Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey All, 

Hope everyone is well. Long story short, Bought a 2001 Mazda 121 Metro (Small Size Little Japanese Demon) with the most underpowered motor and feel, but still at a minimum a fun car, which makes a 60 zone feel like a space shuttle launch.

The few questions I have are,

one, got two oil leaks. One is coming from the sump plug (probably incorrect terminology), and another further behind. I was wondering since it is FWD if this could be trans or something else but got no clue, been underneath but a new oil leak started today but could be aircon or something i don't understand. I know one is defo engine oil, but the other, i didn't have time to check. If anyone is from Perth and has some time or interested (which i doubt anyone is) I'd owe them a life debt to look at the nugget.

Two, I am deciding if I am going to be a dickhead as per usual and cut the exhaust just before the muffler on the final 90 degree bend and stick it under the car and point it towards the underside of the side-skirt. The internal questions inside this are, one, if the pipe doesn't stick down or though the side skirt will it cause exhaust gases to pool underneath the car (close to fuel tank) and do i keep the muffler to f**k the cops off or do i just send it?

Three, my final stupid question. Now i know all of you hate pod filters and they are useless, but the pod filter i've added is definitely better than the stock 30mm pipe of airflow that the air-box was connected to. I have absolutely sketched the daylights out of this by finding out that adding a pod involves attaching pod to maf, and then i discovered an air temp sensor which i may or may not have drilled into my stock intake pipe and just plugged and walked away (yes i know it is bad and it is my first car sooo, sketchy is all i've got). To resolve this, I have got 3 inch tubing which will connect all fine (i've tested it) and made sure it plugs all together with the OEM parts, instead of the 2 inch tube. This new tubing is mainly stainless steel with silicon joining pieces and a somehow very well non-sketchy hole with a rubber seal for the air temp sensor ( i know, how advanced!). Anyway, back to the problem, the connection pipe i have made doesn't fit in the car.. , so does anyone have any ideas about how to go about keeping the pod, with new piping?

Anyway sorry for the headache that is this nugget, but, have to learn on a trash car to do something bigger...

Thanks all

Billy

Fix the leaks

Don't worry about exhaust, it will sound shit unless you get proper fat mufflers.

Intake modes will make no difference besides inhaling hot air and leading to less power, unless you have a sealed off box, but then after all that effort what will 1kW mean to you? Lose some weight instead.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Good morning all, Bit of a random question but figured I’d finally throw it out after wondering for a long while. Before I start, I'm hoping to do this purely out of personal preference. I think it would look better at night, and don't mind at all spending a few hours and dollars to get it done. I've copied this from a non-Skyline specific forum, so I apologize for the explanation of our headlight switch setup that we all know. Here we go: Zero lights (switch off) Parking lights (switch position 1) being a rectangular marker on the outside of the housing, my low beam being the projector in the centre (position 2), and a high beam triggered by my turn signal stalk. Most North American cars I’ve owned of this era have power to the amber corner (turning indicator) light as part of the first switch (parking lights). I’d love to have these amber corners receive power when the headlights and parking lights are on (headlight switch), yet still blink when using the turn signal which is of course a separate switch. Hopefully I’ve explained my question correctly. Is anyone aware of a way in which I might be able to achieve this? Thanks in advance
    • My heads are cathedral port! It's likely possible, but I don't want to add any extra moving parts (I know they don't move) between the heads, manifolds, etc. It will also affect how injectors/fuel rails etc sit and I don't really know if it would change how the FAST manifold goes/sits/fits. I have the LS6 steam pipes already as I have a very late LS1 block so it should be fine. I couldn't find anyone who had ever actually used one for this purpose, it seems 100% of people grind the water pump. The thermal spacers are 12mm and are half way to the cost of the newer water pump anyhow... so if it comes to that I suppose I'd rather buy a new pump. The bearing in the pump I do have is a little.. clunky, but it hasn't done that much time and I never noticed it when the car was together in the past few years, so..
    • The bushing has failed, not all that uncommon for a car of this age.  Any mechanic should be able to push in a new bushing for you, or you can probably buy the entire lower control arm, complete with bushes.
    • Could you not use "thermal" spacers to give the clearance, like the ones I used between the blower and head? That raised the manifold height by around 10-15mm Albeit the ones I used were for cathedral ports, but I assume they have similar for rectangular ports????
    • Thanks Paul I reached out to Autotainment but they no longer work on JDM cars as the guy who used to do the work moved on and is no longer doing that kind of work. I am talking with Level Up Audio though.
×
×
  • Create New...