R32 GTS-T Sedan

[Chopstick Tuner]

New to this site, thought I'd introduce myself, an Irishman living in the Brisbane area, and my car which is a 1989 Nissan Skyline R32 GTS-T Sedan, bought a few months ago as a pretty straight example but not a massive amount of mods. Plenty of plans for it in future but will be upgrading it slowly over time. 

Bought it with a RB20det and 5sp Manual, not heaps done to it but it has an Rb25 turbo, Front Mount Intercooler, Apexi Coilovers, and 300zx Wheels. 

Since buying it I've put in a Blitz triple core radiator, and Fenix twin 12" thermo fans after a lot of headache with the junk mishimoto sold me (would not recommend in the slightest). Hopefully soon change the wheels and add a BOV are the next items on the list. 

Thanks for looking 👌

Edited April 11, 2021 by Chopstick Tuner

[GTSBoy]

Welcome. But

38 minutes ago, Chopstick Tuner said:

add a BOV

Don't do this.

[Kinkstaah]

Let the man have his wooshie noises.

Note: Wooshie only applicable if using MAP based ECU. (or you plumb it back, losing some wooshie)

[MoMnDadGTR]

nice car mate looks to be in great shape and already has the 25. fit a few mates in there and go hammer some gears.  would look great with some r34 wheels or even some stock r32 gtr wheels.

[Chopstick Tuner]

On 11/04/2021 at 2:54 PM, GTSBoy said:

Welcome. But

Don't do this.

It's currently running no bov whatsoever, and I don't want the extra stress on my turbo 🙈 

[GTSBoy]

Well, 2 points about that need to be made.

1. The factory compressor bypass valve doesn't do very much to relieve stress on the turbo, largely because that is not why it is there. It is not really a BOV. Keep in mind that the factory boost pressure on R32 RB20s is only 10 psi, and on RB25s is only ~7 psi. This is not enough boost to justify a  "BOV" for the purposes of venting excess pressure in the intake tract.

The reality is that the factory "BOV" is a compressor bypass valve. It is intended to be open when there is some vacuum in the inlet manifold, so that the intake air can go around the compressor instead of through it. This unloads the compressor (so there is less power required to drive it) so that it can and will be spun up to a higher speed just under those "cruise" conditions than it would if the air had to go through the comp wheel. Thus, when you add throttle opening and would like some boost, it is closer to making boost than it would have been. It is simply a device for improving response. Which is exactly what people claim it is for, just with the wrong reasoning behind it.

2. You will barely notice the absence of the bypass valve and many people claim that they actually work better without it anyway.

So, don't panic. But fit a stocker if you like.

[Chopstick Tuner]

Slight update on this.... finally

 

Not much has changed except appearance and some maintenance to be honest, not planning on swapping out the engine until I have another one all done ready to drop in. 

But figured I'd post some pics since it's just looking heaps better with new wheels and coilovers. Valid reason, right? 

Current spec list just for the sake of it:

RB20DET running a (supposedly) R33 high flow turbo at 10psi - I noticed a steel wheel and know nothing else about the turbo lol but it pulls pretty nice actually. 

Car has; adjustable caster arms, cusco I believe. Adjustable front upper camber arms, unknown brand. R33 gtst/R32 GTR size front brakes, 296mm. Hicas delete including lock out bar and non-hicas power steering pump. HKS exhaust system, nice note not obnoxious. Blitz rad and 12" electric fans. Fitted a triple gauge holder from boosted international in the single din slot over the radio and climate control, with just boost, water temp and oil temp gauges, had previously fitted an AEM oil pressure gauge which relieved some worries I had when the factory one showed barely any oil pressure. 

Car now sits on BC gold coilovers (which need to go a tad lower), Work CR Kai wheels - 17x8 +34 rear, 17x7 +34 front with 15mm spacers wrapped in Bridgestone RE003s all round. 

Next on the agenda is mostly maintenance over mods, such as the dba rotors I'm already waiting on, tie rod ends etc and then change the alternator to an LS alternator.