Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys, 

I currently run and HR31 with RB25DET making 270 RwKw. Had my engine builder do the bottom end and I did the rest. Great engine and been running it for last 6 years at the track and roll racing without any dramas. Runs 20 psi boost no problem and revs to 7500 RPM still making power. Spends a lot of time in the 5000-7500 range as I do a lot of track days etc. Rest of time just an odd w/e driver. Runs and R33 box and R200 LN diff with 3.7 gears.

However, time for more torque and KW as sick of getting blown away at RR by HSV's (S/c of course) and Datto 1200's etc!!

Have been planning an RB30/25 for some time now and finally went to my engine builder this week with all the parts to get started. He depressed me by telling me that the RB30 is not the engine to turbo due the high Rod:Bore ratio meaning it will sit too long at TDC and under high boost melt/break pistons etc. Says a 3.4 stroker will work Ok but not interested in that as too expensive and car won't handle it. Will be using good forged rods and pistons and crank collar..

Never heard of this being a problem before as there are heaps of these RB30 engines around making awesome power. This will be more a track engine than road so will see high RPM (max 7000). Looking at making around 330-350 Kw at the wheels at 20 psi. I am not a drifter and rarely hit the limiter.

So my query: is this Rod:Bore ratio a problem or not?  What has been other's experience with this combo using it for track work/roll racing etc?

Thanks guys. 

 

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482044-rb3025-build-query/
Share on other sites

Thanks for that but 1. when you say stock I assume factory piston not forged and 2. what boost did this engine run? 3. Could this have been a tuning issue with a standard piston rather than the supposed Rod:Bore ratio problem? I suppose hard to know. 

 

17 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

Rod bore ratio is not a problem

Exactly, and this is what Rob from R.I.P.S  said about RB30 GTR's over ten years ago.

"I think the only guys who knock a 30 or genuinely prefer a 26 for a strong street car obviously have not been in a good RB30 GTR, there is just no comparison, we've proven 9000-10,000 is not only possible, but to date, has been 100% reliable (in a street/drag situation at least) the response is better, the driviblility is better, the slow cruise is better, the top end can be just as good, if not better, there really is no down side as far as I have found.

As far as rod/stroke ratio's go, it seems from the little I have looked into it, that the 26 is actually considered pretty poor and the Nissan RB30 is considered ideal.

Each to their own and I don't think there will ever be a 100% right or wrong, its just personal choice and you can't really blame a guy who has only ever been in big single turbo 26 GTRs for thinking its the "nuts", one day hopefully he'll experience a good all round RB and move up in cubes, one thing is for sure, I don't know of anyone who has had or been in a good 30 car and then said they prefered a similar spec 26.

  • Like 1

Thanks guys, appreciate your input but was hoping to hear from someone who may actually have an RB30 turbo engined track car that they could tell me what boost they run, rev limit they use and its reliability etc.

1 hour ago, WalkyHR31 said:

Thanks guys, appreciate your input but was hoping to hear from someone who may actually have an RB30 turbo engined track car that they could tell me what boost they run, rev limit they use and its reliability etc.

Have you tried speaking to workshops that are building RB30's? Your like a 30 min drive from CRD, why not pop in and have a chat with the boys who are regularly building RB30 powered skylines?

Yes that was option 1 but motor runs all stock gear - rods, oil pump, balancer, head, cams etc so wouldn't take too much more to reach breaking point! Anyway, already have 2 RB30 blocks, cranks, a head etc ready to go. 

14 minutes ago, WalkyHR31 said:

Yes that was option 1 but motor runs all stock gear - rods, oil pump, balancer, head, cams etc so wouldn't take too much more to reach breaking point! Anyway, already have 2 RB30 blocks, cranks, a head etc ready to go. 

Stock RB25 with just headstuds only will do 350kW all day on E85 at the track.

  • Like 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...