Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi team

So my R32 has a lock bar in the rear, and recently changed out the power steering pump for a non hicas one.

At first my steering was mildly heavier but still workable. After a short period (hours) i seem to have lost all power steering... 🙃

 

Any ideas what to start looking for?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482276-r32-lost-power-steering/
Share on other sites

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first.

But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die.

You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

 

  • Thanks 1

Zero power assistance is stupidly heavy and would need to be mechanical failure; belt off or no fluid in the system. I would guess you are not quite there and just have "very heavy" steering?

As above, i would start by checking the power steering solenoid is getting its signal from the hicas brain. It is a pwm signal and you can probe it on a dedicated pin on the consult port - a bit more convenient than back probing the connector on the rack. If you have a scope you can see the pwm duty or just use dvm to measure the voltage. The workshop manual has a diagnostic procedure for this. Its a few years ago but from memory 30% duty or 4v is what you are looking for.

  • Thanks 1
  • 1 year later...
On 4/15/2021 at 10:23 PM, J.sutton said:

Hi team

So my R32 has a lock bar in the rear, and recently changed out the power steering pump for a non hicas one.

At first my steering was mildly heavier but still workable. After a short period (hours) i seem to have lost all power steering... 🙃

 

Any ideas what to start looking for?

bruv dealing with a similar issue at a drift event ive had my 02 sensor fall onto my turbo and practically melt the thing into macaroni what exactly did you do to solve the issue of the burnt up wire for the rack ? my steering is dead heavy almost nonexistent 

On 4/16/2021 at 12:02 AM, GTSBoy said:

The HICAS CU controls power steering. It might be unhappy with you disconnecting HICAS solenoids. If that's the case, it's not insurmountable. I have completely removed all HICAS hardware from my car except the CU. Many years prior to that, because of a steering sensor fault, I just disconnected the smaller of the two plugs on the CU. That prevented the steering sensor fault from putting the HICAS into lockout (which wasn't a good place to be, trust me!) and kept the light off the dash. The HICAS CU still appears to be happy with the situation many years since removing the rest of the hardware. So I suggest you try disconnecting that plug first.

But there are other ways that the power steering can die. I once had my oxygen sensor die with a short in the power wire that runs its heating element. That power wire runs in the same loom next to the wire running down to the steering rack, and that wire got damaged by the loom short and I lost assistance. Dead heavy. Real hard to find the problem, but an easy fix once found. I'm sure there are other secret squirrel ways it can die.

You would be advised to start at the assistance solenoid on the rack and see what voltage is present, work backwards from there.

 

bruv dealing with a similar issue at a drift event ive had my 02 sensor fall onto my turbo and practically melt the thing into macaroni what exactly did you do to solve the issue of the burnt up wire for the rack ? my steering is dead heavy almost nonexistent 

please forgive the double quote its my first time posting here any input is hugley appreciated

Copy-paste of reply to PM.

The loom that contains the power wire for the O2 sensor also carries the PS wiring and when the power wire melted and burnt, it took out a couple of other wires in that loom, including the PS wiring. So, I just repaired the broken wires. Had to split the loom open and do a bit of surgery on a few wires.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • See my post here If you put the Haltech in, you won't have to worry about any of that. And, in case you're worrying about my lack of credentials in doing your exact swap, I put a Neo in an R32. There has never been a stock boost solenoid near my car and the Neo's ECU has never cared. Nor should it, because it is electronically impossible for it to care.
    • That's 100% wrong. Did you wire in the boost sensor? If you did not, then that is 101% your answer. Neo ECUs do suck a bit.
    • Hello, I'm trying to make this thread basically the thread with all the answers to common questions regarding specifically the RB20 DE NEO + T engine, that comes in the R34. Answers will and only should be provided by those who have done this conversion or actually have some relevant real life experience please. Please feel free to ask questions in the comments if you have any so other members can answer. I feel like this thread is really needed, especially with more Americans buying (unknowingly going to regret it too) rb20 neo r34s. My first question being - What do you guys use for tuning? I have purchased a haltech elite 2500 Plug and play kit for the rb25det NEO because the ecu plug is the same, but I am unsure if any of the pins would need to be repined to match. Second question that I see asked very often - After this conversion, did you install the boost solenoid/ actuator? I see many people doing a + T setup on their rb20 NEOs while running stock RB25DET NEO ECUs with no tune. I am wondering how they are going about doing that and consistently abusing the car because many of these people have had these untuned setups running for a very long time. That was my original plan, but my engine cuts out at 5 psi of boost using the stock ecu with no tune and no boost solenoid/actuator.
×
×
  • Create New...