Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

  • Replies 56
  • Created
  • Last Reply

Top Posters In This Topic

Hmmm.. if it's a budget issue, then the 32 wins hands down. I personally think the 32 looks the toughest of them all, and we were looking at buying buying one, but they're starting to get alittle old, and you don't get the luxuries of air bags, brembos brakes (some 32's came with them) and a newer car as you do with the 33... amongst other things.

Plus they have a slower ATTESSA system than 33's, and tend to handle with a slower & more rear end bias...

Either way, both are awesome Value for Money, but with your budget I don't see a problem with find a 33.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48194-r33-or-r32-gtr/#findComment-970934
Share on other sites

Actually BOTH models are getting long in the tooth now (unless you pick up a Series 3 R33).

Given that both models have been driven fairly hard (why else would you buy an R?), I would assume that unless the previous owner has spent the time and money, you will be up for some major maintenance expenses sooner or later (take note on how many RBs are being rebuilt around the country atm - including mine!).

If you like the R32, I would pick one with a straight body and spend the saved money on a motor rebuild and suspension upgrade including replacement of all bushes.

If you go the R33, chose carefully and don't blow all your dosh, as there will very likely be some hidden expenses down the track.

In conclusion, don't be put off if this is your dream - they are great cars!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48194-r33-or-r32-gtr/#findComment-971057
Share on other sites

I have a 33 V-spec, but if you want to get serious with money and mods go a 32, 89 model with mods, I personally know a few people who are going that route and it's worth it. They have picked them up with different turbines and accessories, the lot for just over $20K. That's what my GF is going to do now, selling the 180 this weekend and getting a 32 GTR.

Don't worry about anyone telling you they are too old and worn out being an 89' they are motor wise generally still mickey mouse and the money you save is worth it.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48194-r33-or-r32-gtr/#findComment-971673
Share on other sites

r32 v-spec uses same brakes, turbos and attessa system as r33 :D  

But obviously in a far lighter and more enjoyable package.

FAR lighter???? The difference is 50kg? 3% of the total car weight?!?!?!?!

I am sure there is 50kg difference between some of the posters in this thread!

It is the difference between a full and empty tank of fuel...

"Geee, my car sure is craptacular after I fill it up! But when the empty light comes on it is just soooooo much better" :bs!:

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/48194-r33-or-r32-gtr/#findComment-974105
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now



  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Means something is not set up right, tune/calibration related.  
    • Finally replaced the previous temporary mesh indicator surrounds (temporary was the last 10+ years 😂) with a 3D printed GTR style version for the front indicators. I think it looks a lot nicer than the old setup and at least the indicators now point in the correct direction rather than angled off. Needed a little bit of tweaking to deal with the intercooler piping but got there in the end. Old and new photos below. 
    • It's weird to me that you say this because I'm pretty sure locals with relatively standard standalone tunes (boost/barometric compensated alpha-N) still have driveability issues when they pop intercooler hoses. Maybe with enough data I can just train some kind of model that spits out an expected grams/cyl given every sensor input except MAF like what FCA did with their Pentastar 3.6 ECU logic. Basically stock everything. The main motivation honestly is to have a sensor that can be a decent baseline source of truth. In scenarios you're describing obviously it won't work every time but it seems to me the number of corner cases that exist in MAF load is maybe not as severe and difficult to manage vs ITB alpha-N with some MAP/barometric compensation.
    • What are your plans for your blow off valves? Purely plumb back? How soft will the spring in them be? AFM can be tricky to get super smooth and nice, especially depending on the rest of the system, and then can be very easily upset if something slightly changes. IE, even if you run recirc blow off valves, you could still see issues getting it to behave at certain load points as turbos might start to spool, but you release the throttle but it's not enough pressure to crack the bov open to recirc, and you can end up with reversion which can cause double metering, and hence dumping of fuel into the system, and stalling the engine.   If you're going to run a map sensor for closed loop boost control from the ECU, what makes you want to keep the AFM?    
    • It's not bad, it's just not flexible. And say if you have any leaks between the MAF and plenum, well then your load axis goes out the window. Here's a real world scenario, I blew off an intercooler hose last track day, as the clamp decided to Bluetooth itself somewhere. Still continued to do 2 laps and drive it to the pub for a couple of beers then home. Good luck doing that with a MAF setup 
×
×
  • Create New...