Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

After a long time from the car i decided to start putting it back together and complete the singel turbo conversion on my r33 gtr, with a 6boost and a EFR 8374. Well i got stuck on the DIY downpipe when i couldn't remember if the engine should be in "level" when it sits on the engine mounts and with the gearbox installed. I guess it should be but I'm not sure so that is my question.

With the engine in the car without the gearbox, can i use a "bubble level" on the intake to see that its in level or is there a better place to use rather than the intake? Or should it be tipping "front / back"?

As it sits now i have the engine on the engine mounts and woodblocks under the rear of the sump to keep it in level.

The concern is when i put the gearbox back on and throw it back in again and the engine was supposed to be leveled but wasn't that it ends with the downpipe no longer fitting.... trying to avoid that.

Best Regards

Pierre

  • 4 weeks later...
On 4/8/2021 at 12:57 PM, Ben C34 said:

Engines don't need to sit level.

Make your exhaust out of flex entirely then no worries

 

If it fouls on anything when refitting with the gearbox, just bash a dent in it with a hammer.

But seriously, fabricate with the gearbox in also. It will help show you what room you've got further down to fit things where, as well as allow you to fabricate mounts that might attach to the gearbox etc.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Update: I got the magnet out. I bought 3 different flexible magnetic reach tools, but none of them worked. The magnet on the tip was all less than 2lbs of force, so i had to buy a special cylindrical magnet that had a pull force of 9lbs.  The magnet finally came in the mail yesterday, so i got under the car to get to work. The super strong magnet isn't that long, so i only have about 1 finger pinch lengths to hold it. I was so scared when i was going in the hole, that the 9lb magnet would just fly away inside the oil pan never to be seen again, but i had my butt cheeks clenched and finger gripped on that thing so tight, i managed to get it to suck the other magnet out.  It was a victory for me last night.         
    • Yep, pretty much what you said is a good summary. The aftermarket thing just attached to the rim, then has two lines out to valve stems, one to inner wheel, one to outer wheel. Some of the systems even start to air up as you head towards highway speed. IE, you're in the logging tracks, then as speeds increase it knows you're on tarmac and airs up so the driver doesn't even have to remember. I bet the ones that need driver intervention to air up end up seeing a lot more tyre wear from "forest pressures" in use on the highway!
    • Yes, but you need to do these type certifications for tuning parts. That is the absurd part here. Meaning tuning parts are very costly (generally speaking) as well as the technical test documentation for say a turbo swap with more power. It just makes modifying everything crazy expensive and complicated. That bracket has been lost in translation many years ago I assume, it was not there.
    • Hahaha, yeah.... not what you'd call a tamper-proof design.... but yes, with the truck setup, the lines are always connected, but typically they sit just inside the plane of the rear metal mudguards, so if you clear the guards you clear the lines as well. Not rogue 4WD tracks with tree branches and bushes everywhere, ready to hook-up an air hose. You can do it externally like a mod, but dedicated setups air-pressurize the undriven hubs, and on driven axles you can do the same thing, or pressurize the axles (lots of designs out there for this idea)... https://www.trtaustralia.com.au/traction-air-cti-system/  for example.... ..the trouble I've got here... wrt the bimmer ad... is the last bit...they don't want to show it spinning, do they.... give all the illusion that things are moving...but no...and what the hell tyre profile is that?...25??? ...far kernel, rims would be dead inside 10klms on most roads around here.... 😃
    • You're just describing how type certification works. Personally I would be shocked to discover that catalytic converter is not in the stock mounting position. Is there a bracket on the transfer case holding the catalytic converter and front pipe together? If so, it should be in stock position. 
×
×
  • Create New...