Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi Guys

I'm at the point of my build were I'm ready to get the exhaust done and wanting input on down pipe size.

Spec are as follows:

Rb25det series 1

1000cc injectors 

Custom T04 turbo

Front mount intercooler 

Front facing plenum 

Power goal is 400hp to 500hp 

The exhaust will be side exit as it's a r32 race car.

 

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/
Share on other sites

Sidepipes are difficult in large diameters because you lose ground clearance where you cross the chassis rails and sills. You may want to consider smaller twins rather than large single for side pipe. Or major surgery around chassis rails/sills to get the clearance.

Or....sad as it sounds, a rear exhaust is just way more practical...plenty of space and premade options if you want.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951671
Share on other sites

Right, well that makes it surprisingly hard because larger diameters have much more area/glow.  Say you want 3.5" flow (90mm) in twins, you need 2x 65mm. You do get 35mm more clearance that way but it's definitely not half.

Ride height and side pipes are a problem; you can't have the chassis rails 100mm off the ground and then lose 65 or even 90mm clearance below it; you end up having to run the chassis rails 190mm off the ground (single) or 165mm (twin)....

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951676
Share on other sites

If I wanted to pass a 4" exhaust pipe under the chassis rails, I'd just make a flat oval section up, no more than 50mm high, but as wide as it needs to be to add up to more than the equivalent cross sectional area of a 4" pipe. That looks like a 2" pipe split down the centre, with a 5" wide flat spliced in top and bottom, or a ~6"x2" rectangle. Add offset transitions at both ends to 4" pipe, or just at one end and take the rectangular outlet all the way out under the sill.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951679
Share on other sites

9 hours ago, couchboy said:

Bcozican- so you have a 3 inch down pipe?

yeah straight through 3" all the way through

when I first built the car I built it all for response at your desired power level 

i got the smallest PWR flipped for shorter piping intercooler 2.5" inlet outlet they said would take up to 600hp and up till now 2.5" cooler piping as well

still got me 650hps  

but obv could be better flow and now would go a bit bigger etc

 

alot more people know way more than me as above. maybe im not the best tech example, that seems to happen with me, but it somehow just works and still gets there. @Unzipped Compositescan vouch for that ha

Edited by bcozican
Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482399-down-pipe-size/#findComment-7951708
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I’d love to find some where that can recover the dashes to look brand new and original. Mine has a very slight bubble, nothing compared to some I’ve seen though 
    • $170K. I asked one of the guys there as a joke if that price was just for the passenger seat as it was where the price sheet was... he tried really hard to crack a smile 😄 He also mentioned that every single part of the car was inspected and either restored or replaced with a new or as new part, or made from scratch. The interior was incredible, every inch like a new car.
    • Time for a modernisation, throw out the AFM, stock O2s, ECU into the e-waste bin. Rip out the cable throttle, IACV, pedal, etc. into the scrap metal bin. DBW, e-throttle, modern ECU, CANbus wideband, and the thing will drive better than when it left the factory.
    • I agree, don't go trusting those trims. As I said, first step is to put the logger away, and do the basics in diagnosis.   I spend plenty of time with data loggers. I also spend plenty of time teaching "technicians" why they need to stop using their data loggers, and learn real diagnostics.   The amount of data logs I play with would probably blow most people away. I don't just use it to diagnose. I log raw CAN data too, as a nice chunk of my job is reverse engineering what automotive manufacturers are doing.
    • I'm aware, but unless you're actually seeing the voltage the ECU is seeing and you're able to verify the sensors are actually working I find it hard to just trust STFT/LTFT. I will say, logging the ECU comes naturally to me because it's one of the lowest effort methods of diagnosis and I do similar things in my day job all the time. Staring at 20+ charts looking for something that isn't quite right isn't for everyone. NDS1 allows you to log almost everything so that's normally what I do and then sort out the data later. 
×
×
  • Create New...