Endurance R32 GTS-T build

[OST Micah]

1 hour ago, smart_garrett said:

Thanks! I think its crazy of the amount of 32-33 here that the "build" is a big single, wheels, tomei exhuast, and coilovers, oh yea and maybe a momo steering wheel haha!

Agreed! Sad to see. 

[smart_garrett]

Most of the interior wiring is done, finished up some sensor wiring to the bay as well as the switch panel which i have off in this photo. Got the mid drivers net ran through the dash to the bar as well as the side net test fitted.

[smart_garrett]

Couple of small updates. Got the new clutch in, now waiting on the flywheel to be resurfaced and then to mate the engine with the transmission which will be filled with Torco RTF or MTF. Also got the new brake master onto the car.

[smart_garrett]

Hey guys, I’m looking at some brake options and wondering what people are running for enduro or circuit race cars in general. I would love to stick with AP Racing as I’ve driven with them a lot before, but not sure if they make a kit for the 32 gtst. Will a BnR kit fit on the HCr? Or do you have to use a 300zx kit? Thanks for any help.

[Duncan]

Pretty sure no-one on here is doing serious endurance racing. I would use AP if I was, especially in your case as you've used them before. I run porsche 6 spots on standard size discs with winmax pads but mostly do sprint races and rallies.

My understanding is all R32/33 stuff will bolt on, and R34 GTR is only different in mounting bolt diameter (14 instead of 12 which is no big deal to address); definitely for GTR and 33 GTST but I am not 100% for 32 GTST. Others here should be able to confirm.

[smart_garrett]

1 hour ago, Duncan said:

Pretty sure no-one on here is doing serious endurance racing. I would use AP if I was, especially in your case as you've used them before. I run porsche 6 spots on standard size discs with winmax pads but mostly do sprint races and rallies.

My understanding is all R32/33 stuff will bolt on, and R34 GTR is only different in mounting bolt diameter (14 instead of 12 which is no big deal to address); definitely for GTR and 33 GTST but I am not 100% for 32 GTST. Others here should be able to confirm.

Awesome thanks for the help, maybe someone will confirm at some point.

[niZmO_Man]

The mounting points for R32/R33 calipers is same (so that's why you can bolt on R32/R33 GT-R brakes onto GTS-t and 5 stud Silvias etc.). So an 'R32 Skyline' kit should fit (it's just the dogbone adaptors I believe), although you should be able to confirm with some measuring.

[smart_garrett]

13 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

The mounting points for R32/R33 calipers is same (so that's why you can bolt on R32/R33 GT-R brakes onto GTS-t and 5 stud Silvias etc.). So an 'R32 Skyline' kit should fit (it's just the dogbone adaptors I believe), although you should be able to confirm with some measuring.

Thanks, this helps lots

[smart_garrett]

Mule engine is dropped in, have to finish up some wiring but cranked it and got 50psi oil pressure then let off. Hoping for first start this Friday. 

[smart_garrett]

Welp, pretty big update here.  The past week has been pretty busy prepping for the first shakedown day that happened this past Saturday. Mapped the car and was able to get a safe 280 whp at only 8-10 psi. Turned the ignition advance up top to around 19 degrees and this makes for a very linear power delivery. Feels similar to an s54 with a bit less downlow torque. The shakedown day went well I had another driver fly in for the week and he was able to get about an hour in the car but wasn't used to rhd hand drive so had a rough time with the shifts. He unfortunately had a missshift going into 4th went into 2nd. He said it only rev'd up to about 8 grand so hopefully no damage, ran for about an hour after that and all seemed fine. All and all got a good 4-5 hours on track and a lot of good data. Not sure how I like my current alignment that will be my next change. Anyways heres a screenshot of me in the car.

Edited April 5, 2021 by smart_garrett

[smart_garrett]

Looking for some input on shocks and springs. What brand/ spring rates are people running for their road race gtst's? I was looking at the MCA line up but haven't heard much about them over here in the States. I was also thinking of possibly getting a set of custom Penske racing shocks built up, but again not sure what kind of specs to use. I think someone name Ben on here went down that route? Id love to hear some input.

Edited April 13, 2021 by smart_garrett

[smart_garrett]

Have had the car out for a couple test days now. Everything seems to be going great. I've done a lot of data logging and have been reviewing it all. My friend and I made up a livery for the car too which came out pretty good. Obviously the car is still missing all of the aero elements that I'm looking to add as I'm currently playing around with some cfd for a rear airfoil. The empty space up front will be filled mostly with series sponsored logos and the number plates. 

 

Another big thing I'm really starting to notice is how over damped/under spring these coilovers i have now are (cusco), especially on slow corners. I've emailed MCA to see if I can work something out with them. If not ill have to get a set of custom penskes.

 

Edited May 16, 2021 by smart_garrett

[Duncan]

Looks awesome, yellow is a great colour to stand out on track.

MCA golds are a good choice for endurance work and they should have settings available for 32 GTST.

[robbo_rb180]

Cars looking great, you won't be disappointed with MCA coilovers.

[smart_garrett]

Pushed the car hard at a more technical track that also has a long straight. I noticed the clutch started to get a bit spongey feeling after about 3 30 min sessions. Didn't help it when the car cooled off so I'm wondering if I boiled over the fluid. Brakes felt very nice the whole time which I think surprises a lot of people being they're not some big fancy kit. DBA rotors with new z32 calipers, steel lines, and porterfield r4 race pads. Will lock the tires up with no fade consistently over a 1.5 hr stint. Haven't been able to get out longer than that but I'm sure they will get a bit tired after a couple hours.

One thing that im working on is getting the car to drive like a naturally asperated bmw 6 cyl. The rb20 is right with them once it gets wound up, but before that it really struggles, which you really notice on corner exit. I have adjusted my driving style for the turbo car, which generally involves a tiny bit different apex point and getting on throttle a lot earlier. Even with this, its still a bit sluggish. And no, im not going to put a 25 in it and have it grenade after every 25 race hours, at least not yet hah. Other than that and the clutch issue, this thing has been a tank so far in testing.

The next thing on the list is to cut the hood and fit a "gtr style" hood (bonnet) lip. Along with some standard hood vents.

 

Also saw this trailer that I would love to have with that colour, quite a bit different than my pastel white hitch pull.

 

Edited May 29, 2021 by smart_garrett

[Duncan]

That is pretty weird to have a spongey clutch, I've never had an issue with overheated clutch fluid, it just doesn't have the heat coming into it like brakes do. I do run a direct line from clutch master to slave rather than via that intricate factory damper. Suggest you change to a direct line if you aren't and of course it will be bled at same time.

For the corner exit, do you have the option to run a shorter diff ratio (obviously need to consider likely highest speed in top gear at the tracks you go to). And of course if you are having a rear traction problem getting on it earlier, a little less rear camber and a good diff can help

[Duncan]

BTW love the look of the car too!

[smart_garrett]

33 minutes ago, Duncan said:

That is pretty weird to have a spongey clutch, I've never had an issue with overheated clutch fluid, it just doesn't have the heat coming into it like brakes do. I do run a direct line from clutch master to slave rather than via that intricate factory damper. Suggest you change to a direct line if you aren't and of course it will be bled at same time.

For the corner exit, do you have the option to run a shorter diff ratio (obviously need to consider likely highest speed in top gear at the tracks you go to). And of course if you are having a rear traction problem getting on it earlier, a little less rear camber and a good diff can help

Thanks, yea I have a direct line from the master to the slave right now so I’m not sure what it is, out of town right now so can’t investigate yet. The shorter ratio is definitely something I’ve been thinking about since I’m looking at some 1.5 way options. Camber wise I’m at about 4.5* negative in the front and 2.5* in the rear, definitely a bit aggressive but has been pretty even wear so far with pretty neutral toe.

[Duncan]

Yeah if the wear is good I wouldn't change the rear camber, unless I was chasing grip out of corners (but it sounds like your problem is lag not lack of grip)

[sav man]

I run Penske in my Gtst, but it took a bit of mucking around the get the valving right. 450lb front and 375lb rear works for me.

You can run a 4.6:1 diff out of a sentra that will mask the lag.  But keeping a small turbo and running E85 is really the only way to minimise the lag wihout opening the engine