Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe. Just hoping someone might be able to help me out with what sort of kw/psi I would be able to push through the de without sending a rod to the moon.

I got a pretty stock kit off a DET with a few upgraded bits.

- All factory piping, intercooler, fuel rail, intake mani and throttle body, exhaust mani, 3" dump through to xforce exhaust.

- High-flowed factory turbo (20psi)

- Bosch 1000cc injectors

- Apexi FC with controller

I know a det can push 500rwhp without upgrading internals but cause of higher comp in the DE I don't know what I should be pushing out of it. Any help would be greatly appreciated, I would still like to daily it but have a fair bit of go if I put the foot down.

Thankyou all

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482143-rb25det-neo-power/
Share on other sites

1 hour ago, R34AC said:

Hey all, just doing a +t conversion to my 25de R34 coupe

Well you have come to the right place! Welcome. Its been done to death previously on this forum. Use the search function.

Rb25 de+t ignition maps.. Boost

just plug that in to search function and choose from 10,000 hits

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

As a serious answer

500rwhp (372kw) is not really that reasonable long term under heavy abuse (track work). I wouldn't push any stock RB that hard unless you're comfortably happy to rebuild/know a guy/have patience for it.

For the non turbo motor, I've heard similar numbers, but given it has higher comp I would just tune the car on 98 (or 93/91 as I suspect you're not Australian), and let knock be your guide.

E85 is good, but regular petrol does act like a bit of a sanity check.

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

As a serious answer

500rwhp (372kw) is not really that reasonable long term under heavy abuse (track work). I wouldn't push any stock RB that hard unless you're comfortably happy to rebuild/know a guy/have patience for it.

For the non turbo motor, I've heard similar numbers, but given it has higher comp I would just tune the car on 98 (or 93/91 as I suspect you're not Australian), and let knock be your guide.

E85 is good, but regular petrol does act like a bit of a sanity check.

Im in QLD Australia, the previous owner of the kit only ran it on e85 and it would still be my daily, ive just heard so many different numbers thrown around that I really don't know how far to go with a tune without blowing something up, I know I have the parts capable of pushing 400+ but I'm not sure if the internals could keep up with it.

33 minutes ago, R34AC said:

just heard so many different numbers thrown around that I really don't know how far to go with a tune without blowing something up, I

That's because there are a wild amount of variables, so the actual number doesn't exist. How would it?

2 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

That's because there are a wild amount of variables, so the actual number doesn't exist. How would it?

Im not after a specific number im just after a generally safe area where the internals won't be under so much pressure they break but also has some go if I wanted to put the foot down, I know it can make 400 but im not sure if 400 is safe because de comp is so high. I have the supporting power parts but if my internals can't do more than 350 on 10psi reliably then I don't know what I can put through it. Some people have said it'll do 400 on 20psi while others have said no more than 230 on 7psi. I never thrash my car as to me it's way too precious to me lol. I've just always had a large margin between what people say is good for it, that's why im hoping someone who has done it before would be able to tell me what I can and can't do with it cause I'm still learning all this sort of stuff and need a bit of help.

2 minutes ago, Rusty Nuts said:

I was serious Greg, trying to encourage self education before asking the universe.

I do appreciate the help, I just can't afford to buy a whole new engine if I go with a handful of people that say blast 50million psi through it. I've done some googling but again it's all very different for everyone and I'm not someone to flog the engine, it gets me to / from work and cruising through town on the weekends.

2 hours ago, Rusty Nuts said:

I was serious Greg, trying to encourage self education before asking the universe.

Sorry, I didn't mean to imply you weren't serious

That said

Searching the internet does lead you to believe 370kw is "safe, for years bro" and it is not always that case, or that simple. People's use cases vary so very drastically. Honestly NA+T I'd shoot for something like 240kw with a manual gearbox and highflow OEM looking turbo and be like yep go enjoy car.

However if you can't afford to live without the car/can't afford a rebuild/don't have another motor then Step 1, 2, 3, 4, and 5, is obtain a backup car/work towards an engine ready to go. 

Have a backup plan. These are not cars you can drop off at your local ultratune and expect a broken motor to be replaced within a week.

2 hours ago, Kinkstaah said:

Searching the internet does lead you to believe 370kw is "safe, for years bro"

Hence why I suggested the search on this forum, go back ten years and the crazy ideas were getting shot down. Go back three months and some new ideas and old were punted around. Its all in the archive here, plus you get to read GTSBoy's remarks all over again ( Warning: these remarks are intended to offend the "can I put an XR6 turbo on my N/A, will the gearbox handle 800hp crowd" )

Just remembered the member to check out is DatsunBanana he drives an R34de+t auto and is keen on the subject, also check out 666Dan's legendary thread.  

How to turbo your N/A

By 666DAN, February 2, 2004 in Naturally Aspirated Performance

Edited by Rusty Nuts
additional information

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • It still combines inches with mm, especially when you have .5 inches involved, and mm and inches that can go in either direction. This would give a clear idea on both sides of the rim, right away, with no arithmetic. Even better if somebody gives you the dimensions of the arch of multiple cars. i.e GTR may be 125mm, a A80 Supra may be 117mm, or something along those lines. Yes, you can 'know' that going from a 10in rim to a 10.5in rim with the same offset moves both sides about 6mm, but you still have to 'know' that and do the math. Often it's combined. People are going from 9.5 +27 to 10.5 +15. You may do the math to know it, but if it was going from (I had to go look it up to be sure) 241mm/2 - 27 - 93.5mm from the center line to (more math) 266/2 - 15 (118mm) from the center line. Versus 93mm vs 118mm. It's right there. If you know you have a GTT with 100mm guards you can see right away that one is close to flush and the other absolutely won't work. And when someone says "Oh the GTR is 120mm" suddenly you see that the 10.5 +15 is about perfect. (or you go and buy rims with approximately 118mm outward guard space) I think it's safe to say that given one of the most common questions in all modified cars is "How do offsets work" and "How do I know if wheels will fit on my car" that this would be much simpler... Of course, nothing will really change and nobody is going to remanufacture wheels and ditch inches and offset based on this conversation :p We'll all go "18x9+30 will line up pretty close to the guards for a R34 GTT (84mm)" but 'pretty close' is still not really defined (it is now!) and if you really care you still have go measure. Yes it depends on camber and height and dynamic movement, but so do all wheels no matter what you measure it for.
    • But offsets are simple numbers. 8" wheel? Call it 200mm, near enough. +35 offset? OK, so that means the hub face is that far out from the wheel centreline. Which is 2s of mental arithmetic to get to 65mm to outer edge and 135mm to inner. It's hardly any more effort for any other wheel width or offset. As I said, I just close my eyes and can see a picture of the wheel when given the width and offset. That wouldn't help me trust that a marginal fitment would actually go in and clear everything, any more than the supposedly simple numbers you're talking about. I dunno. Maybe I just automatically do numbers.
    • Sure! But you at least have simple numbers instead of 8.5 inches +/mm, relative to your current rims you do maths with as well, and/or compare with OEM diameter, which you also need to know/research/confirm..
    • Uniclutch install vid, RB Track edition.   Highlight reel is very drive able, not noisy but still heavy with the clutch master he has.      
×
×
  • Create New...