Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

I just purchased a R33 GTST sedan that was previously manual swapped.    I’ve figured out it has a Rb20 transmission and my Speedo is reading about double what it should.   At about 45mph the cluster is reading 160 kmh.    Does anyone have any info on how I would figure out what Speedo gear I need to change to ?    
Thank you ! 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482062-r33-speedo-not-reading-correctly/
Share on other sites

So I pulled the Speedo gear and found the pinion gear is worn, guessing from improper mesh with the worm gear. So it seems the worm gear is skimming the top of the pinion instead of being meshed and causing it to over spin.  Looking for new pinion gears today 

D62F9AE3-35F0-4254-973F-071DA820E1D4.jpeg

Yep change it out and treat that RB20 gearbox gently and start saving your little lunch money for a RB25DET gearbox.

The RB20 gearbox is know to be quite frail when you load it up behind the RB25DET motor.

That way, after you change it out, you don't have to cringe when you give it a boot full worrying about breaking the RB20 box.

🤞🏻 Crossed the new gear meshes Into the trans correctly.   Found 4 listed at dealers in the country left. 

Have heard that about the 20 trans which is sad but makes sense.   From the condition of the trans and pedal assembly it all looks to have been in the car for a long time now.  Definitely wanting to change it out eventually for the proper trans ! 

  • 3 weeks later...

PLYNX

 

So it still had the auto cluster when I purchased it, was suggested to get a manual cluster so I found one and swapped it in.  Made no change unfortunately.     Seems what ever is translating the signal is on crack now 😂.  
 Have talked to people who said they had a 25 with 20 trans with the red gear on the Speedo drive and it worked as it should .    Starting to wonder if the drive unit is bad or have seen where people have gone and changed the lay out of things on the back of the actual Speedo but unfortunately can only find things for a auto to manual with the correct 25 trans 

34 minutes ago, R33sedandenver said:

I wonder if it’s the auto ecu can’t figure out the manual Speedo inputs

Nah, the signal from the gearbox sender is sent to the cluster the signal is converted at the cluster to the signal for the ecu and tcu.

Rb25det does not work vtc in patrol gr

By kike_kike, December 3, 2020 in Projects, Overhauls and Build-ups

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

AC Sine wave speed sender (the transmission speed sender)

This type of sender, widely used in the 90s and early 2000's is simple and reliable but not infallible. It generates its own power and sends a weak AC sinewave signal to the speedometer by teeth spinning past a coil with 2 wires. The sender requires one wire to be grounded and the other is the signal. The wires can be reversed and the same result will work just fine due to the fact that the sender waveform is a simple sinewave. The downside is that due to the sender generating its own power by the speed of the reluctor wheel (teeth) it can often lead to an erratic signal at low speeds.

Suggest you check the output with a very good multimeter or oscilloscope. Its all in the workshop manual.

You cannot buy a workshop manual here. 

image.jpeg.d8b59fe5c0b68d4e9474e7acd9aec9f0.jpeg

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • How do you go about diagnosing ecu's that don't have data logging, is it more experience at that point and just trying out things that you think will fix the issue?
    • Stock O2 are basically useless beyond anything at stoich. Any misfire will also be seen as lean. The stock O2 also read a collective exhaust gas volume, not each cylinder. Sputtering and missing means not each cycle is firing, and some are. Which means even if rich, as shit, on cylinders as they miss, they'll read lean, but the cylinders that did fire will read rich, and combined, well, they can read anything from rich to lean.   Start with the basics before even going looking at sensor values.   Edit: I say the above, and that's coming from the guy with a few thousand dollars worth of scan tools sitting right beside me right now that I use frequently for my job.
    • I just finished up a manual swap and I have a 1999 S2 AWD automatic in my garage, depending on where you are located. I'm in the the midwest of the US.
    • I’ve heard it can be done, you need to redrill the holes where they bolt to the chassis and apart from that they are the same. I’ve never done it or know anyone personally that has, it’s just something I’ve heard 
    • If it's reading full rich prior to a misfire that gives one directional hint, if it's already reading lean, etc. If it's reading pretty cleanly stoichiometric then suddenly drops out from a misfire that suggests it's not air mass estimation that's the problem. Could be ignition, could be something more subtle. Could be the CAS has decided to start dropping out at random or the drive pin is worn leading to excessive lash and trigger errors. LTFT can tell you the same but it's slower to react and if this is a recent issue it might not have stabilized. STFT stuck in one direction vs fluctuating back and forth can be used instead but I like to read O2 voltages anyways and interpret directly. If the O2 voltages make no sense in general or are super slow to react it could also be a failing O2 sensor. There's no real error correction for failing O2 sensors in these cars.
×
×
  • Create New...