Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Hi, I have a problem with my 91 R32 GTR. I usually am able to find answers through old post but I can not find one like this. Car is running an Apexi ECU. When the car is warm about 5-10 minutes of driving it will start not reving and pulling to redline. It is like a rev limiter at like 5500rpm or sometimes 4500rpm. The longer I drive the lower the limit goes under load. If I stop and shut the car off for a few minutes. When I start it back up it will pull to redline like normal. Then few minutes later back to limp mode or something. I have already cleaned and soldered the MAFs. Just cleaned the coils packs and dielectric greased them. I was wondering if anyone else knows where I might look for my issue. When it starts cutting out it does not backfire or cause the car to buck much at all. It is like the car just shuts off. Going to replace the fuel pump soon. After that I am not sure if I should be chasing a bad ground down or what.

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482679-r32-gtr-loss-of-power-when-warm/
Share on other sites

Nothing out of the ordinary. Well with what I can see on the hand controller. No weird high knock or voltage drops. It will still boost normal but then it does what it has been doing. I will have a new pump in it in a few days. If that doesn't help I think I will look at the connections on the ecu and wires. I will probably check for boost leaks which I don't think I have. Seems like something that resets after the key is turned off and back on. Car has new plugs and injectors. It ran fine for a while then I let it sit in storage for a while and been chasing random little issues. 

The igniter modules have a habit of misbehaving when they get old and hot. Can  you borrow a known good igniter from someone. (if you are in Melb west subs, I have one you could borrow)

I finally figured it out. Well one of the few things I did fixed it. Went for a 30 minute drive and never messed up. I believe it was the fuel pump. I ordered a new one before I took my old one off. The old one was really rusty, and the sock was very dirty. So I cleaned it all up and cleaned the connections on the pump. Decided to throw it back in while I waited for the new one and drove great. I also replaced a fuse in my viper security system that was blown and then I cleaned up the battery terminal. I was just grasping for straws but think it was the fuel pump not getting enough fuel. Thanks for the help.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • I had never actually looked into it, but aren't onboard compressors a thing in trucks?
    • Read the ECU for fault codes or have someone else do it. A faulty coolant temperature sender is usually listed in ECUs. If the sensor itself is not busted it can also be a bad ground connection. Or in a really unlucky case, damaged wiring.
    • Can't be a Futjitsubo as those are made with a flex piece and Reimax is smaller in pipe diameter. If anything it is closest to a Mines pipe, but evidently it is not an actual Mines pipe.   Classic word humor
    • Alright I will try to not forget.   As GTSboy replied to you already, problem is mainly the mismatch between the actual exhaust part and the denomination in the papers. That basically just looks like tampering to a cop, if they were to check your car and notice. If it had been done right they would have clarified it to be a custom pipe and just given it a certain part number that you have to engrave or weld onto the pipe. I will definitely inquire on what to do. Changing the pipe wouldn't be my favorite solution as it costs a bunch of money and the cat was fitted with the front pipe and exhaust under the car, and if the front pipe flange does not sit in the OEM location the cat will need to be refit for any other pipe to work. It also usually doesn't need a brand name or something like that, but more something like a part number. Usually for exhaust parts, on silencers and cat units specifically, there is a badge that reads the certificate number that belongs to these exhaust parts under EU regulation. You get these numbers after you put a part or group of parts through the tedious testing according to EU vehicle legislation and they pass. You can find these "part numbers" on various parts throughout a EU vehicle. On windows, headlights, engine parts, seat belts and so on. All these parts have gone through standardized testing and acquired a so called ECE or EG Certificate that makes them legal to use by themselves in all countries that adhere to these standards. You can also not alter these parts in any way, if you do they become illegal. An example for stampings on an exterior lighting part, the people who need to know can find the documentation for this unit in a database. I do not know what all the standards and so on mean.
    • If that was the case I suppose you could call it "Mein's" brand....  ... I'll see myself out... 😅
×
×
  • Create New...