Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

Purchased my 95 R33 recently and I bought it knowing the blower motor did not work. Pulled the dash a couple of days ago, which was pretty fun actually, and turns out I didn't have to go that far as the issue was quite clear once I got close.  Some previous owner cut the wire to the harness all together!  Any ideas why someone would do something this dumb? I should be able to rewire it pretty easily, but the fact that it's been cut like this scares me quite a bit.

 

Included pic of dash removed just for giggles. I'll likely create a separate post for the other scary looking things I've discovered. There are some extra wires around. Some are for what appears to be an aftermarket alarm or key fob setup and maybe aftermarket stereo stuff...?

20210814_115400.jpg

20210813_155511.jpg

Link to comment
https://www.sau.com.au/forums/topic/482738-r33-gtr-hvac-blower-motor-issue/
Share on other sites

Might have been a turbo timer....big 'go fast' must have in the early 2000's 😂

At least you have the chance to have a good look at what lies beneath while the dash is out, hope all your fixes are as easy for you as the cut wire one.

Sadly fixing the wire and plugging it back in didn't work. Ordered another blower motor from the UK and a brand new fan controller amp. The motor didn't turn on either, so hoping the fan controller amp does the trick. It arrives tomorrow. The confusing part is that there is definitely power getting to the motor.

On 8/22/2021 at 7:19 PM, GTSBoy said:

Most loads are switched on the earth side, meaning that there is usually power at the load itself.

Interesting. Good to know. Again, praying this stupid fan controller amp does the trick. Any good way to test the earth side?

On 8/23/2021 at 9:59 AM, BlueBOB said:

Any good way to test the earth side?

Yuh. Get the wiring diagram and work out where the power comes from and what has to work (wiring, switches, relays) between the +ve supply, the load and the -ve rail for the motor to switch on. If you can prove to yourself with basic electrical diagnostic techniques (checking for continuity, measuring voltage at different points in the circuit, confirming that switches open and close when required, etc) you will either find what is not allowing it to work or you will eventually come down to the motor/load being dead.

  • Like 1

All fixed!  Obviously the wiring harness being cut was a problem. With that repaired, I was able to test it was getting power as previously noted, but still no fan.  Based on research I had ordered a used blower motor from the UK off ebay and a brand new Fan Control Amplifier which a number of posts claimed to be the sneaky issue (ebay link to part below).

 

JDM Nissan R32 Skyline S13 Silvia Blower Fan Control Amplifier 27761-01U00

 

I received the blower motor first and when I plugged it in, still no fan.  The amp arrived a few days later and that was the culprit.  The interesting thing is that this part is the part number for the R32, however one post I read indicated that the R32 part would fit in an R33 and I had all kinds of trouble finding the R33 part number for some reason.  This part fixed the issue immediately and all is well. I also had to repair my actuator motor like so many others have to do.  Now I get to have the fun of putting the dash back together.

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • They see me rollin' they hatin'....... Took me most of the day to make the necessary mods to the mounts to make them fit the car.  Fortunately I was able to just use the mounts that came with the rotisserie. The rear ones are really secure, the front I feel i might reinforce a bit more as it doesn't seem like enough attachment to the vehicle. I'm sure it's fine but better to be safe than (extremely...) sorry.  I drilled and tapped thread into additional M12 holes to each car mount where it attaches to the rotisserie as an extra fail-safe. Without them the side to side movement is just restricted by the allen head pinch bolts, nothing actually goes though the beam. Does now! I still need to adjust the rotisserie to get the car centred in terms of centre of gravity. If it's too high or too low relative to the rotational centre line of the car, it will be like a turtle and roll onto its back or as it currently sits, I dont think I'd be able to rotate it as it sits as it needs to lift the whole car up as it rotates. Ain't happening... I'm going to be nervous as hell the first time I go to spin it on its side...    
    • Oh yes done this when the window started flopping around.  Turns out the guides that run along the rail chanel had crumbed way. Took off the door card and pulled out the window mech, then the window, which you have to pull out through the top. As said unbolt the guide rail and don't spend 30 minutes getting frustrated trying to find a way to slide it out upwards cause that don't frigging work. Drop it down and out through the door hole. All I did to repair it was slice some 10mm clear plastic tube, vertically, then screw it to the guide rail both sides. This tubing rolls inward on both sides and leaves a gap wide enough to hold the window. To finish all I did was lube the plastic tube with olive oil and Bob's your uncle . . . well if he has the operation he can be your Aunt ! !  10 bucks in plastic tube and another 5 minute job done again . . . . YEH BULLSH#T ! My love for Skylines knows no bounds !
    • So was there a solution to this problem? I’m having this issue now. 
    • not expensive, just irreplaceable if you don't go sub 60 at wakie in that thing people will start talking
    • I haven't replaced that, but I have had the doors apart on the r32 a couple of times The door skin will be held on by a combination of clips and bolts, just take it slowly and make sure all the sneaky hidden bolts are out Once the skin is off you should be able to pop that piece off pretty easily, looks like there are only 2 bolts holding it on
×
×
  • Create New...