Removing sump

[sic33r]

Hey everyone

have a quick question does anyone have a photo of under there engine on a r33 coupe? I’ve tried googling but got not nothing

 

reason for this, is my engine builder finally has the new engine running in the car and is telling me the sump is now leaking oil around the welds. He needs to remove the sump to fix it, But he needs to take the engine back out of the car, for when he goes to reinstall, he wants to make sure it fits 100 percent. He says a cross member and other stuff is in the way. Surely this couldn’t be right? 
 

couldn’t imagine you would have to take a motor out of a car just to put a sump back on? 
 

 

[Murray_Calavera]

Sorry mate, sump out is engine out.

[Unzipped Composites]

Yeh generally its much faster and easier to take the engine out. Ive seen it done with the engine in by unbolting the engine mounts and lifting the engine enough to get enough room in, but its bush mechanics 101 and not something a professional mechanic should be putting his limbs at risk with.

 

Shouldn't be that bad though, engine out is a 2 hour job, 3 hours max. 

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

You can do it in the car, I've done it. Strap motor up, undo LCA, remove subframe, undo engine mounts.

But.. you're better off taking the motor out.

 

[wildeagle44]

+1 motor out

did this job only 3 weeks ago

[sic33r]

Thanks very much everyone for the info

wow I’m surprised by the answers I got.  Well ya Learn something every day I guess

 

[Murray_Calavera]

3 hours ago, sic33r said:

Thanks very much everyone for the info

wow I’m surprised by the answers I got.  Well ya Learn something every day I guess

 

I get why you asked the question though, plenty of cars don't need to pull the motor out to remove the sump. We are just lucky I guess lol. 

[Murray_Calavera]

13 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

You can do it in the car, I've done it. Strap motor up, undo LCA, remove subframe, undo engine mounts.

But.. you're better off taking the motor out.

 

You could eat off that! 

[hardsteppa]

I dunno dudes...bit of work to do it with engine in, but still alot less work/time than pulling the engine. Would do it again engine in if all i was doing was the sump, oil pump etc.

[admS15]

I've never done it but seem to agree with hardsteppa.

Removing lca's and cross member 

VS

complete engine and associated bits

I reckon I'd go option A.

Option B sounds excessive but as i said I've never done and not talking from experience.

 

 

[Duncan]

This feels a bit like do you prefer blondes or brunettes....

I'd take the engine out for sure rather than drop the x member (noting dropping the x member is a hoist only option in practice. Apart from anything else, it lets you have easy access to properly clean the bottom end for resealing the sump.

[Dose Pipe Sutututu]

Trying to remove the sump bolts with the motor on, then trying to remove the sump itself is very challenging (even with a hoist).

If you were doing this on jack stands, it would add even more complexities. And no, you can't use car ramps as with the subframe out there's nothing support the castor rods/LCAs.

Motor out is better.

[elohim_imanu]

I did manage to do this without removing the engine or front cross member, but I had the advantage that the exhaust manifold was removed. I am not setup to support the engine from the top or remove it.

1. Loosen the engine mount nuts so they only have a nut of thread. If it is a manual, I think you have to remove the gearbox to engine support brackets.

2. Jack up the engine off the bottom idler mount. Jack it up till the end of the slot and nut on the mount. You need this clearance to get the pan out at the rear of the engine.

3.Break the sealant seal to sump. I found a oil pan separator tool helpful to get it started.

4. The oil pick up can be removed with the gap available. 

5. The oil pan can be removed now.

6. Before assembling, do not apply sealant to the oil pick up area as your hand will rub it all off but apply to the other three and a bit sides.

7. It is a two man job to put the oil pan back, with the sealant, as you do not want it to touch anything and rub off.

8. With one person supporting the oil pan the other can fit the oil pickup

9. Apply the remaining sealant. This would be more difficult with the manifold or turbo in place, but I think it could be done. As you can see my sealant is a bit ugly, but good enough to seal.

10. Lift the sump up to the engine and bolt it on. We found it was easier to use two long guide bolts at each end to get it nice and aligned without touching.

Edited July 4 by elohim_imanu

[joshuaho96]

I think I'd settle for just pulling the engine. Then may as well have everything else inspected while you're at it and think about throwing a stroker kit in there with valve relief pistons for 50 degree advance VCAM and maybe a spline drive oil pump and other oil control mods on top of that and maybe a helical front LSD too.

[r32-25t]

Gtr/gts4 is definitely smarter to pull the engine out be cause you need to pull the box out anyway 

gtst I’d leave it in and drop the cross member