Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

6 hours ago, DTT_Eruc said:

What's the oem specs for clearances on the rod and main ?

These are for RB26, I doubt that RB25 will be different but I don't have a manual for that engine.

Crank is 0.028-0.046mm (0.0011-0018 inches)

Conrod is 0.020-0.039mm (0.0008-0016 inches)

It's actually a bit more complicated than that because main and conrod journals/tunnels/rods are graded at the factory and then bearing thicknesses are selected to get the correct clearance.      OTOH, with an aftermarket set of shells it's all one size, although there would be a very small variation due to manufacturing tolerances.   

In your case, if you're confident the journals are in good condition (short of actually measuring them with a mic....not vernier and most people don't have access to the specialist bore gauges required for main tunnels and rods) and you have the original bearing shells still in their original locations on the rods and block, you can measure the clearance with plastiguage, which will be a reasonable guide to the condition of the bearings/journals.     

 

  • Thanks 1

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Brumbys with good shells are bloody expensive, I've looked at 2 "cheaper" cars, and walked away from both,  plus after some research spare parts are fairly sparce I'm starting to think that I missed the boat on finding a clean one that is straight (ish) and without alot rust I'm starting to think about a old Hilux as panels and other parts are much more available as they sold tens of thousands of them I use to be indecisive but now I'm not sure
    • A Brumby would probably fit a big metal toolbox in the back... this is how it begins  
    • Picked up a new OEM boot seal for the MX5 today as the old one got ripped a bit by me being a idiot by seeing if I could fit a large metal tool box in it, it didn't fit, and ripped the seal with the corner of the tool box I am still waiting on time to get the cams and new balancer installed, as well as the repairs to the boot Time will not be an issue soon though
    • I was more thinking so it doesn't flop around as much rather than for rotating it. Once you have the balance right, it should rotate well enough, depending on how much resistance there is on the pivot. I think you said the pivot point was on a bearing though didn't you?
    • You can get them with the worm drive rotator but I was too tight to pay another $250-$300 so manual labour it is! I don't think it will be too hard to rotate though. 
×
×
  • Create New...