Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey, everyone!!

I’ve got a 1989 GTR. Bought a stock Rb26 out of a 99’ and I’m currently rebuilding it now while it’s outside the car.

 

so as of right now, I’ve got on the motor:

Garrett 2860R- 5’s with HKS oil restrictor 

ported stock manifolds

HKS turbo elbows

tomei VALC cams with 254 duration and 9.15mm of lift 

Radium Fuel rail

800CC injectors by Deatschwerks

new OEM timing belt idler pulley, tensioner spring, tensioner pulley

HKS adjustable intake and exhaust cams 

new OEM water pump

full HKS exhaust

HKS downpipes

extended oil filter housing with -10AN fittings to an oil cooler

Breather hoses to an oil catch can from the valve covers 

Nismo thermostat

Fuel pressure regulator

All new HKS gaskets

Tomei timing belt

tomei oil gallery orifice

tomei oil pan baffle

N1 Oil pump with spool forged gears 

Tomei valve springs and retainers

everything else on the motor is pretty much stock that I haven’t listed here. Stock rods and pistons.

the chassis is completely built. It has a full GKTech suspension and BcForged coilovers, fuel cell in the trunk with dual high flow fuel pumps, battery relocation to the trunk and a full heads up AEM display with an AEM infinity ECU. 
 

i think my question would be, (being new to the RB26 motor) would be, how solid is this build? I’m honestly looking for a reliable street car. Looking for a realistic 300-400 horsepower reliably while also being able to have fun driving in a spirited way. Not looking to bounce off the rev limiter. 
 

im hearing that the RB26 has some oil issues and I’ve read up on the N1 oil pump. I feel confident in my build in so far but I’m not too sure about the n1 pump with those spool forged gears. Is that enough to reach what I’m achieving assuming I’m not a jackass bouncing off of the rev limiter??

I’ve included photos of my motor bay and the car as well.

thank you all in advance!

 

warm regards,

 

justin

87B6DCF2-B897-4B35-AF01-38823D2B6731.jpeg

4038C87B-1474-4610-A82F-6205CA8BF7FE.jpeg

EFE1515B-FFE5-4C4A-B854-3F9D9B2E7367.jpeg

6543E7AE-B150-4995-BBAB-38A77FD6CB18.jpeg

C218A1E0-3365-4EA3-89EA-F7FD4DB21229.jpeg

66F7707D-07DE-43D4-9C15-9DB1C7EBA731.jpeg

  • Like 3

and im going to save you here before you get eatn alive... 300-400hp well you already have that off the shelf....reliable is a wierd word in this world. usually comes down to the driver and the maintenance not the hp level mate. 300-400 is peanuts for her. n1 pump ive never been a fan off. seem like you have good capability mechanically.. with those turbos you could get much more and still be well reliable as you would say. nothings reliable really its a twin rb single that thing while you got the motor out. sell the twins. you will understand later they just suck.

Nice color, I like it!

Not sure if you plan to run stock intercooler, but the story of stock intercooler good for 600hp is BS.  I would recommend adding an aftermarket intercooler.  There is no clutch mentioned in your list, so I would also suggest a new ATS carbon twin plate.  

If your goal is a robust 400hp, I think the -5s are not the right choice.  They hit the 400hp mark at later RPM and are meant for more.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Me coming to check the thread to see if my manual boost controller was set up correct......  
    • Ah yes but were you responsible? In the time I've had it (just before Christmas) I spun off the track twice and drove into things twice, so four separate incidents.. in two outings. Luckily I have a full OEM GTR front end to put on which is hopefully not a precursor for further, future, more expensive mistakes to come. It is some consolation that anyone who would want to buy my Altia bar would have to paint it anyway, the guards, too. (if they can get over the asymmetry). Hopefully over the weekend I will disassemble and see how badly things are bent. From what it looks like, the headlight has actually just been pushed back and bent the headlight support (which .. somehow... crushed the guard in). I guess the headlight plastic is strong stuff.
    • These things happen And I believe "we, the people, who modify stuff, and actually use it, cannot have nice things" It's just a shame that it happened so soon after paint  I still win the award for quickly destroying newly painted panels I think, as my car came back from the paint shop all nice and shiny, until about 4 hours later when the boot was destroyed by a wayward locker that was blown around by the wind.... What doesn't kill you makes you stronger, and poorer.....dooh
    • This. And also, the rotor thickness is constrained by the calipers. Cannot be much thicker, if at all. Cannot be much thinner, if at all. New rotors are....fairly cheap. Turbo calipers can still be picked up for sensible money. Arguably, the best thing is to get R32 calipers and put them on mount spacers on 324mm discs. That's about the cheapest and easiest way to get quite large brakes that are essentially bolt on. And that's despite maintaining for years that the R32 calipers are not the best choice because they seem to be more flexy and creaky than the others. If you were prepared to put up with nasty little NA sliding calipers, these will still seem like Brembos by comparison.
    • A quick Google said 297mm..
×
×
  • Create New...