Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

a billet block (or cast block, partial grout and a brace) and Nitto Stroker kit is only 25 grand, add 10k for a full house head, a few grand for 625 bolts/studs and you're most of the way there.  Precision 7685, a couple of gates, manifold, Motec M150.. and you're at maybe 50k assembled.

RIPS racing in NZ has a lot of experience building engines for UK guys and shipping them so I'd be giving them a call.

Edited by burn4005
  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7946899
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, burn4005 said:

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

Labour.

See below, that's how. If your asking on how to build 1200hp your not building it yourself are you ?  It's not "just" engine, it's the whole car that needs to be addressed, while paying someone else to do it.

1 hour ago, UWISSH! said:

1: put car in shipping container addressed to either CRD or Maatooks

2: sign blank cheque and place in car

3: sit back and twiddle thumbs till car returns 

 

  • Like 6
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7946909
Share on other sites

On 2/4/2021 at 4:19 PM, burn4005 said:

I'd love to know how you could possibly spend 250k on an engine package.....

a billet block (or cast block, partial grout and a brace) and Nitto Stroker kit is only 25 grand, add 10k for a full house head, a few grand for 625 bolts/studs and you're most of the way there.  Precision 7685, a couple of gates, manifold, Motec M150.. and you're at maybe 50k assembled.

RIPS racing in NZ has a lot of experience building engines for UK guys and shipping them so I'd be giving them a call.

Cost to build goes up dramatically as power numbers increase. On top of that you have to pay for frequent rebuilds, nothing making 1200 hp does it for very long. If every rebuild requires you to either ship an entire car to another continent or drop the engine and ship that to another continent the costs are going to skyrocket.

There's really no such thing as a cheap build with RBs. The costs are laughable compared to a Hellcat Redeye crate engine which is under 30k USD and starts you at 800 crank hp on pump gas, completely emissions compliant and FCA has already done all the ECU tuning + setup for you. Run E85 and you're probably going to get to 900 whp no problem, no other changes needed. It won't be laggy either, the displacement helps tremendously with driveability.

IMO the instant you start setting non-trivial power goals for an RB a lot of soul searching is needed to justify it. The cost is insane, the compromises are big, and you're setting yourself up for a car that will live in a trailer towed from one drag event to another.

Edited by joshuaho96
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7946990
Share on other sites

For the price of a stock R34 you may as well buy a current model RS6 and add this https://www.mtm-usa.com/collections/rs6-avant-c8/products/mtm-ecu-conversion-stage-4-audi-rs6-c8-1001hp and still have a useable stupid fast car

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7946995
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, junkie said:

For the price of a stock R34 you may as well buy a current model RS6 and add this https://www.mtm-usa.com/collections/rs6-avant-c8/products/mtm-ecu-conversion-stage-4-audi-rs6-c8-1001hp and still have a useable stupid fast car

If we're just trying to find the highest horsepower per dollar car you could just do this and get within spitting distance of 1200 hp crank for 55k USD: https://www.lebanonfordperformance.com/2020-1000hp-mustang-for-54995/

Personally I think the RB26 GTR with -7s or comparable is enough power, but I have a weird obsession with things like good street manners and an engine that won't blow up if I don't use Motul 300V/Valvoline VR1 and change it every 2000 miles or whatever crazy maintenance regimen is involved in keeping a 600+ whp RB26 alive.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7947000
Share on other sites

 

18 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Any more than ~500 engine HP is almost certainly a waste of time for a street car.

But the UAE is not the real world, so real world rules do not apply.

Sounds like something someone with only 500hp would say

  • Like 1
  • Haha 4
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7947044
Share on other sites

It’s very easy with e85 and modern turbos and there’s a difference between having it and using it. There always a low boost setting or even using less throttle. Driven cars with over 650hp at the wheels and down low they drive just as good or even better then a factory car 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7947078
Share on other sites

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

It’s very easy with e85 and modern turbos and there’s a difference between having it and using it. There always a low boost setting or even using less throttle. Driven cars with over 650hp at the wheels and down low they drive just as good or even better then a factory car 

Right, but in order to get to 700 whp for example you need a turbo that can flow that kind of air. If you then turn the boost down to 1 bar for street use then you're only clipping the portion of the RPM range where the engine would be making more than 1 bar, if you never intend on exceeding say 450 whp you could run a smaller turbo in the same family to get better transient response. Instead of an EFR 8374 you could run a 7163 or maybe even a 6758. 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481908-bnr34-1200-hp/#findComment-7947090
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Major thread necro but how bad of a job is it to DIY? Looking at it online it looks like if you reuse your ring and pinion as long as those are in good condition it should be fine to just pull the axles/front cover and replace the diff that way? Or should I be replacing everything and doing preload measurements/gear mesh testing like the factory service manual mentions for the rear diff?
    • in my list I had the R33 GTR as the best Skyline. Infact I had all GTR's (33>34=32), the NSX, the GTO, the 300ZX, the 180SX, the S15 better than the FD RX7. I had the MR2 and the A80 as 'just' better. I also think the DC5R Integra looks better but this is an 01 onwards car. I also think the FC>FD. It's almost like aesthetics are individual! The elements @GTSBoy likes about the FD and dislikes about the 180 are inverse in my eyes. I hate the rear end of the FD and it's weird tail lights that are bulbous and remind me of early hyundai excels. They are not striking, nor iconic, nor retro cool. The GTO has supercar proportions. I maintain these look much better in person (like the NSX) especially with nice wheels and suspension which is mandatory for all cars pretty much. Some (or all) of these you have to see in person to appreciate. You can't write a car off until you see one in the flesh IMO. Like most people we probably just like/dislike cars which represent certain eras of design or design styles in general. I also think the 60's Jag E type looks HORRIBLE, literally disgusting, and the 2000GT is nothing to write home about. FWIW I don't think the Dodge Viper Gen1's have aged very well either. You can probably see where I rate bubbly coupes like the FD. I know we're straying now but the C4 and C5 absolutely murder the Viper in the looks department as time goes on, for my eyes. Wouldn't surprise me if people who love the FD, also love the MX5, Dodge Viper, Jag E Type, etc etc.
    • I used to hate R31s, and any of the other Nissans that led up to it, and any of the Toyotas with similar styling, because of the boxiness. They were, and remain, childish, simplistic, and generally awful. I appreciate R31s a lot more now, but only the JDM 2 door. The ADM 4 door (and any other 4 door, even if they are unique compared to our local one) can eat a bowl of dicks. The Aussie R31 is also forever tarnished by their association with stereotypical bong clutching Aussie R31 owners of the 90s and early 2000s. I think the Nissans of the 70s (other than 120Y/180B/200B) are far superior looking to the 80s cars. The 240K era Skylines are boss. The same is broadly true of Toyotas. Hondas don't ever register in my thinking, from any era. Mitsus are all horrid shitboxen in any era, and so also don't register. Subarus are always awful, ditto. Daihatsus and Suzukis also don't generally register. They are all invisible. I think the SW20 MR2 looks fiddly. The 3000GT/GTO is like that but way worse. Too many silly plastic barnacles and fiddly gimmicks ruined what could have been a really nice base shape. Kinda-sorta looks like a big heavy ST165 Celica coupe (and I'm not sure if that's a good thing or a bad thing). I think the 180SX is dreadfully bland. It's not bad looking. But it has no excitement to it at all. It's just a liftback coupe thing with no interest in its lines, and bad graphical elements (ie wide expanses of taillight plastic on the rear garnish). The S13 Silvia is a little better - getting closer to R32 shapes. But still....bland. S14? Nope. Don't love it. S15...a little better. Probably a lot better, actually. Benefits from not being like a shrunk in the wash R34 (where the S13 was a shrunk in the wash R32 and the S14 looked like a Pulsar or something else from the stable on Nissan mid 90s horrors). The Z32 was hot as f**k when it came out but hasn't aged as well as the A80. Keep in mind that I think the R33 is the most disgusting looking thing - and out of all the previous cars mentioned is objectively closest to my precious R32. It's just....real bad, almost everywhere you look. And that is down to the majority of what was designed in the 90s being shit. All Nissans from that era look like shit. Most other brands ditto. In that context, the FD absolutely stands out as being by far the best looking car, for reasons already discussed. Going behind the aesthetics, the suspension alone makes it better than almost any other car.  
    • If they just called it the "Mazda Tiffany", it would have been spot on.
    • Yup but for me its the HR ! Cut my teeth on the old holden 6s in the day ! And here's me thinking in the day it was also the 300ZX and the Mitsubishi GT3000 ! All, as well had good lines, but always seemed to need finishing off, style wise.
Ă—
Ă—
  • Create New...