Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all , if anyone has access to an S2 RB25T engine could you please measure the diameter of the base where the oil filter seals against .

The standard Z145a seal diameter is supposed to be 63mm OD , if that base is 70mm or larger we could use a Z68 filter which is basically same thing but 20mm longer .

Thanks in advance and cheers from Adrian .

Just measured the two blocks I have in the parts dept. One block would only have enough face to be 66mm the other is 65mm. The RB30 block I fitted the Z115 to, must have had a larger face area. So no to Z68.

Hi and thanks for your time .

What I was actually asking about was the face where the filter seals against on the aluminium housing with the water oil heat exchanger on it . This is a 96 GTS25T by the way .

I removed my standard Ryco Z145a filter today and the diameter of the filter mount is around 71.5-72mm . I had a Ryco Z68 here so I tried it and it works fine . Its basically same thing as Z145a but its around 20mm longer and its seal diameter is about 70mm . Z145a is 63mm . I cleaned everything up and got a small mirror on telescopic handle to see behind it . I can confirm that no part of the seal is exposed so there is no way it can blow out and leak . I went for a drive and confirmed no leaks .

I've looked further and there is another filter - Ryco Z37 , that is same as the Z68 but 143mm long rather than 120 . Z145a is 100 long , or high if you like . Z37 was standard I believe on 70s/80s Cressida's and HiAce so easy to get and not as expensive as filters on some late piles of garbage .

If you want even larger I can't see why you couldn't fit one of those inexpensive filter "sandwich" plates , to space it further out and use a good ole Z115 like all the old Nissan/ Datsun L Series engines used . These are also 140 odd mm long but larger seam diameter like 94mm vs 82mm . Same 70mm seal OD . These won't go directly in the std filter location because the filter body and rim is too big in diameter . The Z145a and Z68 only just clear the webs near the water oil heat exchanger . The filter sandwich plates are advertised as around 28-30 odd mm deep so may get out past obstructions for a 94/95 mm OD filter ie Z115 . Please don't ever substitute a cheaper Z9 for a Z115 . They have a lowish pressure bypass valve in them , which you don't need as RB25DETs have them on the engine side of the filter . Z9 was for early Fords , nuff said ...

All these filters I've mentioned (except Z9) have the same features as Z145a , ie no bypass valve/have anti drain back valve/no anti siphon valve .

I am not a fan of todays cars thimble sized oil filters , I reckon more capacity is better within sensible limits .

Lastly and a little OT , for anyone interested my Mitsy Evo 6 wears a Ryco Z79a because its larger than the now std piddly oil filter and clears the oil coolers banjo bolts . Z79a is standard for Mazda 323s back in the carby days so again available and not as expensive as the current trend of thimble sized oil filters .

Take care and cheers from DP03 .

 y

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I tried my best, well I see how it is though... It's time to be ruthless! I'll up my bid with a JVC sub and an amp to run it, 8 stainless steel drink coasters with a rubber backing, and a photo of Tom Cruise. Oh, I can increase the cash portion by 20 cents if that helps. 
    • Or if it's grey, is it watery? Does it do it after you've been for like an hour long drive it will still do it, or just near the start of the trip? As GTS said, does it seem like oil (blue), water (white/grey) or fuel (black)? Sometimes the colour can be hard to see clearly too for what it is, as GTS says, what's it smell like?
    • I wonder if part of it has to do with when you've each bought the kits. I honestly have the feeling that the silicon joiners in the 2000s were actually better quality than most of what you can find these days. Even in the same brands. Everyone racing to the cheapest price while still trying to make profit means lower quality parts. For coolant, I personally would be going with rubber, OR, converting the radiator and engine to use the huge AN fittings hose for radiators.
    • If shift solenoid A is bad, that explains limp mode --- now you're in the same position as I mentioned previously, in that the next step is to confirm loom/wiring integrity from TCU to gearbox connector with a multimeter (the TCU cannot detect a broken wire, which can happen ..ie; rodent damage, loom rubbed through)...and then finally measure resistance (at the gearbox connector) for shift solenoid A ... ...once you confirm shift solenoid A is bad (open circuit, really low or greater than 40ohm resistance), then it's a job ; you have buy a complete solenoid set, get under the car and drop transmission oil pan, and remove valvebody assembly (the solenoids sit on top), replace solenoid set, and reassemble....it's not exactly a fun task, but readily doable.
    • Is it oil smoke or fuel smoke? They smell different.
×
×
  • Create New...