Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

As a long time reader I thought I should contribute and share my "build". Had the car for nearly 4 years now and was purchased and has been used as a street car. Now starting to take it to some track days and having tons of fun its starting to turn into more of a track based car. 

Basic information. Built RB25 with a GTX3582R gen 2 with the lovely T51R mod. Oil cooler, surge tank and a plazmaman plenum have recently been installed in preparation for the track. Front APG BBK with factory calipers and DBA T3 on the rear. Unfortunately still a stock 25 turbo box which is starting to show its age. Basic suspension setup to give a decent allignment for now. 

Plans for the car. Basically I enjoy working on it and doing stupid stuff most people wouldn't bother with so i want to clean and tidy the car up and hopefully do some more track days and see how long it lasts before copping a yellow sticker really. 

 

 

20201205_153830.jpg

20210213_190247.jpg

  • Like 5
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482183-georges-r33-gtst-build/
Share on other sites

So with the last few days off finally decided it was time to paint my boot so im not ashamed of it anymore. decided to go with QX1 white pearl to match the cam covers and its the colour I plan on painting the car one day. 

Removed all components and started to fix up the surface rust which thankfully there wasn't much of. removed the sound deadening from under wheel well and battery tray to give a decent finish and im a fan of my car being loud so I wasn't going to miss it. 

The battery tray was painted in wrinkle black and turned out better then I was expecting, the white pearl didn't pop as I was hoping but I finally feel like I can actually look at the boot and not feel like I own a shit box.

20210102_113540.jpg

20210403_160129.jpg

20210404_160330.jpg

  • Like 5
  • 3 weeks later...
On 4/21/2021 at 5:13 AM, reaper said:

Wow that came up super clean, well done

Thanks mate, surprised that the white actually looked good. Now it's just the struggle of keeping it clean ahahaha

  • Haha 1
On 4/28/2021 at 6:11 PM, maddy400r33 said:

Looking clean, does it let in much water or have you resealed or replaced sealant around boot edge. 

Its never let in water even when I give her a wash the water never makes it into the boot itself fortunately so I just left all sealants as they were.

  • 5 months later...

so slight update on the car, installed a set of hypertune billet cam covers along with a PRP billet diff hat to go with the new Nismo 1.5 way diff. finally sorted my power steering setup with a koyorad oil cooler and a new reservoir to keep everything cool on track. a new IRP short shifter was installed and wow that totally changed the feel of the box and looks very tidy. had an awesome weekend at powercruise recently where the car was flawless but upon a gearbox oil change i found a tooth off an unknown gear so now the plan is to find a dog engagement gear set to install once the box does finally let go. if anyone has any good or bad experiences with gear sets and companies that do them as of late please let me know as i am very stuck rn ahahaha

received_1216760138746746.jpeg

1-25.jpg

On 10/18/2021 at 9:27 PM, Neil said:

Love the build George. Did the car come with the top radiator guide or did you buy it?. I'm in need of one.

Cheers

Neil.

thanks Neil, i bought it from carbonetics over in Sydney definitely tidies up the bay nicely   

On 10/19/2021 at 7:09 AM, Komdotkom said:

Interested to hear about this shifter, did you really pay $1k for it or do you have a connection for a more competitive price?

https://www.carmodsaustralia.com.au/short-shifter-5-speed-gearbox-skyline-r33-r34-gts

 

i bought it direct from IRP just make sure you don't pay VAT as you don't have to and if you have any issues email them, they are very helpful. https://www.irp.lt/individual-racing-parts-product/short-shifter-nissan-skyline-r33r34-gtsgts-t-5-speed-gearbox/

On 10/20/2021 at 1:38 PM, r33cruiser said:

Boot looks great mate.

 

I'm thinking of doing something similar. The images look really blurry for some reason but did you get it done professionally or rattlecan it?

 

thanks mate, yeh im pretty sure i uploaded them from my phone which is why they are blurry but not too sure honestly. i just got some good paint match rattle cans made up and did it with about 6 cans, 3 of the base and 3 of the 2nd layer of the colour

  • Like 1
  • 2 years later...

so after a while without an update some things have changed, unfortunately the stock rb25 box said no more so after a lot of back and forward decided to just go for it and get a samsonas 6 speed for the car so that kick started the next round of "while im there i may aswell do this".

while saving up some more and waiting for the box i decided to make the car look less like a nice street car and into another stupid race car so of course the interior got stripped and painted in QX1 white pearl to match the boot of course, all sound deadener was removed but of course i didnt want to do it the easy way and use dry ice i wanted to use a scraper and a hammer... didnt take long to realise this was a mistake but for some reason i continued with this method but hey we got there in the end. cleaned up all the glue and prepped the surface to be painted in the back yard. 

image.thumb.jpeg.975a1aa12af5cb80e63b24ef138159e5.jpeg20220810_155607.thumb.jpg.ef362381f5b0505dfee707f1383d9a02.jpg20220810_155605.thumb.jpg.a8ee6ea0565690ccb54fbcc7dc7d81bf.jpgit came out honestly better than i expected as im no painter and it was done during a nice rainy period which made it oh so much easier but certainly no professional job, then it was time to install the agi bolt in half cage and a test fit of the new to me bride seat and all in all i was pretty happy with how it all turned out and got me very excited for the samsonas to arrive and start the install.

20220815_073833.thumb.jpg.d5ce0101613e73af6d2e681c3adf599c.jpg20220815_073839.thumb.jpg.1353bbcdf9ef84efaef7f55603193a96.jpg20220816_181252.thumb.jpg.c547e62161af2b0402cb2eab64a909a2.jpg

 

  • Like 3

finally after 3 months or so the box rocked up and while i would not be installing it anytime soon due to an upcoming surgery and 3 months off work it was still an awesome time and had me pumped for the upcoming build process, and while i waited gave me time to research all the other parts i wanted or could convince myself i needed. it was time for a new and updated ecu and retire the old vipec which had served me well, so i purchased an emtron kv8 to give me some nice smooth shift cuts and better utilise some more sensors.

received_488272993221832.thumb.jpeg.50513e9111063ffd10f7c6e31e5660eb.jpegIMG_20230406_114152_335.thumb.webp.02e5a657f8447436981ba0090986cc2e.webp

 

but then the time came to install the box, managed to grab an auto box and use the bellhousing off of it and bolt it to the samsonas, was a surprisingly easy install considering its a "universal" box some light love taps needed and we made a custom gearbox mount it all fit up really well to my surprise,

20230405_183045.thumb.jpg.29987cdf21545b7d601ba9877cf80243.jpg20230406_155246.thumb.jpg.25f2ecb1db5ce4e2fa7199630ee9536b.jpg

part of the update was to remove the silicon joiners which kept giving me grief and install the new plazmaman pro series intercooler and shiny new bosch 72mm DBW TB with some red plazmaclamps for both the hot and cold side to eliminate the blowing off issue and clean up the bay abit, decided to go with 3' piping which was a tight fit but with some great work from the fab guy fits awesome.

IMG_20230621_153755_202.thumb.webp.0357c67df41e97403600138353099e10.webp20230802_163516.thumb.jpg.d4d2245671ed20061b72b335aa2e9b30.jpg

  • Like 4

so i was having issues with blow by with the new hypertune covers especially compared to the rb26 covers with the baffles due to the hypertune covers having no internal baffling, thankfully PRP came out with a nice smooth cam cover with extensive internal baffling which would hopefully improve the blow by issues i was having at the track so another colour change was in order 

image.thumb.jpeg.7e71c6777d1398047e3b31893633caa4.jpeg

i had found a 2nd hand titanium exhaust of an r33 on marketplace so i had purchased this but for some reason it just didn't seem to work out on the car so it was time to brainstorm what i wanted to do, someone jokingly suggested a side pipe to me and after watching some skyline/rb side pipe videos Aswell as seeing/hearing Laine Brandis's 32 in Perth and WTAC it was rather stupidly decided i wanted a side pipe, we weighed up how we wanted it to look being to stick out past the body or a twin pipe but c'mon that was just silly i wanted a tame looking side pipe ahahah so after some awesome welding and not much in the way of keeping the noise down its fair to say its loud and i love it not sure my neighbours do but hey track car right?

image.thumb.jpeg.d7760a73f0a8943b038fb57b29cc9ee1.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.0d06d150427147a3461ac52847d9f5eb.jpegIMG_20230613_164759_141.thumb.webp.e738195b40dd45c1207449f165d89485.webp

 

had the driveshaft made up deciding to go with a 2 piece as i had heard of people having issues with a single piece, made to "suit 1000hp" it was nice and chunky and certainly wont be testing the strength of it. the it was time for the really important jobs like relocating the kill switch and installing the emtron keypad along the the ed7 dash with the mako motorsports mount.

image.thumb.jpeg.2e5d2f7eba1d5a234c52755c1c5489d0.jpegimage.thumb.jpeg.485721e079bc0e5c00c5381f0c47d660.jpeg

 

after checking the bank account i now regrettably decided to try and utilise the stock harness for the emtron and make a seperate harness for the sensors much to the sparkies displeasure but he got there and it was time for the first start, with so much changed and so much done by myself we were all abit nervous but when it fired up i had a huge smile on my face and all felt worth it

 

 

 

 

  • Like 4

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Add to this... What blew the fuse too? If a circuit feeding power to the coils was blown, how were the coils even functioning to let the car start?   There is some seriously wrong wiring in that car for certain, and I'm betting there is some melted cables somewhere, but I can't explain the 30v either, unless there is something back feeding on that power line that has a dodgy power system and the electronics are giving it hell.
    • This is typically the case with such threads. What I cannot quite get my head around is where a reading above 12V (or 13.8 or 14.x or whatever the maximum achievable voltage might actually be in that specific car) comes from. 25V or 30V should be completely impossible. There's no way to create it. Hard to answer that question. It will literally depend on whether the current tune relies on the values as set. I'd guess it probably does. ie, the real base pressure being 49 means that the flowrate through the injectors will be higher than if it was 43.5. The Haltech's modelling should be handling that, but because it thinks the pressure is only 43.5, then..... I dunno. It should be thinking that it will be injecting less fuel with each pulse duration than is actually happening. So, something is definitely not-as-it-should-be, but specifically what that is is beyond my abilities to imagine. Someone like Dose who spends more time with Haltechs might have a better thought.
    • Bit of a late reply here as me and my wife have been really busy with new born twins. I finally got these issues fixed and it was something really stupid that caused all of this 🤦‍♂️... After alot of mucking around with trying to figure out what is causing these issues, I back probed one of the R35 coils on the power 12v supply, with the engine running it got 25v! And I thought, hang on..., this isn't normal. Measured my battery with the engine running to check for over charge from the alternator and it wasn't that. So then I dissconnected the R35 PRP coil harness and backprobed the power supply on the engine loom where the ignition coil harness connects, with the key on ignition (engine off) it measured 30v! So then I had to trace where that high voltage was coming from and it lead me to the brown relay "ECM & IGN coil relay" inside the cabin next to the ECU on the passanger wall. This relay feeds power to the ECM and ignition coils. Tried swapping it with another same relay. nah still 30v.. coming from the 2 green/white wires in the brown relay. So then I set my multi meter to the beep continuity mode and probed every fuse on the fuse box inside the cabin to try and find this high voltage power source. Wasn't any of the fuses inside the cabin. Then probed all the fuses in the engine bay and BAM, got my power source that was a 10AMP fuse called "ENG CONT". Pulled the fuse out, and what do you know... it was blown. 🤦‍♂️  So then I quickly replaced it with a new 10AMP fuse, started the car and yeah haha [insert extreme face palm]... The RPM blimping thing went away, car idles smoothly now like what it was before. I swear! I checked all my fuses with my test light twice before I created this forum thread. I think, maybe because one side of that faulty 10A fuse lit up on my test light, I must have thought it was still ok and not blown. But now I know to have both sides light up on the test light when checking fuses... I hate diagnosing electricals.... I'd take mechanical problems over electrical problems any day🤣. Drove the car around my suburb with the engine up to operating temp and it runs fine like before. However, I notice that my fuel pressure is still at 49psi. So I'm thinking this must be normal for my system as I've upgraded the stock fuel pump to a Walbro 255L/h with a constant 12v mod.  But anyway, I'm just glad to have my daily back on the road! Thanks everyone for the replies on this thread, all sorted now! One thing I want to ask you tuner guys, my base fuel pressure on the haltech main settings are set to 43.5psi from default (my tuner must have not checked the fuel pressure maybe when tuning my car?). Do I set it to what it actually is idling on at 49psi? Or just leave it ("if it aint broke, don't fix it/leave it")?  
    • The max they would go for me is 50.
    • That cannot have been a fun set of drilling. The stock "baffle" looks identical to rb26, I just cut fuel cell foam to fit the full length under the baffle.
×
×
  • Create New...