Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Yeah, I agree that if you're going to pull the crank to install a crank collar, you may as well go all the way and do a spline drive oil pump. I know that Nitto claims that it's a problem to run spline drive on RBs hence their "sine drive" gears but I've yet to hear about a failure that wasn't due to improper installation.

  • 1 year later...

Is this why the Tomei oil pumps can’t turn by hand from new? I’ve had numerous other brands and it seems so tight

On 21/4/2021 at 4:13 PM, BK said:

I've got a feeling they are discontinued, but any collar may or may not cause an issue. Read the thread again regarding collars not fitting with a Tomei pump and why they had problems. All of the issues of a collar fouling the Tomei pump is purely because of machining or installation error due to the very tight tolerances of the Tomei pump and drive collar - the standard pumps have a lot more room for error on the drive area. The collars were sitting up too high or they didn't return back to their original clearance once heated - all caused by preparation or installation error.

Any of the collars should fit any of the aftermarket pumps and if they don't you machine to suit. Remember you have to machine / grind to crank before fitting so any error here couldl make it foul.

 

  • 1 year later...
On 4/19/2024 at 4:51 PM, Butters said:

So what did you end up doing ?  and is it still alive today ?

 

 

Hey, thanks for asking. 

I ended up using the Nitto crank collar (flat, not spline) with a Nitto oil pump. (Herman from Platinum Racing Products confirmed the Nitto crank collar would work just fine with the Tomei pump, BTW)
Combined with oil restrictors in the head, a head drain (to sump), a PRP block brace (lowers the pan around 3/4in for more oil capacity), a baffled oil pan, and a Leask Spec oil sump extension. I get the high oil pressure that RBs like, it holds 9.5 quarts of oil, and I don't have any risk of oil starvation at the track.

Launch control works great, and I can hit redline without worries. 

Car runs great and it's a beast on the track.  

PXL_20220526_225122283 (2).jpg

PXL_20220523_024957033.jpg

PXL_20220523_024905551 (1).jpg

  • Like 4
On 25/04/2021 at 2:03 AM, groovezog said:

Chill, dude. You seem to make a lot of false assumptions about my build and have some idea that I'm only going to hold the engine at redline and hit anti-lag in a parking lot with the sole intention of shooting flames, while doing no maintenance to the car or something.

I've built this car ground-up, from a shell, for racing and it's held up incredibly well. I'd like to setup anti-lag

At least you use your car as intended, those who have posted have not seen a race track in over a decade and/or their cars are still on hoists or jack stands 🥲😅😁

16 hours ago, Dose Pipe Sutututu said:

At least you use your car as intended, those who have posted have not seen a race track in over a decade and/or their cars are still on hoists or jack stands 🥲😅😁

Hey, thanks dude. Freedom to do whatever one wants to with their own car and build, but personally I don't want anything that's too precious. If I can't beat on it when I feel inspired, what's the point of having a car like this? And if I break something, it's me who's going to be fixing it myself...

  • Like 3

Totally agree here @groovezog!

There's advice and there's advice, sometimes the latter doesn't take inconsideration use case, budget, time, effort etc.

If we all wanted the ultimate track car with a dry sump, big displacement, we would just go to the nearest Porsche dealer and buy a 911 GT3 RS (that's if they even let you these days lol).

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • So my R32 GTST has been sitting around at my old mum and dad's place for a few years now...and it's time to bring it home. Main issue I have is that she hasn't been started in about 5 years or so, so I'm not too keen on just kicking it over and hoping that RB20 reputation for being un-killlable extends to long periods of neglect. My plan is to get it running there so I can move it around,  then get it towed back to my place where I can start working on it properly. The old folks driveway is a bad place to start a project like that. I'm getting old too and also haven't stuffed around with cars since forever, so kinda learning this stuff again. So far I've siphoned out all the shitty old fuel and topped up the coolant (thought it was fully dry but took 2 litres to fill the radiator). Planning on hitting the rusty rotors with some brake cleaner in case the tow truck driver gets a bit gung ho loading it up. As far as oil, it's got plenty although it's now dark in colour and obviously needs a change sooner rather than later. Was doing some YouTube research and was planning to hand-crank the motor from the harmonic balancer with a 37mm socket and breaker bar, removing the spark plugs and spraying some "fogging oil" in the holes but there's not much room to get in there with the radiator fan right up against it. Jacking the car up takes too long and I can't leave it half done between visits. So now I'm was thinking of cranking a few times it using the starter (removing plugs and spraying oil first). Reckon there's any chance it will do more damage that way if something's stuck inside the motor? Should I really change all fluids completely before I go any further? Grateful for any other advice you guys have to get her going safely too.      
    • Well, that's just wierd. Amongst a string of seemingly benign introduction and request for help threads, we have this one with a link.... to another, unrelated thread inside this forum. Colour me suspicious.
    • Sorry to say, I think that is a pretty long shot on this forum.....
    • sorry, "info" from Lumley here: https://www.lsvcarinsurance.com.au/about-nrma-insurance
    • So it looks like Lumleys are closing other than in Victoria, with the kind offer that another brand from the evil IAG multi-glomerate (NRMA) might offer insurance under their price and conditions if they want to, as an alternative. Lunmleys was good for us because they covered JDM and USDM imports, had 2 car "stable" insurance (ie, insure many cars but max of 2 can be driven at once), covered mods, reasonable overall prices. So, with them gone, who else should I consider? Shannons is last on my list, we used to be insured with them until we found they were helpful at taking premiums but much less helpful at claim time.
×
×
  • Create New...