Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

8 minutes ago, Duncan said:

They are syncroniser clips, and would more commonly be found holding your syncro hubs together.

Did you change your oil for a reason?

Thanks duncan, Is it common for these syncroniser clips to fall out? How long do gearbox's last with them missing?

I had the gearbox rebuilt 2-3 yrs ago but it always felt a little sloppy, still works fine just a little notchy. Thought I'd change the oil...

 

 

 

yeah sorry I'm no gearbox expert. I guess it needs to come apart and may as well be checked/rebuilt while out.  The clips/keys hold the synchro hub assembly together and I think there are 3 per hub so perhaps the other one is holding in there for now, I was wondering if it was crunch shifting between a particular pair of gears.

  • Like 1

Those particular shifting inserts are from the 1st / 2nd gear selector coupling from your main shaft assembly, and as Duncan mentioned there is 3 if them.

image.thumb.png.6b6f127804fcbdb7b37e83a4e18f15a7.png

Only a matter of time before your box will not select 1st or 2nd properly and is totally possible to lock the selector up completely. 

Pull box and get it fixed, or you'll definitely do more serious damage to main shaft gears, synchros or coupling components.

This is absolutely not a "see how it goes" problem - you will kill your box if you don't address this now.

  • Like 4
10 hours ago, BK said:

Those particular shifting inserts are from the 1st / 2nd gear selector coupling from your main shaft assembly, and as Duncan mentioned there is 3 if them.

image.thumb.png.6b6f127804fcbdb7b37e83a4e18f15a7.png

Only a matter of time before your box will not select 1st or 2nd properly and is totally possible to lock the selector up completely. 

Pull box and get it fixed, or you'll definitely do more serious damage to main shaft gears, synchros or coupling components.

This is absolutely not a "see how it goes" problem - you will kill your box if you don't address this now.

Thanks BK, I'll get some quotes for a rebuild vs. a new box.

well, your profile nor post says which car / box, but potentially much cheaper to pull and rebuild. some of the Rb boxes are getting very expensive these days.

Few hours labour for box in and out if you can't do it. 

depending on whether the bearings and synchros are still good to reuse it may just be a few hours to refit the keys.

  • Like 1
On 07/06/2021 at 9:56 AM, dyl33 said:

Yeah I'm a little annoyed, I knew somthing wasn't 100% right when i picked it up.

It was rebuilt by Gavin Wood Autotech on the Gold Coast, but he has since gone out of business. 

Those solid inserts hold the 2 large circular springs on either side of the 1st / 2nd selector hub for the synchro baulk ring and is the same across all RB 5 speeds.

The 3rd / 4th inserts are a spring type clip and look like this when broken:

image.png.ef1af3390133e5e121cf10cfa8c2f2fb.png

Should look like this:

image.thumb.png.0cf4ec0923cd611d1a04e30656e03aab.png

Its way more common to pop the 3rd / 4th clips. The 3 ways these inserts come out on all gears is from:

1. Incorrect installation as they are pretty fragile.

2. Shifting like a Muppet, banging the gears through and forcing the shift.

3. Using a gearbox oil that is way too thick for the synchro to operate correctly like a diff oil or Shockproof. The thick viscosity actually will have a negative effect on the synchros to do their job and unnaturally load other components like shifting inserts, springs and sliding hubs.

  • Like 1
On 07/06/2021 at 11:53 AM, Duncan said:

A little off track, but I understand those clips you've shown are series1-2 R33. Apparently s3 R33 had a better designed clip installed and retrofit is possible.

Yes correct, that 3rd / 4th insert is a pre 97 clip. The solid insert on 1st / 2nd never changed but your correct, the 3rd / 4th spring type insert changed on the post 97 boxes to a solid two spring type design.

To retrofit to the later clip on 3rd and 4th requires everything to do with the main shaft 3rd and 4th to be changed including main shaft 3rd / 4th gear, synchro baulk rings, sliding selector collar - everything. Even the 3rd / 4th selector fork needs to be changed as it won't locate into the old selector collar. Its about $800 - $1000 worth of just parts to convert.

All of these parts required for the conversion is also what you need to do to go to a ungraded synchro gearset like a PPG, PAR or OS giken on an old box as they are all designed around the post 97 synchro update on 3rd / 4th - a cost not usually factored in when upgrading a synchro gearset.

  • Like 2
  • 2 weeks later...
On 20/06/2021 at 10:28 PM, AleksandarR33 said:

They are shift inserts for 3rd & 4th gear, from month/year 06/97 onwards.

No, as mentioned in the original picture they are the 1st / 2nd gear ones.

Why do people with no idea what the hell they're talking about try and chime in on something as fact ?

It is the 1st / 2nd solid insert from the pics.

You have never built a box then have you.

I have - lots.

The solid ones are for 1st / 2nd, as they have a circular spring either side of them to provide the spring tension. The spring type looking ones are for 3rd / 4th as they are the spring.

Posts like this really shit me as it just contributes to misinformation from internet mechanics. If you don't know what you're on about - don't comment.

See below, same part for multiple Nissan boxes:

Screenshot_20210621-184657.thumb.png.e218a398c7d099edc61a600536fbea6b.png

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • FWIW a lot of the local owners that do a big build tend to have cars that are perpetually broken. 
    • I just got this system but haven’t installed yet I got a Moroso sealed box (defect reasons) which will be set up same as their pic The quality is high grade, the correspondence I had with the owner (former head designer for Rockford Fosgate) was unbelievable, guiding me with what I needed. Even told me not to buy some things as it could be sorted in a different way at his loss. Just a bit of a bite with the exchange rate and don’t purchase gear in 1 hit that goes over $1,000 au, lol I forgot!  
    • Thanks mate for that reply. Very helpful.    it’s a 2022 400R so would most likely lose those features as you say.     I did a quick compare of a rv37 nav and heading for sale in Japan to q50 model. I’ll pop pics below. Seems  Japan spec head into top, nav unit second below it   below pic Q50 aud delivered     differences seem to be Aus delivered has a different plug top left hand side of head unit- not sure what and where it goes.   and nav unit Japanese tv37 had an extra plug put    Again I’m really not sure what each of these differences mean!       the actual plugs on a v37 and q50 screens look identical on both screens… pics below for comparing. (One screen was is a us delivered one) but should be same gps signals etc as Australia.    If it were as simple as swapping a nav unit from q50 aud delivered im interested -just want to figure out what the missing plug is for before spending big $ on a second hand part for it to not work, and I guess with the head unit, if the band expander does the job (I got a 20mHz so should get the range I’m after) so should narrow my issue down to nav unit only.  I’d love to know what the extra cable on rv37 does and if I eliminate that part what it’ll do to the setup,    and also, if I can figure out what that head unit plug difference is, what does that cable do and where does it got can it be altered or re-plugged?! Excuse my ignorance what is ACP/AA, what does that stand for? (Apple car play? Android air play)? so If I swapped head units to save using a band expander, I’d likely lose those better features to have an oem Unit operational. Better to use a band expander and retain AirPlay options and newer version of head unit     provably best to band expand it, and focus on the nav unit. th isn’t  a big deal/ would be cool to have it working  from what I can tel we use a PAL Signal and Japan uses a NTSC signal  I don’t know if there’s a co better or if the screen only reads NTSC, or if it’s the tv module that needs replacing… no big deal don’t need it but more of a curiosity thing on that!   Thanks for the info re tyre sensors, helpful and great to know.  I was reading the online manual off Japan website and it seemed to make it sound more confusing than it is  I guess a rim replacement would require the sensors to be moved to a new rim to carry that option over?!     Thanks for the info regarding diagnostic mode. I appreciate your help mate. Trying to brainstorm here to find a solution to get as much gadgets as I can working! I plan to get my local Nissan tech to have a look too who used to be at an Infiniti dealer back in the day to see if any thing they have or idea can find a soliton. But hoping anyone here has gone down the same route to make life easier!!   i guess identifying the cable/plug differences and what they do would be a great way of finding out if the units are transferable    thanks again 
    • No idea about the remote start part. If the V37 nav is anything like other Nissan JDM vehicles, you can't get the factory Japanese nav working in australia, a card from a different car almost certainly won't work, those cards are usually matched to the serial number of the DCU.  You could be possibly swap out the components from a AuDM Q50 to get it working, but if this is a new model (2021+) 400R, then you will lose the newer features like ACP/AA.  That said, if you have ACP/AA, just use google maps.. I assume a band expander would be required to get the local radio stations, but don't forget the Japanese FM band is narrower than ours, so you still might not be able to receive all Australian stations. I can't see any reason the tyre pressure sensors won't work here, there is the sensor unit inside the rim and the receiver nearby in the wheel well.  I have never had to change the batteries on my 2015 Q50, so I assume they last quite a while.  A straight battery change shouldn't need them to be re-registered as they are the same unit, that should only be required if you replace a sensor with a new one.   Word of warning, if you ever go into the 'secret' diagnostics mode on the main screen, DO NOT EVER do a 'reset' in this menu, it will erase all of your model specific data in the DCU and you will need a trip to a dealer to re-program it all, which would be particularly painful being an import.  This applies to the AuDM Q50 too.
    • There is a known issue with the mix door motor on the Q50 which causes these symptoms, not sure if it is common on the Y51 though.
×
×
  • Create New...