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Hi all, I was wondering if you could give some advice.

Ok here’s the story. Sorry for long read. I have a HX32 for an rb25, I had an an10 drain. Discovered it was too small for the holset.

Oil didn’t drain quick enough, and leaked out core. I made up a 20mm ID steel drain for the turbo. I decided to take the turbo apart to clean it as I feared it was contaminated from being in the shed (it was) so i rebuilt it with China kit. After a few mins idling, It leaked oil out compressor side. I later found out the part numbers weren’t compatible (although the parts looked identical ?) I thought ok I will source a quality kit(Mellet) specifically for the Hx32w. But sadly it’s leaking again from the compressor side. You can see the oil coming out the compressor wheel.

I read on mellet they can leak at idle ? but will get not leak if upto engine speeds. I cannot get upto engine speeds as it’s a project and needs mapped etc and bits and bobs. But it didn’t leak oil before I rebuilt it and again it only idled. 

I have double checked all the usuals. My Drain isn’t blocked. the drain is basically bang on vertical. I have disconnected the oil breather lines. 

It’s an An4 feed. Do you think I should try a restrictor? I know a restrictor should not be necessary though... I’m fed up and on the verge of just buying another turbo but I’d rather not as I’m sure you know a genuine holset HX32 is hard to come by. Thinking of buying hx35 chra and putting my 32 stuff on it. 

The current oil level is a little on the low side, however still between min and max. Maybe it needs more oil to build pressure perhaps ? 


Thanks.

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I also found these which would suggest it is drain related ?






The guy doesn’t even use the “oil seal” in the 2nd video. And still doesn’t leak oil.

Although I checked the drain tube and is clear. I will now check the fitting into the block as that could be blocked. Or one or both oil cavities to the bearings could have a tiny bit of Debris blocking them.

I also found turbo lab of America suggested minimum thickness of 10w-30 with journals as *sometimes* oil can get out if the oil isn’t thick enough. Interestingly I changed to 5w50 (although recommend for rb25s) around the time I changed the turbo to the holset.

My next steps are inspect drain fitting and give a good clean to both journal feed cavities. If no success I will change oil to some sort of 10w.

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Also had the compressor housing off and started it up and pretty much leaked within 5 seconds of turning the key? surely if it was drain related it would take longer to build up the oil to leak ?

took the turbo off and cleaned the chra again and quite a fair amount of metal dust came out. Maybe the oil cavities were blocked with all this shit and just poured out the seals ? 

I’m going to modify my oil fitting into the block today. it’s parallel with the floor so i might weld a small bend on it so my oil drain hose fits into it more naturally.

haven’t tried it back up yet.

If still doesn’t work I think it can only be:
•inadequate piston rings/gap?
•excessive crank case blow by
•restrictor needed? Although JBs don’t need one 


Any help greatly appreciated
 
 


ok update I tried today, I took the fitting off the block and there was no blockages. I also changed oil and filter to 10w 40.

I haven’t tested for excessive blow by but I did have the breathers off and the dip stick never blows out? it is safe to rule out blow by? 
 

im thinking of going down to an3 feed. I don’t want to be that guy that tries to solve oiling issues by restricting but I’m desperate lol. 

Or should I send it away to get professionally rebuilt? 

I would of bought a replacement a while ago but I cannot find a hx32 anywhere online. 

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Straight from the holset hx repair manual .pdf:
 

8. Normal oil temperature is 95+/-5°C (203+/-9° F). It should not exceed 120°C (248°F) under any operating condition.
9. Any pre-lube oil must be clean and meet the minimum CD classification.
10. The orientation of turbine housing, bearing housing and compressor cover is fixed according to application. During installation, do not attempt to rotate these components. Inclined turbocharger installation is not recommended. If an installed angle is necessary, oil inlet centreline must be +/- 10 degrees from vertical and rotor centreline +/- 5 degrees from horizontal.
11. Holset permits oil return pipes to decline at an overall angle of not less than 30 degrees below horizontal.All turbocharger applications require a pipe of internal diameter greater than 19 mm which has integrated connectors. To ensure oil returns into the engine under all operating conditions, the return connection into the engine sump must not be submerged and the outlet flange of the turbocharger must be 50 mm above the maximum oil level of the engine sump pan. Crankcase pressure should be limited ideally to 0.8 kPa (0.12 lbf/in2) but 1.4 kPa (0.20 lbf/in2) can be accepted by reference to Holset.
12. Oil pressure of 150 kPa (20 lbf/in2) must show at the oil inlet within 3 - 4 seconds of engine firing to prevent damage to turbocharger bearing system. A flexible supply pipe is recommended.
13. The minimum oil pressure when the engine is on load must be 210 kPa (30 lbf/in2). Maximum permissible operating pressure is 500 kPa (72 lbf/in2) although 600 kPa (88 lbf/in2) is permitted during cold start up. Under idling conditions pressure should not fall below 70 kPa (10 lbf/in2).
14. Recommended oil flows for the turbochargers are 2 litre/min at idle and 3 litre/min above maximum torque speed.
 
Those are the oiling requirements for Holset HX30-32-35-40 turbos, if you can meet those and you use quality oil with reasonable oil change frequency, your HX32 should last years even at 2+ bar boost where they often operate in original diesel applications, assuming its not already damaged. Turbosmart Oil Pressure Regulator on the oil feed is a great way to control oil feed as requirement above. Minimum 19 mm inside diameter of oil drain hose. 
 
I have read that for Holsets on Mitsubishi 4G63, when oil pressure/volume is too high they do fit restrictors on the oil feed, although can't remember what size they used. 
 
I have used HX32, HX35, and HX40 on both RB20 and 2JZ, only once had turbo oiling problem. First time was I try HX35 on the 2JZ. I use same oil feed set up that was used for Garrett T04R journal bearing turbo that was on it previously, just put bigger 19-20 mm oil drain hose. No issue, has great spool/response.
 
After a while I had the HX35 leaking oil from compressor, found the engine (stock 2JZ from junkyard) has broken ring land thus high crank case pressure preventing oil to drain from the turbo. Rebuilt the 2jz and upgrade HX35 to HX40, its been healthy since, and made more power but more lag as expected vs HX35. So do check your engine health.
 
I used T3 twin scroll HX32 on RB20, it has 54 mm compressor inducer as HX35 ( but compressor housing was smaller than regular HX35 compressor housing) and 52 mm turbine exducer + turbine housing of HX30, made good power with good spool/response, though IMO the turbine side will choke before the compressor if maxed out. If your HX32 is actually broken you can buy HX30 CHRA and fit it to your HX32 housing, move the HX32 compressor + housing to HX30 CHRA, effectively making a HX32. HX35 CHRA don't use v-band clamp to joint CHRA to turbine housing like HX30-HX32 use, so HX35 CHRA won't fit HX30-HX32 turbine housing and HX35 use larger turbine with 60 mm turbine exducer, so will be laggier but support bigger hp due to lower back pressure and able to max HX35 compressor which can flow around 57-58 lb/min.
 
HX32 on RB25DET Neo will be a responsive 400-450 whp turbo, due to smaller turbine not able to max the compressor.
 
 
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