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6boost manifold cracks open rb25det


Tomak
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Hello,

I have a new setup installed about June 2020 last year. It has about 5000km milage and the manifold crack open. You can see that there is more heat around the crack and its more red?? My EGT was around 850 celcius max when pushing hard on the max boost.

I have a new turbine also GTX3071r gen 2 pushing around 450-500hp righ now. My boost is around 1.5bar max.

Question1: Does it have anything with bad mapping my car?

Question2: May be the issue with hitting the max rpm too often on gears from 1-3 and cutting off my engine at 7500rpm like crazy maniac? Since i got this new turbine i love the sound of this turbo when it hits max rpm so whats what i did a lot....

this crack on the picture looks really bad, its bend out, around 3cm long.

Any ideas ?

Here is the picture, i used this brand new manifold for arounf 2-3 months from installation. ;/

 

 

PART_1613213892868.jpeg

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19 minutes ago, r32-25t said:

Did you hear wrap the manifold?

Heat wrap? yes with Dei heat tape. But i am not sure if i left some spots without the tape. May be this be the issue? 

Edited by Tomak
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Damn...i am not to happy because i spent ton of money to build new setup and this manifold cost me 1000 pounds with lifetime warranty. They said its strong and one of best on the market. This is a joke or something.....Cant handle 2 months of driving

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Is the egt gauge on the dump pipe or before the turbine? If that is the state of the inside after you pulled it off I would say it has overheated big time. A normal look would be a patina of carbon, not a scorched earth look.

Edited by Dobz
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EGT sensor is where the crack is on other side manifold, after turbine.

Well i will try to fix it myself since my mechanic do the custom exhaust systems. 

Never heard about this heat wrapping issue...so i will take it out if this helps.

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After turbine temps will be lower than pre turbine, the only experience I've had with it was moving a temp sensor from dump pipe to pre turbine on a diesel. At low load there was a difference of about 30-40 degrees, at high load it was about 80-90 degrees difference. With that the pre turbine temps on yours were possibly in the 900's.

Unwrap the exhaust and make up a heat shield if you want to control radiant heat. Too much heat loading on a thin wall piping will mess with the metal chemistry and warp the whole manifold. Cast manifolds can get away with it more because of high thickness which increase heat storage capacity and rigidity.

1. If you're unsure of the tune then take it to a tuner before you possibly destroy your engine, judging by how the carbon has been scorched out of the manifold i'd say the tune needs a check.

2. Don't be carless and bash the limiter because it just looks stupid and will help destroy your engine quicker. 

 

 

Edited by Dobz
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OK, thanks will fix it and do the new mapping so i can go lower with egt temp. Maybe i run too rich as my last tuner always said rich is better to protect engine damage.

Is that normal that the pipes on the right are more overheated and more red on the picture? It looks like more exhaust gases flowing to the pipes on the right.....is that possible? The center of the pipes splitter is melted more to the right side. i marked this spot on blue. May be this a case why the pipes on right side cracked? As you can see the pipes on left side are in black color.....

PART_1613213892868.jpg

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1 hour ago, GTSBoy said:

The red side is probably 3 cylinders running leaner than the other 3.

Lean = hot. Not rich = hot. You want more rich here.

Yes you are right, not rich = hot. I remember having a hole in my turbo pressure hose and EGT was 950 C one time on my other setup i used to have.. So i think i know everything now. I need to check my fuel injections and to check all cylinders seperately because something is wrong here. I may have a mechanical problem with injections or its just bad mapping.

My new tuner is going to take care of this issue i hope because i dont have contact to my old one and dont have any info about AFR. 

 

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