R33 complete fuel system upgrade

[Blakeo]

Hi guys, I am planning on upgrading the fuel system on my R33 skyline. Ideally I need enough fuel to handle 600rwhp on E85, but want to build it to handle at least 700hp for a bit of a safety margin. 

I am planning on pulling the fuel tank out since the sock fell in the tank upon removing the fuel pump. 

Is there any modifications I should do to the tank whilst it is out of the car, I'm already planning on putting on all new hoses (also what grade hose is best, will need to support e85). 

For the tank, I am planning on buying a FPG fuel hat. Then go 200 series fuel hose to the front of the car. Is it best to run the fuel hose all the way up, or run bigger fuel lines like how the factory has the setup? 

Any recommendations from others who have upgraded their fuel system, like the cleanest way to setup the fuel relay, how to route the hoses, what to hold the hoses underneath the car (thinking of using Chriso's billet fuel line holders). 

Also, last thing does anyone know where to buy the "baffle" bit which goes where you fill the tank up and its function is to stop you putting diesel in the car (prevents the wider fuel nooze going into the filler) since at some point in my cars life its been removed. 

Thank you

[Adam91]

Just did all this on my r32 gtr. I washed the tank out with 98 and water and dried it out completely before starting but went for frenchys -8 baffled twin pump setup, twin walbro 525s (one on main power trigger and the other on a staged trigger from the ecu), Teflon lined -8 braided hose (I think it was 200 series), chrisos billet line holders, a speedflow long series -8 fuel filter with the red filter element (I think is 200 micron), used a y piece connector near the steering rack to go from single -8 to a twin -6 feed straight to the rail, a -6 return from rail to a turbo smart 1200 reg. From the reg I went -8 to another pair of y piece connectors to fit a flex sensor and a custom bracket which bolts in nicely were the hicas solenoid used to be in the engine bay and -8 return back to the tank. And used Bosch 1650 stainless injectors with half sized adaptors to suit. Should support close to 1000 engine hp 

[Ben C34]

98 and water is an odd combo. I would rinse with e85 if concerned.

E 85 dissolves deposits stuck in the tank petrol doesn't

[Adam91]

On 02/07/2021 at 6:49 PM, Ben C34 said:

98 and water is an odd combo. I would rinse with e85 if concerned.

E 85 dissolves deposits stuck in the tank petrol doesn't

Was originally on straight e85 and had to switch back to 98 for the base map, I did over 10k of upgrades including ecu when I did the fuel system. Being a plastic tank in the gtrs it was a lot easier to clean and mop up the water than a steel tank. Probably wouldn’t recommend it with a steel tank but was fine. Being on e85 for so long it had just started to rust the old pump hanger and had a slimey residue on the walls of the tank. I did rinse it with 98 afterwards before going back together but the water was purely to get rid of the e85 residue and gunk

Edited July 2, 2021 by Adam91
Wasn’t finished writing

[Blakeo]

On 7/2/2021 at 4:18 PM, Adam91 said:

Just did all this on my r32 gtr. I washed the tank out with 98 and water and dried it out completely before starting but went for frenchys -8 baffled twin pump setup, twin walbro 525s (one on main power trigger and the other on a staged trigger from the ecu), Teflon lined -8 braided hose (I think it was 200 series), chrisos billet line holders, a speedflow long series -8 fuel filter with the red filter element (I think is 200 micron), used a y piece connector near the steering rack to go from single -8 to a twin -6 feed straight to the rail, a -6 return from rail to a turbo smart 1200 reg. From the reg I went -8 to another pair of y piece connectors to fit a flex sensor and a custom bracket which bolts in nicely were the hicas solenoid used to be in the engine bay and -8 return back to the tank. And used Bosch 1650 stainless injectors with half sized adaptors to suit. Should support close to 1000 engine hp 

Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail?

Thank you for going into detail with the pics and all.

[BK]

On 03/07/2021 at 1:54 PM, Blakeo said:

Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail?

Twin entry rail with dual supply -6 would be the reason.

Nothing wrong with doing it all in 200 series PTFE, which is the way most people do it.

Also Speedflow red filter is 40 micron.

[Adam91]

On 03/07/2021 at 2:24 PM, Blakeo said:

Very nice, is going soft hose all the way to the rail advisable though? How come you went twin 6an near the rail?

Thank you for going into detail with the pics and all.

Honestly just do it all Teflon hose the first time. If you plan on using e85 it will deteriorate the rubber hoses and you’ll forever be changing them. Unless they are e85 rated hose, you will have problems. Plus braid is much neater.

reason for twin feed rail is the rail and reg I bought came with -6 fittings and I didn’t want to stuff around with adaptors trying to make everything -8. No real gain if single -8 entry, twin -6, etc. Just looks tidy

 

[Adam91]

On 03/07/2021 at 6:45 PM, BK said:

Twin entry rail with dual supply -6 would be the reason.

Nothing wrong with doing it all in 200 series PTFE, which is the way most people do it.

Also Speedflow red filter is 40 micron.

Thanks man, yea it is a 40 micron speedflow filter 

[Hpjunky]

I just finished a fuel system on a weekend track car. Has 60ltr fuel cell and cut the top out baffled the cell properly not foam and welded in a 2.5ltr surge tank to the bottom with internal 044 pump. -8an from tank pump to 3ltr surge tank twin 044 "Y" into -10an to a filter then to a Year that goes to twin -8an hoses to twin -8 entry top feed injector rail -8 return to reg then -8 return to surge and then twin -10 lines back to tank. Bit overkill but the fuel system will cope with what ever power he wants to make. It's a r33 gtst not really a street car but has rego plates full cage gutted in cab.

[33GTRV]

All these replies are good advice, but if you want to do it the easy way, use the feed and return lines as feeds, run a new return and you are done. The return is often overlooked and can be too small. There is enough flow with the existing feed and return lines to support 800whp on corn juice. I know, I do it. And a positive in it all is that they are factory steel tube, tucked away nice and high and are well protected. 

[dyl33]

On 27/08/2021 at 7:56 AM, 33GTRV said:

All these replies are good advice, but if you want to do it the easy way, use the feed and return lines as feeds, run a new return and you are done. The return is often overlooked and can be too small. There is enough flow with the existing feed and return lines to support 800whp on corn juice. I know, I do it. And a positive in it all is that they are factory steel tube, tucked away nice and high and are well protected. 

Do you still use the factory fuel hat? And do you need to drop the tank too run the new return line?

[33GTRV]

I use the factory hat. I just used a bulkhead connector through it for the return

[Butters]

I;m guessing you are not staging the pumps then ? or have you added some wiring mods to the factory hat also ?

[33GTRV]

no mate, not staging pumps. i have an under car surge tank and 2 044's fed by the in tank 460 walbro. Wiring is the usual direct feed independent relay rewire mod thats been done for donkeys years on the skyline. at 13.6v the walbro will outflow the 044s as it is unloaded(not under pressure) Its probably one of the easiest fuel systems ive ever done and up there with a fairly cheap one too.  It will be getting changed soon as i will be going to a mechanical pump setup next year in the car. Either that or i blow a heap of money on a DC car as im getting the itch for speed again, bad.

[RODDO33]

On 7/2/2021 at 3:18 AM, Adam91 said:

Just did all this on my r32 gtr. I washed the tank out with 98 and water and dried it out completely before starting but went for frenchys -8 baffled twin pump setup, twin walbro 525s (one on main power trigger and the other on a staged trigger from the ecu), Teflon lined -8 braided hose (I think it was 200 series), chrisos billet line holders, a speedflow long series -8 fuel filter with the red filter element (I think is 200 micron), used a y piece connector near the steering rack to go from single -8 to a twin -6 feed straight to the rail, a -6 return from rail to a turbo smart 1200 reg. From the reg I went -8 to another pair of y piece connectors to fit a flex sensor and a custom bracket which bolts in nicely were the hicas solenoid used to be in the engine bay and -8 return back to the tank. And used Bosch 1650 stainless injectors with half sized adaptors to suit. Should support close to 1000 engine hp 

Adam do you have instagram or could you pm me? I have couple questions regarding your setup