Jump to content
SAU Community

Recommended Posts

How awesome is this. Good work. I love the carbon mufflers.

About the welding, what gas are you using? You obviously know what you are up to...but if you are using a TIG then with an Argon shielding and purge gas you get an even neater weld with less heat input. Get some Varigon shieldign gas and use an argon purge and the weld is even better again as the gas burns hotter and stops oxidation of the weld pool.

Apologies if you know this already, but my welding fetish is only matched by my brake fetish

...oh and not on twin setup like this from Japan, do they ever run a balance pipe in the exhaust like all the Corvette (ie big V8s) do?

had to fit a couple of hotdogs in it to shut it up a bit.....no stainless ones in stock so i fitted steel ones to see if they would work how i wanted..... and they do so i have ordered some stainless ones...the steel ones were 70 each the stainless 150.....i figured i could afford to risk 140 to see if it works other than finding out 300 worth of dogs were going in the bin....

so you decided against having the mufflers angled? It looks as you went to quite alot of effort to get both tips pointing straight back. I mean maybe it could have been easier to have them angled as now one of the pipes has a 90 degree bend where it loops around the diff. Maybe not so good for flow...

the under body wont allow it(spare wheel well,hangers no clearance to run the pipe under the suspension craddle cant fit the diffuser back on if its done any other way...and the list goes on...)and its not what i wanted anyway....

the under body wont allow it(spare wheel well,hangers no clearance to run the pipe under the suspension craddle cant fit the diffuser back on if its done any other way...and the list goes on...)and its not what i wanted anyway....

oh i forgot the diffuser, i guess your right then :)

As long as it sound good :)

Not sure what you mean by 350Z style..... I will post more pics of the system as it get fabricated....i think we should wait untill you get your car...then we will do the match up as i am not to keen on playing with same one elses bumpers(neither would they be :D)...dont worry too much about it chinny...we will get them to fit nicely

350Z Style? like M3, pipes both side of the car, but from your pics i know what you're doing now.

Whatever you think is best, i did have someone willing to lend their R34 (hi Bass Junky!) but you'd still rather use my car?

ok, so you think it can be done then? Cos the initial line up was just too see if it was plausible and i'd go and get a GTR rear bar after if you thought it could be done? Because if you think it's the way to go (rather than try and mould something) i'll go and get the rear bar from someone who has one here in Melbourne.

cheers.

  • 2 months later...

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now


  • Similar Content

  • Latest Posts

    • Ok guess I can rule out the battery, probably even the starter and alternator (maybe) as well. I'm gonna clean those leads and see what happens if it's still shit I might take it to an auto electrician. Unless the immobiliser is that f**king heavy, but it shouldn't be.  If I start the car every day, starts up perfectly never an issue.
    • Anything above ~9.5V is acceptable. The higher the better, but it will almost always drop to at least 10.5V, if not lower, even with a new big battery and everything else being good. 9.76 is not a concern. If it goes below 9, you'd be sure that there's a problem with either the battery or the connections.
    • It's new almost. Under a year old i think and I've tested it twice at supercheap
    • Glue the head from a Pez dispenser on it. Goofy, or Winnie the Pooh, so something.
    • Adjusting the idle screw is usually (emphasis on usually) just covering up deeper issues. Stuff like the cold start valve not closing properly. Throttle shaft seals on the way out. Coolant temp sensors getting out of spec. Coolant temp sensors especially can be a bear to diagnose because they can fail subtly. My dad just spent weeks chasing down his high idle. He cleaned the coolant temp sensor and everything but the resistance curve just drifts over time and if it's been 20+ years they also get super slow to respond as well. Has a massive effect on fuel economy as if it's off the ECU is going to run richer and command high idle for far longer than it should otherwise.
×
×
  • Create New...