Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How many RB25's are out there making 600rwhp reliably? I am in the process of getting mine built by a reputable engine builder here in W.A. I just don't want to throw my money away, it will be getting built with good name brand parts (CP, Nitto, ACL etc). Is 600whp too much of a stretch for a 25 long term, block integrity etc? Anything I should look out for, or know before pulling the pin. 

I know about the RBs oiling issues, and have read the oil control thread. My build will get a 9L sump, proper restrictors, strengthened oil pump/collar, good baffling and my r33 already has a accusump setup in it. 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/481969-600rwhp-rb25-series-2-reliable/
Share on other sites

Like anything depending on how you drive and maintain it. 

If your stressing about it lasting and/or breaking gearboxes probably best to not go chasing numbers. 

Gotta pay if you want to play

I'd take a responsive 300-350hp any day over a 500hp+ 30year old import as a daily. 

Why is WA still imperial not metric? About 450kw, right?

Anyway, assuming it is not racing of some sort, it should be fine for street and twisty driving because you just don't use the whooshy end of the rev range very much at all, perhaps once or thrice a day or week.

Gearbox however is at risk depending how you shift when you are pushing the car hard. Take it easy on full power shifts and you should be fine

  • Like 2

Please talk in kW... we aren't American.

If you want to talk in HP, make sure you convert everything else into the useless imperial system.

450kW for a built motor would be a walk in the park, I would be more concerned about your gearbox going bang :)

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...