Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi guys need a huge help from you guys identify  a issue with my skyline r33 series 2

My issue is

My spark plug keeps getting fouled 

Car starts idling  and misfires  but when I put new plugs in it's alright for a day

I just installed new standard block  and head 

I have attached  a video of how it idles now 

Any help will be appreciated thanks in advance guys!

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482246-issues-with-my-r33-skyline/
Share on other sites

4 minutes ago, krishyy7 said:

The block and head is new just got put in last week 

As per your first post. That's not new info.

Also it's a weird thing to say. I think you mean to say the bottom end is rebuilt? It's not a new block is it?

 

Plugs foul by either runing rich,  burning oil or less likely too cold heat range.

2 minutes ago, Ben C34 said:

As per your first post. That's not new info.

Also it's a weird thing to say. I think you mean to say the bottom end is rebuilt? It's not a new block is it?

 

Plugs foul by either runing rich,  burning oil or less likely too cold heat range.

Also to add to that your breather setup is wrong and atmo blow off valve with maf sensor is not good. Both will  draw in umeterd air at idle but that makes it run lean, so not really related to the fouling problem.

 

What injectors are you using? Did you happen to change them or other stuff when the new engine went in?

3 hours ago, krishyy7 said:

The block is new just got put in last week

Yes, hence why I suggested that the rings were not bedded in properly. There is a procedure to make a new engine work properly. If you do not follow it, you will glaze the bores and you can forget about it every being any good after that.

7 hours ago, krishyy7 said:

Thanks Ben for the responds

Umm can you walk me through the proper step for the breather and the bov  

What do I need

I'm using the standard ones purple blueish ones

I changed new cosmetic headmaster and arp  studs also all new valve seals

 

No mate, I'm not going to type out info that is all over the place, but I will say your options are either factory style breather system (with oil seperotir if you like) or completely open to atmosphere. It can't be open on rocker and still be connected to pcv.

 

Bcpr6es for plugs. What are you using?

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • haha this shit box doesn't drink coolant, for now       Let me guess, they make heaps of power, use the car for straight line driving and don't care about noise
    • They’re so great that I know of someone pulling one out to go back to a sequential 
    • Hello everyone. I've recently started the research into R34 GTR front bits and running into eye watering prices. On the plus site it looks like some places make 'replacement' fender liners for these cars. At eye-watering-but-less than stock prices. I also noticed there's plenty of diffuser options available too. What I would like to know is if my following assumptions are correct. 1) The OEM guard liners are actually only 'half' the liner. They go together with the OEM brake vents which are a separate item which looks to be quite a large 'panel' that is part of the liner. The GTR bumper has bolt holes along the front. I assume the ones in the vent correspond to the ones the OEM liner does not have (circled?)   2) The V-Spec front diffuser supplants the brake ducts in the above item. I am assuming these still work with the guard liners as there's no alternate part that I'm aware of. I don't see how they go together, so I'm making the assumption that they have to, somehow. I know the center splash guard is different on the V-Spec (and is the price of the damn diffuser alone). How does the liner interact with this? 3) There's alternate front diffusers that do away with it all. Annoyingly, a lot of the clones and CF different ones... have no brake ducts on them. I like the idea of them though. My brakes get hot on the track. These alternate diffusers are a lot cheaper than plastic splash guards. I'm assuming you don't have to/aren't supposed to remove guard liners to run a diffuser. I suspect that quite a few people actually do not run the guard liner because with a front undertray you're getting a lot of 'splash' guarding anyway, and most people remove liners given they're probably running a pretty aggressive setup with a diffuser at the front. It would also be nice to know if anyone has ever run the 'reproduction' guard liners and know whether the fitment is OEM quality or "OEM Quality". Example: https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/356254671561 https://carbonetics.net/products/nissan-skyline-r34-gtr-plastic-front-wheel-arch-set Is this knowledge still around?
    • Really, effort is pretty low. You hand fistfuls of cash over to someone else and pick it up when done...   And at least this shitbox isn't drinking coolant right?  
    • And most chargers that most DIY people own would put bugger all power back into the battery between cylinders. I've always done it with jumper packs/second battery connected. And that's on any car.   Because race car, and wanting the lightness.  At least in an R33, putting a bigger battery in can at least help shift the weight balance backwards  
×
×
  • Create New...