Clip and a wire r32 GTR

[MoMnDadGTR]

Posted this on my thread and I’m done pissing around I need to get some sleep so just wondering what this clip is. A lot of stuff was removed from the car so may not be important. And the second picture is a wire that’s hooked up as a ground that may be a power wire when I test it, it has only 5 volts. Last video on my build thread “ Canada gtr ready for action” you can here it popping away and that’s why I’m just making sure this wiring is right first before we continue tuning as the trigger needs to be setup stil. Thanks good mates. Help the dumb canadian.

[GTSBoy]

Dash gauge MAP sensor. Sensor mounts on that stud behind your hand in that photo.

[MoMnDadGTR]

19 minutes ago, GTSBoy said:

Dash gauge MAP sensor. Sensor mounts on that stud behind your hand in that photo.

hey buddy long time cheers thanks for the help. do i need this for it to run right. im assuming you can tell my setup already single turbo 6466 only using the on board map sensor from the platinum pro. cheers thanks again good mate.

 

[MoMnDadGTR]

and if anyone can comment on that wire i have as a ground and confirm its not a power wire. thanks boys.

[Murray_Calavera]

4 hours ago, MoMnDadGTR said:

hey buddy long time cheers thanks for the help. do i need this for it to run right. im assuming you can tell my setup already single turbo 6466 only using the on board map sensor from the platinum pro. cheers thanks again good mate.

 

No you don't need it for the car to run right. Without it plugged into the sensor, all that will happen is the stock boost gauge won't work (the sensor doesn't talk to the ECU. It talks to the dash only). 

[Duncan]

But hard to tell with the other wire without more context.

However. Are you running the standard ignitor pack for the coils? If so make sure the earth in that loom (car side of the ignitor pack) is well earthed, I earth it on the ignitor itself which I bolt to the cam cover. Easy to forget/get wrong when you are not running a coil pack cover.

Also, there is one 3 pin connector (just like the one you have shown) at the rear of the engine that can be hooked up incorrectly (ie, the engine loom has both the male and female parts of the connector, and the either the car or engine sub loom, (can't remember which) also has a matching connector. As a result it is possible to physically connect the wrong connector pairs. Bad explanation, but easy to check with the car in front of you

[MoMnDadGTR]

5 minutes ago, Duncan said:

But hard to tell with the other wire without more context.

However. Are you running the standard ignitor pack for the coils? If so make sure the earth in that loom (car side of the ignitor pack) is well earthed, I earth it on the ignitor itself which I bolt to the cam cover. Easy to forget/get wrong when you are not running a coil pack cover.

Also, there is one 3 pin connector (just like the one you have shown) at the rear of the engine that can be hooked up incorrectly (ie, the engine loom has both the male and female parts of the connector, and the either the car or engine sub loom, (can't remember which) also has a matching connector. As a result it is possible to physically connect the wrong connector pairs. Bad explanation, but easy to check with the car in front of you

hey duncan i totally understand thanks for the reply. i am runnning the r35 prp coilpack conversion. im going to check those plugs at back of engine when i head back to shop. here's a better picture of my setup.  the wire im tryign to figure out if its ground or power reads 5v when i test it and its located right above where the hicas module mounts on the frame rale(mines deleted and gone in picture) kind of where the fuse box used to be. im almost positive its a ground but anyone with a stock r32 can look around that area and see this wire it comes right out the stock harness and is a big beefy black wire.

[MoMnDadGTR]

Here’s another picture of that wire, like I said if you have a r32 try to find this wire in your bay and help me out lol. It looks a lot like the grounds that goes to the alternator but it’s not that wire because that one is already hooked up.

[MoMnDadGTR]

It’s right by the stock fuse box location 

[Duncan]

So just to be sure, you do have the + hooked up to the alternator, right? It is 4 wire; small eyelet is earth (goes to a m5 bolt into the body of the alternator), large eyelet (is meant to have a red rubber cover but might be missing) goes to the m6 stud on the alternator and the other 2 wires (exciter and voltage signal) go via the plug.

If you have earthed the alternator main outlet you should have seen sparks.....either when you earthed it or when you attached the battery + depending on order you did things. Also this partly depends on your exact 12v setup because from memory battery is in the boot now.

[r32-25t]

I know the wire you’re talking about and I’m pretty sure it’s an earth, may even be the other end of the earth attached to the alternator 

[MoMnDadGTR]

2 hours ago, r32-25t said:

I know the wire you’re talking about and I’m pretty sure it’s an earth, may even be the other end of the earth attached to the alternator 

hey mate great response. it is the other earth to the alternator by the way.  i think i just have a timing issue. cant get it to idle with the platinum pro. cheers good mate.

[MoMnDadGTR]

its something to do with my prp trigger kit, the timing keeps going crazy then it over fuels and fowls the plugs and dies. can check out my build thread and watch the video its at the end of the thread

 

[MoMnDadGTR]

2 hours ago, Duncan said:

So just to be sure, you do have the + hooked up to the alternator, right? It is 4 wire; small eyelet is earth (goes to a m5 bolt into the body of the alternator), large eyelet (is meant to have a red rubber cover but might be missing) goes to the m6 stud on the alternator and the other 2 wires (exciter and voltage signal) go via the plug.

If you have earthed the alternator main outlet you should have seen sparks.....either when you earthed it or when you attached the battery + depending on order you did things. Also this partly depends on your exact 12v setup because from memory battery is in the boot now.

yup your right duncan. i actually did a crazy thing was probably stupid to do this but i tied a long wire onto that cable i was trying to figure out if it was a ground or a power so i could reach the alternator main post(the big one for power), and i stripped the added wire so that only one little tiny wire was sticking out and slowly touched it to that power post and saw sparks instantly. i then knew it was a ground for sure. luckily i didnt fry the platinum pro anything at all, honestly wouldnt care i hate the platinum pro i wish i maned up and got the elite 2500 but oh well ill get this puke car running eventually

[r32-25t]

The elite 2500 makes diagnosis a lot easier then the platinum pro but if you don’t have uses for it’s extra features the platinum pro will do the job nicely. 
 

couple of things to check, lock the timing at 20° start the car and make sure it’s staying at 20 and also check in the ecu where the home signal is compared to the tooth, should be aiming for around 50%,

also have you scaled your injectors in the ecu? If you’re using the haltech base map it will be set for 440cc injectors 

And on top of all of that having bigger cams will lower vacuum at idle and move where the engine sits at idle on the map 

[MoMnDadGTR]

1 hour ago, r32-25t said:

The elite 2500 makes diagnosis a lot easier then the platinum pro but if you don’t have uses for it’s extra features the platinum pro will do the job nicely. 
 

couple of things to check, lock the timing at 20° start the car and make sure it’s staying at 20 and also check in the ecu where the home signal is compared to the tooth, should be aiming for around 50%,

also have you scaled your injectors in the ecu? If you’re using the haltech base map it will be set for 440cc injectors 

And on top of all of that having bigger cams will lower vacuum at idle and move where the engine sits at idle on the map 

answers like this are well respectable mate. thank you. i copy and pasted that to my tuner. although.....i visually could see the spacing on the bracket for the crank trigger was incorrect and it was rubbing on the crank pulley....so maybe vibration just not allowinga  good signal cause this issue is super wierd...and yeah we have set the injectors for the 1200s. will keep posted can also follow this better on my build thread Canada gtr ready for action. cheers

 

[MoMnDadGTR]

once we fix this crank trigger and set it up proper i think we should be golden...ish