Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi all, was just wondering if this was this was normal or not.  I have a freshly imported M35 Stagea with the VQ25DET.  Whenever I switch from Drive to manual mode on the gear box it says i'm in 4th gear, this can be from first start, just waiting at the lights and pushing the gear across or driving at any speed and pushing it to manual.  I have to manually shift it down to get into 1st when also coming to a stop in manual mode which is different to any tip tronic car I have owned.  When I manually shift it does seem to change the gears down and the car seems to be driving smoothly when just in Drive.

It also seems to rev higher than i'm expecting at 60 km/h, it sits at around 1500 rpm at 60 when i would have thought it would be closer to 1000 rpm.

I believe the car is stock as a rock apart from an exhaust.

Just wanted to get some experience from other owners before I go and get it checked out.  Appreciate any advice.

Thanks

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482580-strange-m35-auto-gearbox-experience/
Share on other sites

Yes, that's normal. The gearbox is auto down but not auto up in manual mode. I find it works well on the highway as I'll usually be cruising in 5th when in D but it'll drop down to 4th if I flick it over to manual mode. I can then drop it down again to 3rd if I feel like getting creative.

Thanks mate, mine doesn’t seem to go auto down either, ie if im in tiptronic mode and coming up to the lights it will stay in whatever gear I leave it in, which is different to any other tiptronic car I’ve had.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Well, hydraulic lifters will get noisy if they are dirty/fouled in some way, and exactly how that manifests will depend on exactly what schmutz is where. There is a procedure on here somewhere for dismantling and soaking/cleaning them. Replacing them with new is about 50% of the work and about 5% of the money!
    • Thanks for the reply @GTSBoy this is is a hydraulic lifter engine. Yea right i did not realise the lifters were supposed to be compressible while installed. I could push them down but i had to lean almost my while body weight on them.  I have never heard of a lifter/ lifters ticking only at hot idle and getting worse the hotter it gets. I have owned a few jdm cars with noisy lifters. This noise is slightly more subtle, it is more of a sharp gentle metalic tic than the solid and more loud tapping I've heard on lifters. I have used a metal rod, alloy tube, hose and stethoscope and could not find the source of the tick. But it appears to be loudest on the actual engine block behind the exhaust cam gear and next to the oil filter. I had mate (40 year old mechanic) go over it with me and he couldn't find it either..  Could it be a cam seal issue of some sort?  Cheers  
    • This seems problematic and unlikely at the same time. Vanilla RB2Xs have hydraulic lifters. They do have "zero" clearance, but only when running with oil pressure inside them. When not running, you should be able to compress them and obtain heaps of clearance. RB26s and Neos have solid lifters. They should have ~0.3mm and ~0.5mm on the inlet and exhaust respectively. If they have zero clearance then bad things are happening. With nothing else being wrong, it would mean that the valves would be held slightly (ever so slightly) open when they are supposed to be closed and it should have all sorts of problems when running, caused by leakage in/out through the valves. Or, zero clearance can indicate severe valve seat recession. None of it is good. Have you used a piece of hose as a stethoscope to try to localise the noise?  
    • Sorry for reviving an old post, but I'm having the same hot idle tick issue. Did anyone ever find out what it was?  I have checked/ replaced Injectors Coils checked Lifter clerance (is at zero) Checked Cam lobes Replaced exhaust gasket and studs Would appreciate any advice this is driving me nuts  
    • There's a huge reason manufacturers are tuning in dead flat torque curves... Make them reliable (and more drive able)
×
×
  • Create New...