Jump to content
SAU Community

Are all Rb30 heads cracked??? (engines not owners)*

Cheww

By Cheww,
in R Series (R30, R31, R32, R33, R34)

 Share

Recommended Posts

Cheww Contributor

Cheww

Posted
Posted

So the other day i herd (what i thought was) a drastic outrageous statement.....

"That ALL rb30 heads are cracked, EVEN if you cant see it (because the crack isn't all the way through yet)"

and this is regarding the r31s as well as the VLs before you ask. 

old mate says its due to the fact that rb30s have hot exhaust gasses on one side of the water jacket and cold water on the other side and these hot and cold conditions are the reason for cracked heads on unmolested engines with 10,000km. 

i dont know if this is standard knowledge or not, but id kinda like to molest my engine so the idea of a potential crack in the head doesn't arouse me at all. So what do yall suggest i to do to find out if my engine has an "invisible" cracked or not? and how would i repair it if it was? (if what he says is true)

my engines actually running like a dream at the moment but it did have over heating troubles in the past that were fixed pretty quick

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

I suspect the cracked head story is from a VL, because their factory cooling system was not set up correctly, so someone drove their VL with a blown headgasket for thousands of kilometers before the engine gave up.

  • Like 1
Ben C34 Grand Master

Ben C34

Posted
Posted
51 minutes ago, niZmO_Man said:

I suspect the cracked head story is from a VL, because their factory cooling system was not set up correctly, so someone drove their VL with a blown headgasket for thousands of kilometers before the engine gave up.

not setup correctly? what do you mean?

the Radiator is lower than the head, you have to bleed the coolant . Because people werent aware of that and didnt do it doesnt mean there is a fault of the car.

niZmO_Man Grand Master

niZmO_Man

Posted
Posted

Running off old memory but it was related to the radiator being lower than head and car not being bled properly because of that. R31's rad was higher? Like I said, it's been a long time since I've read about this.

r32-25t Grand Master

r32-25t

Posted
Posted
2 hours ago, niZmO_Man said:

Running off old memory but it was related to the radiator being lower than head and car not being bled properly because of that. R31's rad was higher? Like I said, it's been a long time since I've read about this.

Yeah this is what it was

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
 Share
Go to topic listing


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • MBS206
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By MBS206 · Posted

      Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • sunsetR33
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By sunsetR33 · Posted

      Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • dbm7
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By dbm7 · Posted

      Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • joshuaho96
      Anyone know this frontpipe?

      By joshuaho96 · Posted

      You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
    • GTSBoy
      New fix for low tyre pressure from bmw

      By GTSBoy · Posted

      You talking about the ones in the photo above? I guess that could make sense. Fixed (but flexible) line from the point up above down to the hubcap thingo, with a rotating air seal thingo. Then fixed (but also still likely flexible) line from the "other side" of the transfer in the hub cap thingo up to the valve stem on the rim. A horrible cludge, but something that could be done. I'd bet on the Unimog version being fed through from the back, as part of the axle assembly, without the need for the vulnerable lines out to the sides. It's amazing what you can do when you have an idea that is not quite impossible. Nearly impossible, but not quite.
×
×
  • Create New...