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Just want to make sure I have this right before I put power to the car. Notice in the instructions and what they sent me, the difference is the pigtail coming out the wb1 can for the actual wideband sensor vs  in the instructions there is no pigtail only the 4 pin ports.....I have ordered the can box extension as I figured I would need it to run the haltech screen through a can port. I know I should of got an elite but I got what I got and want to make it work so please only helpful comments just wanna get my car started!

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Or do I actually have it right and I can use that extra port for another CAN system like my screen? I feel like there is another way to run the haltech screen I see some guys do it through a obd2 port on newer cars, maybe there’s a way to wire to the pins on the auxiliary port. Just a little help I’m a total newb with this haltech stuff.

Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. 

The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. 

You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. 

Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.

  • Thanks 1
4 hours ago, Murray_Calavera said:

Everything looks right in the photo of your setup. 

The WB1 has 2 CAN ports on it so you can daisy-chain it with other CAN devices. You could use the second CAN port to connect your dash. 

You'll only run into issues when you want to install an additional device, say an I/O box, then you'll need a CAN hub. 

Just so you know, the Haltech CAN hub works with the Platinum Pro (this thing https://www.haltech.com/tag/can-hub/). I don't know if you ordered the can box because you thought the hub wouldn't work with the platinum ecu.

first thanks alot that was a gangster answer. dude this is so crazy that you send this because i accidently ordered the one for the elite like the one you posted, then got mad that i ordered the wrong one and ordered the can box for the platinum haha. so i have both. i am such a  newb but definitely learning. i couldn't of asked for a better answer your a hell of a chap mate 5 gold stars for you goof fella. thanks

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

2 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

first thanks alot that was a gangster answer. dude this is so crazy that you send this because i accidently ordered the one for the elite like the one you posted, then got mad that i ordered the wrong one and ordered the can box for the platinum haha. so i have both. i am such a  newb but definitely learning. i couldn't of asked for a better answer your a hell of a chap mate 5 gold stars for you goof fella. thanks

No worries mate! 

I've always found Haltech to be very good, I bet if you speak with them they'll refund/exchange the CAN box you don't need. 

On 15/03/2021 at 3:11 PM, Duncan said:

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

thanks again duncan. cheers always a good help

i am now trying to find out the best power wire to tap into for the red 12v wire coming out the wb1 i was thinking of using my old maf power wire. any suggestions?

 

On 15/03/2021 at 3:11 PM, Duncan said:

I don't run the haltech WB but I do have platinum pro, io expander (because you need it for e85 sensor in RBs), can expander, smartwire, IC3 and IQ7 dash. As I understand it the only trick with the WB module is you need to use a separate 12v and earth due to the current the WB heater draws, whereas all other CAN devices can run off the internal ECU power supply (which is why they supply that adapter cable with the 12v and earth running off them.

Yes the CAN plug is different from Plat Pro to Elite, but if you put the adapter first (as you have above in the pic), I'm pretty sure you can then run the more convenient Elite style CAN hub with the DTM-4 connectors; the protocol is the same only the plugs are different. And yes, when you order IC7 you can choose either OBD (which you don't have with Plat Pro unless you've added it) or Haltech CAN (DTM-4)

also duncan can you post a link to which smart wire you bought and harness. i am going to purchase that racepack smart wire box from haltech and harness i just don't know which smart wire harness i need. and also if you have any suggestions on where you picked up power with that 12v source wire coming out the wb1, cheers

 

pretty sure the MAF is 5v not 12 so NFG. Also pretty sure haltech stopped selling smartwire because they sell nexus now, and dont support their old products. you should be able to get one more eaily from racepack in the us anyway.

I don't know how much power the WB heater draws. I used a separate 10a circuit from the smartwire which is of no use to you :)

When the wideband sensor is cold, from memory it pulls about 2 amps to warm up quickly then drops right off when it's up to temperature. 

I just threw a fused relay in the boot (so on ignition, the wideband gets battery voltage), it's been happily feeding my wideband for years without issue.

  • Thanks 1

i just picked up 12v from the cigarettte lighter power wire see how that works for now till i get some fancier stuff setup in my trunk. thanks again let me know if this was a bad idea im pretty sure that cigarette power wire is good to go for a 12v source. ran the ground to a bolt by the shifter.

12 hours ago, BK said:

No worries it's fused at 15A on cig

hey ben long time. yeah i figured that would be fine good to get some conformation tho.  ive almost got this stupid car finished. tig welding and crap taking me forever but ill get there.

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