Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just purchased a R33 GTST sedan that was previously manual swapped.    I’ve figured out it has a Rb20 transmission and my Speedo is reading about double what it should.   At about 45mph the cluster is reading 160 kmh.    Does anyone have any info on how I would figure out what Speedo gear I need to change to ?    
Thank you ! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482062-r33-speedo-not-reading-correctly/
Share on other sites

So I pulled the Speedo gear and found the pinion gear is worn, guessing from improper mesh with the worm gear. So it seems the worm gear is skimming the top of the pinion instead of being meshed and causing it to over spin.  Looking for new pinion gears today 

D62F9AE3-35F0-4254-973F-071DA820E1D4.jpeg

Yep change it out and treat that RB20 gearbox gently and start saving your little lunch money for a RB25DET gearbox.

The RB20 gearbox is know to be quite frail when you load it up behind the RB25DET motor.

That way, after you change it out, you don't have to cringe when you give it a boot full worrying about breaking the RB20 box.

🤞🏻 Crossed the new gear meshes Into the trans correctly.   Found 4 listed at dealers in the country left. 

Have heard that about the 20 trans which is sad but makes sense.   From the condition of the trans and pedal assembly it all looks to have been in the car for a long time now.  Definitely wanting to change it out eventually for the proper trans ! 

  • 3 weeks later...

PLYNX

 

So it still had the auto cluster when I purchased it, was suggested to get a manual cluster so I found one and swapped it in.  Made no change unfortunately.     Seems what ever is translating the signal is on crack now 😂.  
 Have talked to people who said they had a 25 with 20 trans with the red gear on the Speedo drive and it worked as it should .    Starting to wonder if the drive unit is bad or have seen where people have gone and changed the lay out of things on the back of the actual Speedo but unfortunately can only find things for a auto to manual with the correct 25 trans 

34 minutes ago, R33sedandenver said:

I wonder if it’s the auto ecu can’t figure out the manual Speedo inputs

Nah, the signal from the gearbox sender is sent to the cluster the signal is converted at the cluster to the signal for the ecu and tcu.

Rb25det does not work vtc in patrol gr

By kike_kike, December 3, 2020 in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

AC Sine wave speed sender (the transmission speed sender)

This type of sender, widely used in the 90s and early 2000's is simple and reliable but not infallible. It generates its own power and sends a weak AC sinewave signal to the speedometer by teeth spinning past a coil with 2 wires. The sender requires one wire to be grounded and the other is the signal. The wires can be reversed and the same result will work just fine due to the fact that the sender waveform is a simple sinewave. The downside is that due to the sender generating its own power by the speed of the reluctor wheel (teeth) it can often lead to an erratic signal at low speeds.

Suggest you check the output with a very good multimeter or oscilloscope. Its all in the workshop manual.

You cannot buy a workshop manual here. 

image.jpeg.d8b59fe5c0b68d4e9474e7acd9aec9f0.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Here is a recipe. Sonic blocks till you get one that has a good enough bore. Get a torque plate and block brace, use your choice of fasteners (arp ect) bolt the thing together empty, half fill it and let it cure. Release it when it has, go to a REPUTABLE RB Builder and get the thing line bored/honed and cylinder honed to size, then wash. Once its all clean and dandy, wash and blow it out again. Then again.  Assemble said engine to your desired clearances with oil control mods, gasket to suit desired CR/Squish ect. Attach your extended sump with proper trap door oil baffles and head drain plumbed to sump with a SUMP BREATHER SYSTEM. Build your front diff with a decent LSD, rebuild your transfer case with a few extra plates, more than likely replace your tailshaft centre bearing and tighten up the rear diff. Tune to minimise excessive midrange cylinder pressure (timing unless you like to split bores and rebuild engines) Enjoy your engine, but hate the fact you are now destroying engine mounts, gearboxes, gearbox mounts, diff output flanges and driveshafts, diff mounts, tailshafts and front CV's.   Disclaimer.... Ive never done any of the aforementioned stuff.......
    • 440s will support well over 400HP on petrol, which is a decent place to be for an RB20. 230+rwkW. Will be a safer bet for idle/low load. 550s would be nice for the extra headroom. I've made the same decision with mine (Neo25). 1000s are probably too big for the Nistuned ECU, so I have some smaller ones.
    • Appreciate everything guys. I did go ahead and get an alignment... most of my complains are solved. Car is not perfect, but it's good enough. If I notice uneven tire wear or anything I'll just take everything back to stock.  Thanks again!
    • They still have not shipped the 550cc injectors as they weren't in stock, so in theory I could ask to get the 440cc ones instead, if those work better in my scenario. They're the same price so really shouldn't be an issue. Unfortunately I am not so knowledgeable in most parts of tuning so I wasn't sure what's best to choose between the two. 440cc ones are the lowest they have (not in stock, but available to buy nonetheless).
×
×
  • Create New...