Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

HI All
Im trying to source the male end connector of the factory fuel pump control module .. iv look on ali express and ebay but its a bit hard not know the exact manufacture part number
has anyone ever found or know the part number just for the connector

connector.thumb.PNG.1540c820f8739c43e5e57292ee3359ed.PNG

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482527-r32-r33-gtr-fuel-module-connection/
Share on other sites

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be

Where are you (location on profile would help)?

If it were me, I'd just replace the socket on the module with one sourced to match a new loom plug from something else. Deustch, etc. The module's socket could be on a short flylead coming out through another hole in the case.

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

Assuming you don't need the loom as well, I probably have a couple of them available as I don't use them on the race car, however, I don't know which unused plug it would be

Where are you (location on profile would help)?

True.. Sorry about that 😆

NAh dont  need the loom just the white male connector in the picture it is soldered inside to the main board just need the whole plug with the legs as one piece desoldered from the pcb

1 minute ago, GTSBoy said:

If it were me, I'd just replace the socket on the module with one sourced to match a new loom plug from something else. Deustch, etc. The module's socket could be on a short flylead coming out through another hole in the case.

nah it has legs directly part of the male prongs ,which are then soldered to the pcb

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug.

Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

3 minutes ago, Duncan said:

well I guess that makes dropping by the try some plugs difficult and postage may make the whole idea unfeasible. But if you want to see, just measure inner the physical dimensions of the socket and I'll see if I can find the plug.

Unsoldering the socket from the PCB and replacing with a flying lea may still be easier and cheaper, if you aren't confident an electronics tech could surely do it. That is how the TV input on my cima was done because I didn't have the plug

im actually wanting to use the socket in the unit to make another harness so i dont have to cut up my original one..If that makes sence

The original body loom ends in a plug with female electrical connectors in it, yes? Then just make your loom extension with separate male pins that you can plug directly into each female recepticle on the existing body plug and throw some heatshrink around it to hold it all together. maybe a spot of hotmelt glue between the wires underneath the heatshrink to provide some mechanical strength. This would all be reversible without leaving any sign that it was there.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • That's a good point. The rears of the covers themselves have no baffling at all though. Higher up more chance of air for venting the crank case. Lower on the side more likely to be submerged. I might be able to fit them on the sides but with both the sump drain fittings being on the drivers side the passenger one will need to make a U Turn and be nearer the turbo. But it will look neat being not up on top.
    • It won't likely matter where along the cam covers you put the big fittings. I would suggest putting them on the sides if you can, simply because it will reduce the flow up through the baffles and thus reduce the amount of oil that gets put into the foam. It might not matter, but it seems like something to consider as a worthwhile thing to avoid.
    • Well, I have my IM240 results with a cammed LS1... My Nox was 0.11 and my CO g/km was 0.2. Euro4 is 0.08 and 0.1 respectively. I'm gonna say for a stock RB this is actually plausible, BUT in Australia they were complied pre-Euro2, so the limits were: Which as you can see, is way higher. I'd say a stock RB with a new OEM Cat could? actually pass Euro4 for NOX but you'd probably have to do a hell of a lot of testing to prove it, and getting a car emissions tested and carrying a certificate of emissions when/if you get pulled over may be cost prohibitive if it's even allowable to get your car tested and re-classified. You'd have to find out what the UK Govt is using as reference material. It may be non-negotiable.
    • I made a little more progress last night and added some E85 safe fuel tank baffle foam in behind the stock cam cover baffle plate.  It still feels really wrong shoving foam inside the engine but apparently its fine based on it pretty much being the MINES/Hi-Octane RB26 cam baffle kit and the few posts here I have found of people doing it and the lack of posts saying the foam broke down and ruined the motor... Still plan to check it frequently though lol The last step for this round of oil control modifications I plan to make is to add some -12AN fittings to the cam covers and connect them to some (already existing luckily) -12AN fittings on the sump. Basically a sudo head drain/sump breather/pressure equaliser without having to remove the motor and do the one on the rear of the head. My plan is to add them to either the tops or the sides of the cam covers at the back. unless there is a compelling reason to have them at the front on the sides which i have seen a few times though they were all on RB26 cam covers from memory so that may be due to the stock breathers being on the back and the integral baffle being different ?    
×
×
  • Create New...