Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

so I'm dragging my road whore up the gut from Victoria to Queensland, although im super keen on the drive, im only 90% confident it'll make it up and back without a hitch so ive planned on putting a few steps in the way of "preventive maintenance" if u will. i'd just like to hear all your opinions to see if iv missed something or to check sumin, this is what im plaining on or already/done 

 

 

change engine/transmission fluid + filter 

buy new (i know its expensive) OR just take out and clean injectors + fuel rail 

already got new plugs 

just finished reconditioning the distributor 

change diff oil????

remove ac condenser (doesnt do shit anyway) for better air flow in engine bay

new suspension bushings worth it? (some of them are as crusty as balls)

 

 

   

change all Oils & filters, check coolant and make sure its bled properly, spark plugs, brake fluid & check pads, inspect hoses and belts. Windscreen wipers too
I drove my HG gts from Adelaide to Townsville after sitting in a shed for 22years just did the above and had no major dramas.......

  • Thanks 1

Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.

  • Thanks 1

Also check your battery health and tyre pressure, and I'd take a spare fan belt.

I'd also google the tilt tray dudes for places like Albury, Dubbo, Moree, Goonawindi, etc just in case.  Easier to do it now than trying to do it on the side of the road with no service or a swarm of flys/mozzies etc. 

On 15/03/2021 at 7:55 PM, robbo_rb180 said:

change all Oils & filters, check coolant and make sure its bled properly, spark plugs, brake fluid & check pads, inspect hoses and belts. Windscreen wipers too
I drove my HG gts from Adelaide to Townsville after sitting in a shed for 22years just did the above and had no major dramas.......

yeah cheers man i should be fine

21 hours ago, GTSBoy said:

Check all the small coolant hoses around the inlet manifold, heater hoses, etc, and the big rad hoses to see if any are likely to to explode and leave you stranded with a cooked engine. Take along a selection of heater hose and small bore hose and some clamps if you're even more paranoid, plus coolant, etc.

might just cas some of my hoses are a bit crusty

17 hours ago, tridentt150v said:

Also check your battery health and tyre pressure, and I'd take a spare fan belt.

I'd also google the tilt tray dudes for places like Albury, Dubbo, Moree, Goonawindi, etc just in case.  Easier to do it now than trying to do it on the side of the road with no service or a swarm of flys/mozzies etc. 

ye ye might just do that man, cheers 

3 minutes ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

especially if they're the original parts, they're due for refresh

yeah i think the water pump has been renewed when the last owner had it, but the other two could prolly do, ill google to see how much works involved and what not cas im kinda leaving in less than 2 weeks. you know of any good after market fuel pumps? or should i stick to oem 

 

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Personal experience. Those f**kers burn. And are actually a PITA to put out. Next time I walk down the back, I'll snap a photo of what the inside of the bonnet looks like when that thing ignites. PS, powder fire extinguishers are useless on that stuff too as it's fibrous and when it ignites, it starts to pull apart. And you end up just blowing powder through a sieve effectively.   Like the big thing is, if it's fire resistant, it's job is to stop what burning? The METAL above it? It's just to try keep heat off the bonnet paint work.
    • Oh man, sorry, $60.00000000... 😛
    • That's more or less what he meant. What it really means is that you do not have to go full crazy on the build. Don't need the best oil pump, expensive rods & pistons, big cams, etc. You can upgrade whatever you want instead of using stock level items, but you don't have to. Having said that - any time an RB is opened up, if anything is getting replaced, I think the opportunity should be taken to do all the sensible upgrades. Pistons, rods, pump, etc.
    • February update 🙂 We managed to get the very last 1/18th "Extra Scale" cars stock available from bookstores in Kyoto. These are actually the last ones and will not be restocked again! Hachette Collections Japan have not decided on a release date for these or other models in the series, so for the time being these are all there are available new.  These are showing up on Yahoo auctions at inflated prices already (especially the Celica and NSX) so get yours now at a very reasonable price before they disappear! Stock quantities: NA1 Honda NSX - 1 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1990-na1-honda-nsx 1973 Toyota Celica LB 2000GT - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1973-toyota-celica-lb-2000gt 1968 Mazda Cosmo Sport - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1968-mazda-cosmo-sport 1970 KPGC10 Nissan Skyline 2000GT-R - 2 left: https://www.oemsoko.co.jp/products/1-18-extra-scale-1970-kpgc10-nissan-skyline-2000gt-r
    • When you say basic rebuild, you mean an oem rebuild?
×
×
  • Create New...