But it is the same length and diameter as the stock RB AFM, goes on my airbox, etc etc. I don't have a sick enough rig to warrant anything different, and the swap will take 5 minutes (when I finally get around to it and the injectors & the dyno tune).
    • Wazmond
      Stock rb25det neo questions

      By Wazmond · Posted

      So to summarise, the best thing to do is to move recirc to between turbo and IC, and maf on the crossover pipe. Meaning I'd need a recirc flange, drill a hole in the piping on turbo outlet area. And drill hole on crossover to fit/weld maf sensor? Either that or put the MAF on the turbo inlet right?  Is an aftermarket recirc/blowoff valve recommended? Do currently have family in Japan so could probably bring something back with maybe a cheeky lil SuperAutobacs run?
    • tsuokun
      Lets play a game - What is causing my oil consumption?

      By tsuokun · Posted

      Yep, so far most have said that it looks like corrosion on the wall from piston not moving. Which then has probably damaged the oil rings and caused those vertical marks. The longest the engine was still after the rebuild, was the winter of 2018 - 2019, plus the boat trip to Japan. When I shipped the car, it had normal gas in the tank but before that winter pause, it had E85 in tank.  In any case, even if either one of those was the cause, it happened close to 6 years ago and the car has been driven something like 30 000kms after the fact. Again, apart from the plugs and the dip stick, there is nothing in the way the car runs that would indicate what has been going on in the engine. I am going to consult a shop and ask their opinion, what would be the best approach. I do have some access to a garage I could use to diagnose further myself, but time is very restrictive. Might end up buying another engine that could be used while this one is being remedied. Without pulling the head, it will be impossible to find out if it needs another bore, but here's to hoping a hone would suffice.  Goddamnit, I would really have preferred this not happening.  
×
×
  • Create New...